Loren

do you mean the end of the brake lines?

squeaking probably the bearing... but if it's very bad then the hub could be shagged... and boon said even the axle stub.

Does anyone have any v5/6 sti (preferably type r/ra) wiring diagrams... or know where to look these days? My dash is no longer working after a rushed attempt at removing some unused wiring... but it's only the second car I have done this too... so pretty sure I have learned my lesson now.

Nope doesn't change with braking. Undo the actual 32mm hub nut? Yes... or just loosen it off... if the hub nut is on super tight it can prevent any movement in the bearing, even though the bearing is rooted.

yeah, but if the spark plug was loose enough to rattle... it wouldn't have been holding any compression. Or was it not actually loose enough to move... just not as tight as it should have been?

Does it go away when you are on the brakes? Undo the hub nuts and see how loose the bearings are then.

If the bearing is squeaking it's usually because it's seized completely and the outer shell is rotating in the hub. No rumbling because the bearing is not actually moving at all. It will wreck the hub pretty quick when it gets to that stage. You should be able to move the wheel though... if not by hand, then with a crow bar under the tire. Or it could be the brake pads.

Did it feel like it was only running on 3 cylinders?

Or cut chassis rail mounts out and weld in new mounts that match the new seat brackets directly... no rails to worry about.

It's going to be hard, if not impossible to use the 3 point belt with a proper race seat... possibly not allowed in schedule A. I do not think schedule A allows the use a 5/6 point harness without a harness bar any more either.

You mean the headers used on the vf38 crap out or the motors and turbos crap out?

Cool, thanks. So the ID of the Legacy pipes is smaller than the WRX/STI?

Does such a thing exist?

Big ends can start off as a very quiet knock and progress to an all out cacophony of metal on metal noise. My engine, especially since installing hard mounts is pretty loud at idle, especially when cold. Listening to your video again I think it's completely normal noise.

I think it's normal noise... mine makes a lot of mechanical noise... do you have hard engine mounts?

It's hard to tell how loud it is on the video... could it just be normal valve train noise? Did you put some different oil in there?

BEB?

Too big to be fast on a street course... but sounds awesome... this one has a very nice exhaust setup from llama.

Raced at Port Rd on Sunday... results were pretty disappointing. First run was a dnf due to some dodgy wiring (mine) which stopped the external fuel pump relay from operating. I bypassed the relay for subsequent runs... the rest were pretty mediocre due to a combo of messy unfocussed driving and annoying as hell understeer that always rears it's ugly head at this event... plus turbo lag made worse by not being able to apply lots of throttle immediately after turn in due to the understeer. I am going to try bigger springs in the rear to help with the understeer and some mild anti lag is being setup as well. 1st (Albaru) to 5th in class were all Subarus... followed by an Audi (S8 v10), a Galant and another Audi (TT).

I managed all the rear lateral arms bushes with a small vice and some sockets. The rear trailing arm front bush can be drilled and the outer sheath cut with a hack saw. Rear trailing arm rear bush I used a gear puller and socket. Rear diff out rigger bushes you can use a drill then a hack saw. Rear diff cradle bushes the same... but not tried it without removing the whole thing from the car.

jp-carparts is very slow and annoying to use, but at least pretty complete. Also they don't have very deep categories and you have to rely on the images a lot more... which take forever to load. Amayama have good categories with good common sense / well translated naming.

I found their catalogue sub standard anyway, I've always used jp-carparts and more recently amayama.com, then just part number look up at partsouq.

They are only good for very hard driving. You could drive around with open diffs all round and not even notice on a daily.

The big wing is great... but if you prefer the boy racer shaved look... about 20kg of bricks in the boot will have the same affect

The R/RA gearbox makes for a very different driving experience. Lower ratios, 60% torque to the rear instead of %40... a real rear diff, and DCCD. Some boxes will have a front lsd too... but just a viscous lsd. So better acceleration and much less of the understeer you get in a normal STi setup... unless you crank the centre diff right up, in which case it will probably start to understeer.