ajayel

i replaced the japan navi on a BPE facelift with a cubby & clock from strongs wreckers. no probs asides the socket tab on the back of the clock was broken first time around so it'd sometimes lose power, got that replaced. as others have said some have a bright button was removed in later years and the mode was for a/c, fuel economy displays which are on the dash anyway. mine has a set button that does not much. figured that taking out all the navi bits in the dash, under the seats and cabling was around 10 kg's all up.

gotta JDM H6 BPE that needs injectors. JDM part number is 16611AA660 at winger, part souq & EPC data based on on the chassis number. this is different to part number 16611AA700 on english speaking subaru sites and all other online stores. i wouldn't mind using the denso replacement 297-0010 which is advertised widely in the USA but because the JDM part is different got me thinking it might not be compatible with flow rates, resistance etc. what's the difference please, if any between the JDM & USA injectors ? apart from the physical dimensions being the same i did't find data sheets listed anywhere so far.

nah mate my generic vag-com cable works with FreeSSM and RomRaider work on Windows 10 - if it doesn't work install 32-bit java and check the cable drivers are installed under device manager.

yeah got the GX204JE as well, FM is often crappy with the band expander, i put in GROM-BT3 bluetooth adapter thingy that plugs into the CD changer socket at the back of HU. BT connects reliably and plays saved music or internet radio over bluetooth . can answer incoming calls with the steering wheel radio controls. just for fun recently ordered some second hand mini discs from ebay for this ole HU haha

cool the ECU is back from the states and the car on the road. Tactrix are a seriously awesome company. definitely a newbie f*up though would be sweet if the software showed do not turn the car off as it knows when the flash failed. wonder if anyone in NZ has built the Tactrix specified SHBootMode circuit board for ECU recovery

https://www.amayama.com/en have stock in japan and UAE

thinking about getting a backup ECU where all 4 codes on the label match exactly ($80 +shipping at overseas wreckers). just in case i get an ECU flash wrong (again!) or something else ECU related goes wrong, shouldn't happens anyways was thinkin car is 07 facelift BPE outback with keyless entry and button start is it possible to switch ECU's and reprogram the key ? or does the immobilizer system stuff up that scenario haven't tried key programming there's a page @ How to Program Your Newer Subaru Keyless Entry Fob/ Remote | TheDIYGuy

cheers 4 responses - ECU is about to go on a holiday to San Francisco. Edward (west_minist & XRT ) recommended Tatrix as well. This morning phoned Tatrix US, spoke to Mike who is a legend, loves NZ and offered to fix and return post the day it arrives. two months in owning my first Subaru I broke it good! .

Was downloading a XRT ROM to my 07 BP with the tatrix cable when something went wrong with connection or computer so only half flashed the file. Now the car won’t start and Japanese writing on dash info display. Can’t access the ECU now with freessm rom raider or ecu flash. Will have to tow it somewhere in Auckland if you know anyone who can fix this pls ?

