Gripless

Not my area and someone with older car knowledge will confirm but... Looks like it matches this one 1 to the turbo outlet ‘nipple’ 3 intake manifold. 4 wastegate actuator. 2 intake manifold to map sensor. The hose in the U shaped bend in the photo and not labeled. See matching brown wiring connector. Is it running a stock looking wastegate actuator? have you got a boost gauge or log the boost from the car? i ask as if not get some logs or recordings as fixing things may lead to more boost and break stuff.

There are rubber with conducting strips grounding straps that you can bolt to the bottom of the car. https://www.supercheapauto.co.nz/p/sca-sca-anti-static-strap/291886.html The cause is your clothing and seat covering. Man made fibres are great at generating static. And woven materials are better still like seat covers or jerseys. Natural fibres are not as good so your leather seats have been saving you. Easy test they do in schools. get a plastic ruler and small scrap of paper. put the paper on the ground. Run the ruler across the material a few time quickly and hold it near the paper. the paper will be attracted to the ruler and stick with the static charge. I bet your clothes and new seats work really well at building a static charge.

Oh yeah forgot this http://nzgaskets.co.nz/mobile/SearchByVehicle.aspx?ManID=37&Model=Legacy the search is by make model of car not part goes back many many many years.

Open Partsouq.com and type that number into the search box and it will appear. try staparts.co.nz as well.

Yeah looks smaller, but location helps send them to helpful places

Whereabouts are you and when do you need it?

https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/car-stereos/speakers/other/listing/2740059904 interesting option. two 8” and some 4” components to get rid of. or https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/car-stereos/subwoofers/10-or-smaller/listing/2744440414 these are actually not subs but last set I used played pretty well.

Next you’ll tell me sidewalls have no grip.

I want to know how long a run up he needed to get up the highway off ramp. it’s like a space ship ion drive very little acceleration that needs time to add up to moving fast.

Do it. I let all my old gear go in the swift which was sad but had no time to get it out.

so far just hooked up and running all flat, and f*** me it sounds better already. Did not know the headunit amp was so bad, its a nice alpine one and it was better sounding than the pioneer it came with. it was ok at 40% or less volume but broke up after that. The headunit I have has internal amp off option and full tone bypass. Seems though no wave file support so waiting for MP3 pink noise to download............................. and it is all in an setup and sounding even better... other than amp not mounted. crossover on amp set to 60Hz for the auto EQ and then headunit changed from full while auto EQ was running to high pass at 100Hz. So much more mid bass and smoothed out the upper range. It is already better than I could manage with the parametric in the headunit. Vocals are a little les clear on some tracks but that's just the way they were mixed when recorded. Gains are set super low even though with testing it didn't clip through 70% of the range. Which is where I gave up as it was way too loud (with ear plugs in) gain if it was a clock goes from 7:30 low through to 4:30 at high. I've left it at 9 o'clock (~20%) which allows it to be quite loud at 25 out of 35 max on the headunit volume. Bonus this should make it stay cooler and it went from icy cold metal to slightly cool like plastic. Had to pull the subwoofer gains back as it was booming since the external amp gain is different from the built in one. Still have one touch access to sub gain control in the headunit so setup to +5 out of +15Db so can turn it up or down depending on the song. Is it perfect, No. Is it worth it, yes. Given the cost of the amp and the features are included for little extra cost and its all-in-one design. Is it better than hours of try to tune the headunit (I have a basic analyser), yes. A little bit of tailoring it to personal taste with parametric in headunit should result in a nicer sound. also switch to disable time alignment if you don’t like the single seat config. Down sides It is flat which isn't idea, but even EQ or presets in a cheap headunit may help. Being a class D it will never ever sound great, class D is cheap and efficient at the cost of quality. If you have a headunit with auto EQ like pioneer etc then still ok for the amp only but Sony make twice the power for $100 less. Somewhere I have alpine silk domes in a box the bi-amp option looks good to try in the future. also after I finished mounting it a listened to the speakers and it seems to have reduced the treble at the rear. Not sure if this is auto eq feature or not but it makes the sound seem more forward and sounds pretty good.

If I swap it out sure.

you can definitely get it in there, pull the centre vent soft plastic duct and there is space below it. The metal rails that hold up the dash are wide enough to get the amp between, not sure how bad the plugs will get bent long term. there are no fins on the amp so it can't be expected to get very hot. I may cover the bottom of the vents in dynamat to keep the heat away.

I used to do all this sort of thing and wasn't going to do much with the current car. Since the replacement speakers have made it both better and worse I've started playing again. So far only an auto EQ amp but another is likely on the way as is a new 10' or dual 8" subs in a custom enclosure.

