Loren

At least you can still buy parts for the 6 speed box... if you have a 5 speed you are screwed.

No problem. Be aware that it's also not a green flag... the gearbox could well be shagged and ready to snap a tooth. You have to factor that in when buying an older car.

How are pedestrians ever going to learn to respect drivers if cars have things like that. Lame.

No, it's a normal thing to need replacing periodically.

synchros are a service item like the clutch and brake pads.

I have a couple of these... large one in the car, smaller one on a trailer. https://gpslivetrack.co.nz/gps-trackers/battery-powered-gps-trackers/ $15+gst per month each as well, which kinda sux but there are a lot of features you get for that and don't have to worry about sim cards etc.

Did you get it from RCM directly or from James Marshall Motorsport?

To be fair to @Divine the first post was made in 2009, so it doesn't mention anything about a 2014 model

If you really want them to fit... they will. Might need to get the welder out though.

That is lame... I use battery powered GPS units... no wires, no way to disable them... easy to hide and the batteries last for years.

I looked it up on youtube... stupid that they leave giant holes there.

What is the purpose of the fender shroud? Never heard of anything like it before.

no need to recirculate the bov once the MAF has gone.

If you lose the MAF and put a catch can in... the intake pipe suddenly becomes very simple. A straight pipe (under the manifold) with a bend. Connect it to the standard airbox, or to a cold air intake as you said.

Once the MAF is gone just get a custom pipe made up.... a nice clean intake will have benefits.

Lose the MAF and you are onto something... otherwise don't bother. Bring the flywheel back and I'll refund you.

youtube

5 or 6 speed? I'm pretty sure i have a 5 speed flywheel lying around.

just do whatever makes the car seem happier... the clutch is fine with slipping a bit at low revs.

I'm no AVCS expert but I know it's operated via oil pressure... maybe it needs some constant oil pressure to take up some slack in it's mechanism?

yeah they are important... once you find one, make sure the spacing is correct... too big of a gap and it won't prevent a jump... too small and heat builds up and damages the belt.

Usually you would have a belt guard above the crank pulley to prevent the belt from jumping... is it just off for checking the position of the belt, or is it missing?

I don't disagree with any of that... I just don't think that noise would be caused by the belt being out by one tooth. I certainly WOULD be changing the belt, tensioner, all the idlers and water pump though.

The timing belt being off by one tooth with not make a noise... the engine just won't run quite right. But the exhaust wheel fouling on the intake wheel will likely cause a bit of a noise... as in the last picture.

ej207 is generally inlet 0.20 +/- 0.02 exhaust 0.25 +/- 0.02