Jump to content
Please check your junk folder for registration emails ×

BMCracer

General Member
  • Posts

    164
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

Everything posted by BMCracer

  1. No I haven't, but when i first plugged the cable in it said it was setting it up, then said it was ready to use. But I'll get the drivers anyway to make sure. Thanks @ajayel, you and @Andymac are a massive help.
  2. Thanks for this. I had the cars_def.xml and ecu_defs.xml files in the correct place, but had to do the rest of what you said. Will go out to the car shortly and try it Ok so it still doesn't work. Now when I open up RR Logger, it opens up ok and there are no notifications that something isn't confugured / found / whatever. When the laptop is plugged into the Tactrix, it still says "cannot send ecu init, checek cable is plugged in and ignition on." It is plugged in, and the engine is running.So I unplugged it, closed RR, plugged cable back in, opened RR again, still the same. I was expecting a window to open about selecting the car type so RR would know what it was talking to? I've had a look at the tabs at the top but can't see anything obviously wrong there, but I've barely got a clue about this so it might wrong I just don't know haha
  3. Loosing my s*** here trying to get Romraider to work. Downloaded RR, got the ecu_defs xml and dtd files, got the cars_def xml and dtd files, got the logger_v350 files. Every time I open it up ( RR logger, not RR logger fullscreen or RR logger touchscreen or RR ECU editor ), it comes up with "cars definition file not found. Go online to download the latest definition file?" I click "no" because i have it. Then it comes up "missing cars_def.xml file from the installation or profiles or definitions directory. Dyno feature will not be available until this file is present." I click OK. Then it comes up "Logger definition not configured. Go online to download the latest definition file?" I click no. Then it comes up "The logger definition file needs to be configured before connecting to the ECU. Menu: Settings > Logger Defintion Location ... Once configured restart the Logger application. I click OK Then RR opens so I can go to settings > Logger Defintion, but then what?? If it's going to be easier to explain it over the phone, can someone who knows what they are doing please PM me their phone number and a time that suits you and I will ring you. Thanks heaps.
  4. I wasn't going to use the imperial one. But what is the difference between the metric one and the "standard" ( logger_std_en_v350 ) one?
  5. OK well I just downloaded Romraider. Do I use logger_std_en_v350 or logger_METRIC_EN_v350 when I get to that point?
  6. OK. I have laptop but will have to work out RomRaider.
  7. So now I'm reading on another forum that the AVCSkicks in around 1500-2000rpm. Is that correct? In which case do I need to do anothe rlog at more than 2000rpm to make sure it is ( should be ) fully "on"? OK which one of those is easier to do?😀 I miss my old MG with 2 valve pushrod, carburettor and points distributor. So easy to fix!!!
  8. There are no engine codes up, and no abnormal noises from anywhere. There is a small oil leak from somewhere around the front cover, uses maybe 100ml oil every 5000km, but it may burn a bit of that 100ml too who knows. I use Magnatec 10W40 semi synthetic every 5000km with genuine filters. Engine is nearly at 170,000km What controls the AVCS - a sensor? Or what gives the reading to the ECU? The whole time I've had the Nexus in there, the only codes it's ever had were the ones I started this thread about. The car runs the same as the day I bought it, nearly 3 years ago, so whatever the problem is, is not new, and it is also unnoticable without the Nexus / BtSsm. It you don't have that displaying everything, you'd never know there was a problem. I degreased the whole engine and bay a not that long ago, so I'll pull the bottom cover off one day and see if I can see where the leak is coming from.
  9. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1QeE3yrW1sz-GvMLTuviXYc93BM6DAM0J/view?usp=sharing https://drive.google.com/file/d/1R1EBtgCEJt8kW9WSkuSxzW7rFlzWKBdG/view?usp=sharing
  10. I did the log files today, but how do I attach them, or how do I view them? They are CSV files.
  11. Good work. Make the POS pay, you deserve it.
