Gripless

Initial feedback is that it works. you still need to seal the doors with traditional rubber/tar and alloy mat but it helped the floor and hatch area a noticeable amount. stuffing the very rear across under the latch with 3layers killed a lot of drone.

Lower end coaxials lack even more bass and have worse tweeters so they maybe pretty quiet down low. seems google for reviews states the same lack of warmth and low end. there is a fair amount of room to clear the glass. The mounts are about 2cm from the door. But as I found out you loose 5mm or so to get the higher cone travel to not high the door skin. I have a CV sub all in one unit on the back seat so that picks up the low end for me. also driving today I can tell the improvement was worth it for the road noise etc as well. I think the last bit is the back of the hatch under the latch were it’s hollow and there is no sound deadening. I may just roll up some of the quilted sheets and stuff it in as a test.

Nope same as yours originally just the mids. the tweeter wiring is all there but no tweeter in the triangle cover. The factor tweeter is just clipped in and has a capacitor attached. It’s not really and audio upgrade. I swapped to infinity reference coaxial and they suck. Vocals are either harsh or muddy as it has a big peak in response near the upper vocal range. They good for some music with guitars but vocals not so much. the staging is actually good and music sounds high up on the top of the dash so the stock mounting is pretty good. Looking at swapping to alpine type S separates front and coaxial rears. Will mount tweeters over mids like coaxials but like the full cone of separates for the extra mid bass. alpine have silk tweeters so are much flatter response and musical.

Found the area around the clip I missed. Door skin clips in again. tried to adjust the eq on the stereo but I think the speakers are too s*** to get good sound from. much 😔 To EQ or to replace speakers? pretty sure speakers are likely to need replacing. infinity low end speakers are bad, really bad. rockford even the punch are not great so now have to find something nice.

Finished drivers side sound deadening for doors and floor today. just need to trim a small bit and refit door skin. It’s pushed out 3mm around one of the clips so I must have missed trimming a bit. put a few sheets of quilting across under boot false floor as well. exhaust sounds loud but very much at rear of the car so something has stopped the in cabin drone.

I think it’s more that if’s it like the carpet everything is interlinked and clips love to snap off. I’ve snapped one of my sill clips the plastic seems very soft. and the door car around speaker cracked as well. i snapped a inner fender clip on @Niran car when we did the airflow mod. even my s*** 90’s car never broke clips like this car. i cut 40% of my Mitsi dash out to save weight and it never split or broke... I have little faith in Subaru plastic.

And 2 months after letter sent it arrived. now I have the joy of seeing how much they will f*** up the dash.

I’d say the ECU is and was fine. if it’s reporting a consistent error then that’s generally a good thing. isnt there a diagnostic menu option for test running the fan. Subaru dealers should have run that test. simple one turn the AC on and see if both fans go. You can also drive around and see if the fans come on when the car gets hot.

Is this the factory alarm or some random aftermarket one? Is this the progress? 1) car wouldn’t start I guess 2) suspected fault with the immobiliser. 3) replaced the controller for immobiliser 4) new fan fault code appears now car goes 5) replaced ECU 6) still have fan fault code

Ok so I have no idea if it helps with heat as it’s not that cold yet. but... First drive while I’m not sure it makes a big difference... the exhaust note seems to be more rearward and seems that’s likely due to a little less drone in the front of the cabin. it’s still loud as f*** but I think there is enough improvement to notice so I guess I’ll do the rear foot wells and under seat plus go all out and cover the hatch floor. And it’s on special today so basically free shipping at 6 sheets

Forgot The Wife 101

What machine of the heads are you referring too? looks like you need the pistons machined to have valve pockets for clearance. generally you want a gap of 1-2mm around and under the valve face to get good flow and allow for any thermal expansion. where about are you located?

Lol plate For The Wealth 101 so you’re at the uni entry level.

Added 2 sheets of quilted sound deadening to the front foot wells. only needed two holes for the clips and it slide in as it’s exactly 50cm wide the same as the floor. i forgot what a complete nightmare lifting the carpet is in these newer cars. the sills are attached to the carpet with staples and those plastic cable carriers are under the belt lower mount etc. So I left it all in there other than pulling off the little domes that hold the carpet to the firewall and Center console and slide it into place. Took about 15 mins for both sides... then found out there is massive gaps with no foam or sound deadening right under the front edge of the front seats between the heater vents for the rear seats. You can see straight to the metal... if the front seems like it works OK I’ll order a couple more sheets for the rear.

I like it... kind of goes with the wheels What brand I may do mine again. The old stuff was too dark and old owner did a s*** job with wrinkles. Still not sure about the tint or red on black cars

The closed cell foam is good on the outer door skins. yeah it’s a 3M type product copy so 50/50 if it’s good but may try it in the hatch under the removable top wood and carpet bit. The 3mm closed foam is really good for this too. may try a sheet on the plastic door skins as well since it’s only $20 to do both doors.

very lightweight and waterproof. not sure I buy the fireproof but looks to self extinguish so that is good. https://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-stereos/other/listing-2732507824.htm?rsqid=e9f13944b2fa48bbaae154fbe4324020-002

Not strictly GC8 but I called the mobile glass guy for my race car and he had a bunch of different seals. One was nice and thin and looked better than the original. otherwise para rubber or panel beater supplies shops.

Steering rack upper seals done. even a WOF tomorrow I will try to finish sound deadening in the doors and adding the light weight nylon quilt thermal and sound sheet to foot wells. hopefully less noise and warm feet.

And a cheaper option from sony https://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=2732555576

That’s such a nice job. Tempted to get mine done now.

Did they re clear coat them as well?

There is one way... puke the battery and see what it resets too. Hopefully it’s 12 hour so pull the battery and reconnect at 12. is there a 3rd button on the left side to hold to make the H and M buttons work?

I’ve always got custom ones since they are usually cheapest and sound awesome. Big single adrenalinR one across the back would be quiet and flow a lot. depends on the look you want as well. Single side is way cheaper than both sides. You can always have a fake set of tips on one side to save $$$ only others like the currently fitted one came on the car and are high end Japanese ones. Though it’s loud and I’ll be removing it at some stage. It is titanium so very nice but LOUD. The other option is if you can weld is to cut the top off the factory one and modify it and reweld the top on.

Have you looked at the wiring ones are in there. Not always a nice single page but you can trace the pins.