ajayel

@Outback Ash my EZ30 has the engine coolant temperature (ECT) sensor front of the passenger side cylinder head but yours could be different. There's a section for each engine in the factory service manuals with component diagrams, specs & install instructions. Also covers how radiator fan speed is set by the computer depending on ECT, vehicle speed and a few other params. You can find all of the Suby service manuals over @ https://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/. Sounds like a interesting workshop there bro!

If the fans don't run at all BP leggies have a built in test to force them to spin up. this could identify the ECT sensor prob @Technikhaus described. 1) with the key out 2) pull up the passenger side floor carpet from under the plastic trim roughly RHS of the glove-box. 3) rummage around behind the carpet. should find two loose green electrical connectors, 4) there's not too much free cable but join the connectors together 5) Turn the key until the dashboard lights up 6) You should hear the radiator fans spinning up, on and off every 20 seconds (guessing from memory here) but don't worry if the check engine light flashes 7) maybe leave it for 5 mins - other tests are also cycled you might hear clicks from various relays or pumps 8 ) turn the car off, disconnect the green connectors

Any oil or coolant clinging to the engine or radiator ? Might need to remove a plastic cover underneath the engine to look, tho I guess the workshop would/should have reported leaks. Do you know if the radiator & radiator cap are original or replaced ? Does the temp gauge climb or rad fans eventually activate if you watch the car whilst parked for a 1/2 hour with the engine running ? Sorry so many q's

With our cars the thermostat is fully open @ 95C, couple of images from the factory service manual below. Seems the dashboard temp gauge specs are horizontal approx' 88C to 102C. Normal temp is a good question as there's not much log data shared online for the 3.0's but after reading around my guess (and it is just that) perhaps around 90C to 96C for Auckland with the dash gauge one tick below the horizontal. Maybe plus a few C for heat soak at traffic lights. Plenty of people report that the dash gauge can clock-face 9 up to 11 so right up to the 110's with hills, hot weather or towing but I guess each car would be slightly different. It would be great if other H6 owners had data to share on this. I don't reckon small spikes of temperate are critical especially when it's managed back down but when my radiator developed a small leak the amount of time the temps basked in the 99 or 100C range increased more and more.

haha yeah it would relearn fuel trims and knock cells after a few drive cycles, you can watch these on BtSSM or RomRaider learning view. a change in airflow caused by a new AVCS solenoid would affect the long term fuel trims and lean spots cause knock (FBKC, FLKC on the logs which contribute to IAM) so I would reset it on my car. is yours auto or MT ? my 5EAT auto doesn't like the engine (ECU) to be reset in RomRaider unless the transmission computer (TCU) is also reset in RR. or just disconnect the battery whilst you do the change. did you say you were in Perth , hows the temperature there or was the car loaded or towing ? one of your logs had coolant temp up at 98C on a short drive. it's not real high but getting there, worth keeping an eye on these aluminium engines. mine got up to 99, 100 in auckland summer when the original radiator just started to leak , replaced the rad, t-stat and coolant and it's dropped back 4 or 5 degrees .

maybe pick a part or the wreckers ?

All good @BMCRacer I was looking at AVCS/AVLS anyway on my 3.0R also not driving great, so it's neat there was a problem pattern on your car and that's its not too uncommon. Please let us know if the new solenoid affects IAM or drive-ability cheers

Definitely

awesome the VVT osci llation moved from LHS to the RHS so if you replace the RHS with new the engine will be happier, part #10921AA050 approx' USD$65 online.

Yeah mate you got the location, here's pics on my car, to work RHS I removed the front part of the air intake, the valve is kind of underneath the elbow in the power steering suction hose. Charts were done in Microsoft Excel but Google can also do this free with the files you uploaded, try the green 'Open in Google Sheets' when the shared CSV file opens, then click Chart under the Insert menu.

Looks like valve lift is behaving but variable timing is still oscillating left hand side. As @Andy_Mac suggested maybe swap the front timing solenoid valves between left & right, run another log and see if the oscillation is then recorded on the right hand side with good data on the left which would identify a dud solenoid. I did this swap this morning as I'm chasing a different prob, took around 10 mins and a 10mm socket.

Have you used the Tactrix cable or the EcuFlash app on that computer before? If not might be it's drivers need installing from https://www.tactrix.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=category&layout=blog&id=38&Itemid=61.