  12. No still haven't figured it out. IAM has been at 0.064 the last week or so. Going to check the plastic airbox thing at the back of the engine as they seem to have a tendancy to crank on the H6's. But other than that i dunno. Regarding what @AndyMack said about someone else having similar problems and a shot alternator, I have BtSsm running all the time, and I have the battery voltage as one of the displays, and it's always around the high 13's so I don't think that is the problem?
  13. Last weekend I changed the parklight lamps to Narva LED 6000K ones, because one was blown and the standard yellow ones gave me the s***s next to nice white HID main lights. The 6000K is slightly off compared to the HID's, but close enough in the mean time. The LED lights up the parking light lens a lot better, the light flows around the housing shape a lot better, and actually looks like a weak DRL. So, the question is, do T10 / W5W wedge lamps in more than 5 watts exist ( I haven't found any yet but might not be looking in the right places ), and would they do any damage ( wiring, melt the housing etc )? The Narva ones I have in now say they use 80% less power than a comparable traditional lamp, so even a 21W LED lamp would use less power than the original standard lamp. A 21W would light up the parker housing even better, and could probably then be used as a DRL, without being bright enough to cause a problem at night with the main lights on. Which would save me pulling my lights to bits to try and fit some ebay special LED tube light thing. My car has the self levelling lights with washers etc, seems like a lot of chances to screw something up then mega bucks for a replacement.
  14. I got one from Kenian a while ago ( over a year ), and it's primo. Took a bit of work and more bolts than supplied to get it installed to sit nice and tight to the bottom of the bumper, but once done it's rock solid and looks the same as the mega-dollar STI ones ( minus the little sticker in the centre ). Very happy with it, so if he can get more the same, they'd be good to get.
  15. Totally standard engine. I'ts got a Cosworth Filter, new plugs 9000kms ago ( engine is at 169,000 ), a run Castrol 10W40 oil in it ( changed with filter every 5000km ), and now run it on 98 ( usually Mobil ) - I ran it on 95 for about the first 18 months I had it ( in NZ ). I took the car to Perth with me last year, at 160,000km. 98 petrol over here is $1.49/litre so 98 over here costs me less than 91 in NZ, and as a bonus I get better economy over here because Perth is flatter than Auckland 😁 I bought the car in Whangarei with 139,000km on it. It's NZ new with 5EAT gearbox. I don't drive it hard ( maybe it needs an "Italian" tuneup?? ). I can't say I've ever been impressed with the low down torque, for a 3L 6 cylinder I thought it should go better. And the gearbox shifting is horrible, mechanically it's fine but whatever tells it what gear to be in and when to change is terrible. Just as well it has paddles.......... Anyway, it started using more fuel recently, and I found 2 error codes using BtSsm - IAT too high and MAF too low ( I think, maybe I got that around the wrong way ). So I reset the ECU at the lights, the faults cleared, and the fuel consumption came back down. I took some logs I think the first one is before I reset the ECU and the rest after. thumbnail_BtSsm_LV_20200203_1508 by JAFA851, on Flickr thumbnail_BtSsm_LV_20200203_1513 by JAFA851, on Flickr thumbnail_BtSsm_LV_20200203_1525 by JAFA851, on Flickr thumbnail_BtSsm_LV_20200203_1544 by JAFA851, on Flickr When running BtSsm in the car, the IAT is always very low, the highest I have ever seen it is 0.500, but most of the time it's around 0.125 or lower, quite often it sits at 0.000 I would like to get this sorted out, and increase the lower end torque for round town driving. Not interested in HP, it's got more than enough, but more low end torque and better fuel economy would be nice. Been reading about the Raptor headers, apparently those and tune make a lot of difference, but then I just read a thread on here someone said not worth the money? Dunno any tuners over here, and am partial to having a back and forth with an E tuner to get it properly right over several fine tunes, rather than one blast on the dyno which isn't totally like the real world.
