Gripless

That will be as effective as a single port and seems pointless You are still always applying pressure to the bottom, with 3 port setup so best case zero sum across diaphragm. Boost top and bottom just equals out so back to spring pressure, With 4 port you get atom bottom and boost top until it's cycled so boost plus spring to keep the gate closed.

Has anyone other than @Niran looked at more than the outdated factory actuators? Oem looking dual ports for usd$30 good for 25psi (higher options are available) https://www.speedyracer.com/Turbocharger-Internal-Wastegate-Actuator-Dual-Port-fits-T3-T3-T4-T04E- They still need a 4 port solenoid which seems to be about $180 but gives a fully stock look. A fully electronic actuator based ones for reasonable Cost. VW ELECTRONIC TURBO ACTUATOR 1.2 TSI 1.2 TFSI https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/GENUINE-VW-ELECTRONIC-TURBO-ACTUATOR-03F145725G-CBZA-CBZB-1-2-TSI-1-2-TFSI/652325228 depends on the control signal but if it's PWM then it would be plug and play (well tuning needed)

You could put the horn in front of Pete he won't mind, won't make too much difference as long as it's not going to hit pete when you go over bumps. give the alloy pipe a clean while you're there, but don't polish it. A light scuff with scouring pad from the kitchen works. Rough surface coolers better.

I'd name it Pete the Power steering cooler

Maybe true a few years ago, but to find a clean and tidy sti wouldn't that be bloody hard?

Can always just pick the other model parts up that bolt on so it's still OEM just newer. must be some v6-8 parts that fit. that way you get a little more power for way less spend and it still looks original and tidy.

What's the factory pressure written inside the drivers door sill by the lock catch? Think factory there is a few psi difference front to rear due to the weight balance to keep the DCCD happy. Somewhere between that factory pressure and the max psi rating on the tyre works. Think im some thing like 38 front 36 rear on 45 profiles but it's the value on the door sill plus 2psi over winter. you can run more on pure nitrogen as it won't expand as much with heat like the 21% oxygen content in the air. Which is only a benefit in traffic really where the tyres don't heat up. Low pressure like 35 psi on 45 profile tyres won't be pretty at 100kph and a big pot hole.

Page 127 under "danger to manifold" section.

Don't forget header length and heat losses add up, one of the reasons why the newer FA series has the front mount turbo. im pretty sure the stock sti can hit close to 240 kW with the stock turbo

Pitty the Nissan ones seemed to have a circlip which would have been nice. Looks like Mitsubishi one from galant is the same and pressed or welded together. Those LSD spring plates are just long life shims the alloy breaks down before the gears. But if the gears are worn the springs allow it to be more predictable. Used to be a few hundred each and common in America.

Only thing I couldn't see was the larger bearing carrier must add weight and offset the saving in the wheel. otherwise heaps of cool things. think I'd still keep my gfb BOV without the noise it's not right, and the boost solenoid. I can see why they have them built in as an option and is likely better than most OEM ones and shortens the hose mess.

@nztintin Yeah that sums it up alright average results at best and high wear rate. If the spiders are already wearing then it will be unpredictable. I think maybe it's binding the coupler to the diff housing so it will be forced to turn the shaft, or its just crushed so it locks up. There was a Subaru post somewhere that did the same but no results posted. That's how I found that d1nz link the first time. @Loren yeah I don't get it fully either but the Nissan guys get results with it so it kind of works. thicker oil or a new unit in the diff sounds like the only reasonable options. Is the coupler sealed or can you open it? Could get a new set of plates (dealer will tell you if there's a rebuild kit) to go in it or fill it with thick grease and seal it up. If you where going to weld it then sell the LSD and F*** an open diff with welding. Assuming the LSD is worth more to someone else.

http://brunsolutions.com.au/downloads/d1-nzhowtoshim.pdf heres the old d1nz Nissan diff shining guide, few links on the internet suggest it's the same unit as the Subaru unit on the inside. Could always check if anyone on here or a low end model has the stubs you need to run the good diff.

True then you also need box for early foresters before they turned suv

Shouldn't there be a station wagon vs sports wagon vs sedan vs coupe poll some where. I'm guessing most legacy's are wagons but how many wrx are wagon?

Lol I don't understand it at all, searched my car again now it says no recall in big red text. Not even a table there now, just no active recall and same paragraph about what is searchable and excluded. guess the only sure way is to get a chassis number after the job is done and recheck to see if it changes. someone who has a letter just put the chassis number in and increment it until you get a different result.

Copy the right most box into google translate. If the word 'caution' appears then most likely never done. then there's the fact it may have been disabled with a resistor but no idea what the note for that is. i can see the airbag in my car with the glovebox out so may check to see if it's been disabled.

I thought I read they physically marked something on the car when it was done. mitsubishi put yellow dot or marks on recalled parts.

Yes and so it has its own seperate topic with only a link here, in case anyone in the future is looking for images.

WRC Impreza photo in Motorsport section (clubsub)

After @Subru thread turned to photoshop and car photos I had a quick look back into my archives and grabbed out all the WRC photos I had of 2009 or 2010 (not sure which) but there will be another years worth somewhere. These are all as shot with just resize and crop so some are not in focus etc. If you want to comment copy the link to the phot don't quote the post, it'll get loooooong.... Link to gallery Yes they took the reckk cars through before the WRC ones as test runs.

I'd say let the lost grow, last gen sti can hit over 210wkw with down pipe and tune.

Took car for an unexpected bath, flooded road roulette. so underside and wheel arches will be nice and clean.

@chulozumo lol sure you don't really feel bad but... You aren't contributing to pollution. well not much, welcome to the NZ promotes pollution. ok so we just can't avoid it we are an island and import so much.

Wondering if I'll get a letter being it wasn't on nz list?