Hopefully this should be enough to start RR without error messages. If you don't see the c:\Program FIles (x86)\RomRaider\ folder no worries just use c:\Program Files\RomRaider\. You'll need to download 3 files from their website but sounds like you got this; ecu_defs.xml cars_def.xml logger_METRIC_EN_v350.xml Open the RomRaider install directory: C:\Program Files (x86)\RomRaider\ Put cars_def.xml into this folder Put ecu_defs.xml into this folder Open your normal Documents folder via the shortcut on Windows Explorer (or C:\Users\<yourname>\Documents\) Put logger_METRIC_EN_v350.xml into this folder Start RR ECU Editor Click ECU definitions, then Definition File Manager Click Add to select ecu_defs.xml from your RR install direction and Save Close the ECU editor Start RR Logger Click Settings then Logger Definition Location Select logger_METRIC_EN_v350.xml from your Documents folder and then OK Close the Logger Open RR Logger again

The 2005 on 3.0's have AVLS (variable lift) & AVCS (variable timing) with solenoids for each. Are the solenoid valves at the rear of the engine for variable lift or timing ? Was reading somewhere that the solenoids front of the heads are for variable timing (makes sense with the cam sprockets being there) with the lift system at the back. I've not worked on these but catalogues and manuals use similar terminology such as oil switching for lift and oil control for timing but often seems mixed up. If someone has clarification would be good to know.

IAM 0.5 means the ECU is recently reset, IAM 0.0 means it is building up data to work with but 0.062 is real low. The first thing to look at is your AVCS aka VVT as the left hand side is very erratic and would definitely cause probs, should be a graph attached. There are further AVCS diagnosis parameters that can help I'll find a list of those (edit: any labelled OCV or oil control valve). Any new check engine codes, oil leaks or noises on the engine passenger side ?

Can you grab a drive log file with BtSSM with the fields below where poss' ? They mightn't be named the same in BtSSM. It may (or not) hold some clues but feel free to post the data file back here. Time (msec) A/F Correction #1 (%) A/F Correction #2 (%) A/F Learning #1 (%) A/F Learning #2 (%) A/F Sensor #1 (AFR) A/F Sensor #2 (AFR) Accelerator Pedal Angle (%) Coolant Temperature (C) Engine Load (g/rev) Engine Speed (rpm) Feedback Knock Correction (degrees) Fine Learning Knock Correction (degrees) Gear (Calculated) (position) IAM (multiplier) Ignition Total Timing (degrees) Injector Duty Cycle (%) Intake Air Temperature (C) Intake VVT Advance Angle Left (degrees) Intake VVT Advance Angle Right (degrees) Knock Correction Advance (IAM only) (degrees) Manifold Absolute Pressure (psi) Mass Airflow (g/s) Mass Airflow Sensor Voltage (V) Oil Temperature (C) Throttle Motor Voltage (V) Throttle Opening Angle (%) Vehicle Speed (km/h) Feedback Knock Correction (degrees)

hi @BMCracer did you figure out what was happening with this car, did the IAM & MAF ranges recover or the engine need any work done ?

The dev edition of FreeSSM now works with Tactrix OpenPort 2.0 and shows ECU CC info on my '07 3.0R. Not sure if it will talk to newer cars such as your '11 but might be worth a go as you have Tactrix.

I don't think the SSM3 user manual mentions programmable modules, found a user manual for the '11 STI that didn't include cameras at least just with a quick PDF search. Wish I could get SSM3 running DIY style but needs an expensive SDI/DST-I or VX-DIAG adaptor to play. Downloaded SSM4 will work with Tactrix Openport for later model years, this ebay dude reckons SSM4 works Impreza/Crosstrek 2012-2020 & WRX 2015 – 2020. This post reckons Crowe Motorsports in CHCH have experience with retro fitting CC . There's a component diagram page 2983 of the '11 STI Factory Service Manual do your cars have the neutral or clutch sensor switches ? Diagram should be attached

Not necessarily, the ECU mightn't report on that module until it's enabled. Wish I could remember if my car reported these switches to romraider prior to installing but don't recall. However the dashboard cruise light was dead (even at lamp test) until I added the steering wheel CC buttons and then cruise only worked for me after wiring the 4 pin stop/brake switch back to the ECU. It's more interesting that your wiring harness already has the 4 pin stop/brake light switch installed so it could be just the steering wheel controls required. Can you see an unlit cruise lamp on your dashboard ? EDIT: My '07 doesn't have a camera but I wonder if newer models such as your '11 expect the EyeSight camera to be installed for CC

Only reason I used FreeSSM when installing cruise was to check my ECU supported cruise control, for Legacy/Outback only certain trim levels include support for cruise. If you connect RomRaider logger and look at the Switches tab are the state of any of the cruise buttons shown ? This could be a clue that the ECU knows about CC.

about 120 kiwi. still cheaper than wingers eh

Cheers, I just replaced a new aftermarket Repco axle with genuine from partsouq.com. The Repco was not good as you said, crazy vibration idling in Drive and at other speeds. Fortuneately our local mechanic refunded the Repco axle.

great thanks. is it best practice or necessary to do axles in pairs ?

hey where'd you buy axles in NZ ? i've seen on the US forums there's a whole thing about choosing from re-manufactured, OEM and some aftermarkets not being so good cheers andy