Just had a thought, well two. First these would mount behind the mechless double din units Second you could mount two of these amp side by side in line with car by cutting the top and back off. Leaving a nice shelf and the door to hide the front RCA block with the controls forward iso you can put the mic in or adjust the options. you could cut a few extra holes in the bottom to allow more air flow. https://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-stereos/other/listing-2746320292.htm You can run these as a bi-amp with the builtin auto crossover and the auto EQ works it all out. So bi-amp first as front mid and tweeter with auto EQ and second amp for rear coaxial and sub without auto EQ and still has sub control from headunit.

managed to solder and heat shrink the amp loom to the cut up ISO to ISO loom ready to clip into the car. Dash is half stripped, but found there is room above the lower tray in front to the gear shift and below the centre vents to fit the amp. It's going to hang suspended at the corners by cable ties. There is so many random plugs and sensors back there it can't sit on anything flat. ran out of daylight due to old soldering iron sulking and not staying hot for long periods. The temp controlled one refuses to even heat up enough to melt solder so it got to visit the bin. Tomorrow is find a good grounding and bolt the new grounding ring terminal too. Try to did out some split tubing to wrap the cables so it looks factory and is nice and protected. Also Kicker 200MB WAV files are slow to download limited to ~44Kb/s WTF is the point of Gigabit fibre?

Not sure if anyone currently looking or if they are on sale all the time but... On special under winter specials was $199 sale $128 https://www.qualitycaraudio.co.nz/zeroflex-zf8fd-8-240w-120w-rms-subaru-factory-repacement-car-subwoofer-with-easy-finance-9273

Ok it’s tiny. length is only as Car stereo is wide. 1.5x stereo wide 0.75 stereo height can squeeze it behind glovebox but it’s a weird angle and need to make little 4x4 cm flap to keep heater vent blowing on the very edge. when it stops raining I’ll pull the drivers side under steering wheel and there should be way more room. it’s so small likely you could stuff it behind the centre vents but then you can’t get to it and that plastic gets a bit hot.

Ok since i seem to keep ordering things from here for the car and raspberry Pi usually ship next or even same day so far everything has been as expected. these are OEM to aftermarket speaker plugs which are sure helpful either as the are or cut the end off to screw to crossover. https://www.wavetech.co.nz/SPKR-HARNESS-1/ ordered another ISO to ISO loom to clip between the current setup to add a mini amp and EQ.

Based on New Plymouth great friendly team Actually does know Subarus Good service and worked to get things done on time even when some specialist tooling and work need to be outsourced. http://www.hodgemotors.co.nz

Yes and i own way way way way to much audio gear. time alignment is s*** unless you can change the seating location, pioneer did that with theirs. Flat is ok if your speakers are flat response but generally lower end ones aren’t Compared to home speakers car speakers are really s***. Making them flat at the amp is good since the head unit can still make the personal touches. 41 band eq in amp to get rid of the speaker issues has to help the harsh response jumps. plus parametric in headunit can make personal touches. I have 5-7 bands there. when I had awesome speakers in the car and auto eq with the old pioneer hedunit it sounded really good. But that was $1299 a pair components. Which are now in a swift I don’t own somewhere. have very similar eq to you on my pc with APO eq which is free. for headphones something like massive cut at 35 and below -24db headphone suck down low Wide bump at 50hz +3db curve looks like ported sub response tail ends about 100Hz wide bump at 400hz vocals 1.3db depends on headphones I’m using. Notch at 1.66kHz but very narrow Q. Seems to be an area most speakers spike up a bit. Moves between 1-2kHz depending on headphones. Roll off over 12kHZ but don’t need it as much anymore with the burson DAC headphone amp it’s super accurate and detailed. Heaps of the eq issues are the bloody op-amps so replacing those is worth it.

You make me feel bad. ive had my car nearly 4 years and snowed it once the other week. only other time it gets washed is when serviced and the apprentice has to clean it. today i waxed the bonnet, roof and top of front guards... the lower areas are covered in tar spots 😔

Yeah imprint is the same but $500 if you get the mic to DIY well i ordered one just now so I’ll see if it can fix these speakers. need to grab some short RCA cables to link it all in i also like the idea of the kicker making it flat and then using the head unit eq to make it more how i like. That way super easy to change and won’t need the mic again. the H800 does that as you drive so is real time and way better but about $1000

Look the inter cooler fin design won’t be as efficient as process west by miles but it should be as good or slightly better than OEM thing with plastic ends. So the increase is size will make the difference. just pressure test it before fitting and if it fails get it swapped. stuff from China is often from the same factory but cheaper brands have lower or no testing or quality control.

I was looking for a Alpine imprint or H800 unit but this seems way better and works with the factor stereo. Plus the H800 requires a seperate amp. can also run from speaker inputs or RCA and remote on lead like normal. could be an option for Macintosh systems as well??? video in action not the best but enough to hear the difference. https://www.crutchfield.com/S-qxE6Ew4Q2ha/p_206KEY1804/Kicker-KEY180-4.html https://drivingsound.co.nz/product/kicker-key1804-key-smart-amplifer-acoutstic-correction/