inspired by the people on club sub and reading the suby docs i figured DIY this weekend and share the notes before forgetting. mine is the face-lift 07 auto trans H6 3.0R with engine push start button. not all loom wiring is pre made for these model years. The purpose here is to complete the cruise control system by installing cruise buttons and parts to supply a brake switch signal to ECU pin B20. This is my write up, don’t do anything to stuff up your vehicle or anyone's safety and if you are not sure stop. steps are in sequence each dependent on the previous. 1. Have the correct service manual for your vehicle @ http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/Legacy_Outback/ or https://techinfo.subaru.com. Print and read the relevant pages in the subaru service manual because there is important information and safety info in the 5,000+ page service manual that is not detailed here. 2. Most of these steps required the battery to be disconnected. 3. Check cruise and set lights are available on your dashboard, even if they are never lit. We only noticed ours when the sun was right behind us. 4. Check cruise is supported by the ECU. I used FreeSSM with a cheap vagcom cable and the engine diagnostics page shows integrated cruise control on the left hand side of the window. Not all models support cruise apparently higher spec models are more likely to 5. Check you have a 2 pin brake light switch and there is not a 4 pin loom plug tucked away in the loom near your brake light switch. if there is you are lucky and subaru have saved you a heap of time, just replace the switch with a 4 pin and ignore all of the new wiring steps. 6. Use the service manual to identify and check the ECU under the front passenger foot well carpet that ; 1. C25 (clutch pedal pin) is wired green yellow and tied 12v with ignition on (for auto transmission models), subaru included this wiring for us 2. note/ you could probably easily pick up the ignition 12v from elsewhere if you wanted to but i wanted to test C25 was working per the wiring diagram. 3. B20 (brake switch) is not wired. Subaru didn’t include this for us as they did for some previous model years. 7. Check which cruise controls are required. Similar legacy/outbacks to mine have steering wheel cruise control 8. Go to the wreckers and pick up; 1. Steering wheel cruise control buttons 2. 4 pin stop light & brake switch 3. 4 pin stop light & brake loom connector with some wiring 4. ECU plug with 5cm+ wires attached (computer under passenger footwell). This is so we can take a pin out to use on B20 9. not familiar with these components? practise removing ECU pins and also the connectors from the brake switch loom connector as this skills will be required later on. I didn't this before so asked for help @ https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/48623/how-to-remove-pin-from-subaru-ecu-plug 10. Install steering wheel buttons which required removing the wheel to unscrew the buttons panels from the rear side. My SW buttons were stereo controls on the left and a blank plate on the right. Put it back together now the cruise dash light is shown during lamp test when the ignition is turned on. The set button on the steering wheel won’t do anything. May get a DTC whilst driving when the computer realises the other circuits are not ready. 11. now need to wire the normally closed contact on the 4 pin brake switch to feed ECU pin B20. I took the ignition power from C25 (spliced a couple inches back from the ECU plug) up behind the foot well, above the stereo and over to the brake switch location. The return came back along the same path to the ecu’s pin B20. This was time consuming because removed most of the front trim panels to follow existing loom paths. Used solder and heat shrink on all splices/joins and a PPS cable sleeve. Don’t work on ECU cables with their plugs connected to the brain. At first I couldn’t get the new ecu pin into B20 but gently did it to click in with the crimped side facing downward. 12. Replace 2 pin brake switch loom connector with the 4 pin. Used a small flat jewelers screwdriver to pop out the white/blue and brown/white wires from the new 4 pin loom connector as loom already had those. Popped out same colour wires from the 2 pin and moved them over to the four pin. Connected in the new cables from previous step. See pix above from @sobanoodle that yellow & green yellow wires are the new ones. Your green (or equivalent) goes from pin 1 on the connector to ECU B20 and your green/yellow from pin 4 on the connector to the ECU C25 splice. 13. Replace 2 pin brake switch with the 4 pin brake switch using a 12 mm spanner and check it is in the correct position. I used a multi meter to check the contacts changed state when the brake pedal was depressed even slightly (had to adjust the switch position, don't wanna be rear ended with no brake lights). It was good to test from the ECU side as well to check the new circuit is working end to end. 14. Put back enough of the panels and connectors to have the car driveable and test the engine starts with no warning lights. 15. didn’t do anything else to enable cruise because the computer detected all of the signals were in place. it automatically enabled and made the cruise available 16. go drive to test the new cruise control, it worked - the cruise function and dash lights operate nicely If I did this over would probably use another source of ignition 12V rather than have to splice the C25 wire. anyways done now and uses same circuit, fuses and pins described in the service manual for the factory cruise.

took a look at my ECU today (it's labeled ED) pins and cable colours match the diagram. pin 20 on B135 is vacant. the clutch pin 25 on B136 is wired which is sweet. just need to run ignition 12v through the new brake switch back to B135 pin 20. picked up a similar ECU connector from strongs to figure out getting a pin out and in. whats the secret to de-pinning these or just hacksaw one out of a spare connector? andy

from this diagram ECM pin B20 wants 12v when ignition on and the brake pedal released for CC to work. there is a pin C25 tied to ignition 12v on the AT that is used for clutch switch on the MT. hopefully C25 is wired to steal 12v for the new contacts on the 4 pin brake switch (reminds me to pick up a matching loom plug). otherwise will have to find that elsewhere and maybe also plumb back to C25. i'll have a look at the JDM ECU next weekend and check my cable colours and pin outs match the diagram.

Added the steering wheel controls (from Strongs) to 2007 JDM facelift outback 3.0r (button start). The dash now shows cruise and set lights during the light test. Picked up the 4 pin brake switch but pretty sure the loom only has a 2 wire socket. Tried it with the stock 2 pin anyway the dash cruise light is toggled with the button but set doesn't work. got a DTC 61 (Malfunction in the stop light & brake switch is detected) on FreeSSM's cruise section. read the thread here seems some more wiring is required prolly pass on DIY. anyone got an auckland business that could help out ? ps/ how to remove the OBD II port to get driver footwell trim out of the way ? nearly broke the thing before giving up