  16. I'm going to put this here because it's all part of the Nexus install problems, so people can hopefully find several answers in the one place. Maybe a Mod can change the title to "Nexus 7 Fixed Install Problems"? It's been going well since the above posts. Then the car started using a little more petrol than usual, used to be around 10.6/100, but it went up to 11.4/100, for no apparent reason. So I looked at the codes, and it had 2 error codes up ( I will start a new topic for this in the appropriate section ) IAT too low MAF too high I forget the code numbers, and I may have got the too high and too low around the wrong way, but anyway. So I reset the ECU while sitting at a set of traffic lights, then continued on. The fuel consumption went back down to 10.6/100, and the car *seemed* to have a bit more go. I did some logs before and after I reset the ECU to see how much timing it was pulling out. When I got home and turned the Nexus Wifi on to connect to the house wifi, so I could email the logs to my PC so I can post them and hopefully get some advice on the problem and what to do about it. Ever since then, the Nexus has s*** itself ( again ), more specifically the FI mode, and it won't sleep when the power is cut to it etc etc. I've had this several times before, and the only thing that seems to fix it is a new USB OTG Y cable. So I took the cable to work and ground off all the rubber insulation around the 3 plugs, and then cut all the other bonding stuff away, hoping to find a microchip that is fried. But no, there is nothing but the wires going between the plugs. So I've put another ( I started buying them 5 at a time ) new USB OTG Y cable on the Nexus now, and it magically works again. I'm guessing as long as I don't connect the Nexus to the wifi, it'll be good. So I've got 2 questions. 1/ How do you brick a cable that is only copper wire and plastic insulation? 2/ How else do you connect to the internet? For maps etc? Do you use your phone as a hotspot and connect the Nexus to your phone, and somehow having your phone between the Nexus and the internet provides some kind of barrier that stops the internet bricking the OTG Y cable? And then bluetooth the files from the Nexus to your phone, then you can email the files from your phone to whoever / wherever?
  17. Couldn't have done it without all your help!! Honestly, the thing would have been thrown on the driveway then had a sledgehammer put through it. But happy days now finally, touch wood.
  18. OK, Gripless is the winner. Pulled the ILM fuse and sure enough it was blown. Replaced it, and now the stereo back lighting, hazard switch back lighting, headlight symbol, gear lever position ( auto ) back lighting, SI Drive controller, and number-plate lights all work again. Thanks guys.
  19. No, because my car doesn't have driving lights, or drl's. No auto lights either. The symbol always used to come on when you turn the park lights / head lights on. Now nothing.
  20. So using the links from Andy_Mac, and Pharnos' instructions on LegacyGT.com, I got that ADB and Fastboot installed on my PC, and sorted out the off-mode-charge setting. Pharnos, mate you're a bloody legend for working that out and posting it up, and Andy_Mac, you're a legend too for posting up the links to it. Thanks heaps guys, that made my night tonight 😊
  21. OK so maybe the bulb didn't die. Because also the stereo back lighting doesn't work, and the hazard switch back lighting doesn't work either. I read on Subaruoutback.org someone had a similar problem, and was directed to fuse #16. I'm guessing fuse #16 is under the dash, but when I pulled the cover off, the fuses aren't labelled with numbers, and none of them are labelled with anything I would relate to the hazard switch / stereo / headlight symbol. The only one remotely close is labelled "Audio NAVI", but that fuse was ok ( 20A ). So does anyone know which fuse it could be, or have a wiring diagram for a 2007 Legacy? Some fuses are labelled "I L M", "M I R" ( mirror? ), "D-OP +B", 'Lamp IG", "I G 1", "I G 2", "A/C I G", " Meter I G", so many "I G"s whatever they are!!! Otherwise I guess I'll just start pulling fuses until I hopefully find it?
  22. Thanks a lot Andy_Mac, I will have a go at this tonight.
  23. OK so yes I am a retard. And I know it. I went to here Pharnos' thread https://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5478955&postcount=32 as linked by Andy Mac and then I went here https://developer.android.com/studio/releases/platform-tools.html and downloaded the SDK Platform-Tools for Windows. Next I plugged the Nexus into my PC, and turned the Nexus on by pushing the power and volume - buttons together to enter Bootlogger mode. Moved to option "Restart Bootloader" press power button, it did it. But it comes back to the same screen. Where / how do I type in the code " adb reboot bootloader " to get to the next screen so I can change the off-mode-charge from yes to no?
  • Who's Online   0 Members, 0 Anonymous, 66 Guests (See full list)

    • There are no registered users currently online
×
×
  • Create New...