Gripless

So you think it resist upwards stretching of the engine mounts. I don't see how it can be the gearbox end as you only get 5mm upwards travel on gearbox mount before its steel on steel. force must be tiny if that factory tiny Rod doesn't snap.

Skip to page 2 for results. Ok so since the crank is inline with the gearbox the boxer engine rolls not pitches under load. It's not like an East West mounted engine like the evolution. It also sits in the near the center of a triangle of engine and gearbox mounts so can't be under almost any load ever. To make it worse if its almost solid mounted then since the engine rolls the pitch rod will be twisted and untwisted constantly stressing the bracket and transferring noise. Plus any small frontal impact will drive the rod into the firewall and gearbox. I've seen the rod snap even under minor impact and the same way the engine mounts shear so the impact isn't transferred to the occupant space. Other than it seems like a great support when you remove the engine and leave the gearbox hanging. Why upgrade it?

Specs say 4 ohms as its all-in-one unit so can't change it. Guess that makes the amp even more powerful than the old model.

@Zenki the vpas12 I got today has 30Hz subsonic and the passive radiator slot on the back so maybe a little deeper. Fingers crossed. If it's not enough and I can get it in by Tuesday then I can always get another. But I've got a hatchback so not much other than that sliding plastic sheet seperating it from me. ill try front at 63Hz -24dB and sub at 80 -12dB as the sub already cuts -12 at 150Hz +/- 20%. But yes I'll fiddle for a week or so until it sound average across all songs. I do like that the gain dial while weighting less that a 10c coin, clicks nicely twice per marking. Oh and that the wire is Rj11 phone stuff so I can shorten it.

@Zenki does the vpas10 have the passive radiator (port on the back covered in rubber) to extend the bass lower? The vpas12 is meant to have a little more towards 30Hz but looking at other companies that publish full ratings it's not the standard -3dB some are -20dB (that's 15 times lower) by 30Hz. @THUNDA they are class D so way less power wasted in the amp to heat. The boxes aren't tape sealed so you can take it out and look at it. only thing that concerns me is the +/- 20% on the low pass filter adjustment. So at 150Hz max it could be 120Hz at 85Hz min could be 58Hz. going to leave it at max and use head unit to do X over since it is way more accurate and steeper cut.

Not hooked up yet... Won't get a chance until Tuesday to power it up. Sale ends Tuesday if you're looking. Still 50/50 on location to install. Most likely stuck to rear seat back, otherwise front passengers footwell. Though the reviews are pretty good and it is solid. That much wattage should give good control for nice tight bass. I have to find good hole in firewall and also strip the foam off the rear seat to get some blots through. I'm not sure install manual recommended 25mm screws into the seat back will be the best for the poor passengers

Yesterday helped install a new stereo and rewired an amp for a mate who had been shopping at repco 30% off sale. I called repco to see if they had any underseat subs, "yes we stock one crewin vega unit". I'd looked at the VPAS10 10" 450w max 200W RMS so it's a nice unit just to big for the backseat armrest replacement location I wanted. Today I looked at repco since I was on the way past as worst case I find some random stuff to buy. WTF it's the newer VPAS12 250w RMS 12" woofer and nicer case, best part $280 on sale. F*** the armrest idea that's powerful enough I don't care. The tiny 50w pioneer, Kenwood etc underseat 5x9 woofers are $299. Pictures and specs... VPAS10 VPAS12 (really still 10" with surround, even written on the unit itself)

Very true, I'd say I'm very tolerant and prefer handling over comfort. but that's all combined with seats and tires as well. Going to bigger than stick rims will make them seem more firm. If you have nicer fatter seats in a foz then they won't seem as hard. Raceseats, 40 profile tires and AGX not idea for daily but it lived with it. After about 4+ hours non stop driving you kind of start to wonder if it's worth it. Then you get to twisty roads and forget again.

I've had the KYB AGX a few times before, they are factory shocks and are rebranded as many other models. It's possible the OEM ones are KYB as well. AGX have pretty usable adjustment range for 4 levels, good enough for road and track. Dials are nice and big so easy to check and turn if they are bottom adjustment otherwise little screwdriver needed if mounted on top. There is always the option of getting Koni inserts fitted into the factory shocks. Basically they gut the factory stuff and keep the mounts and spring seat and fit a Koni damper inside. http://www.GeorgeStock.co.nz does both Koni and KYB AGX series. Monroe are fine for the price is right, i.e. Know someone who works at repco or similar and gets a discount. Or holiday sales like this weekend may have discounts. Almost any OEM like struts will be a big improvement over the worn ones you have. bilstein or other factory shocks from someone who's gone to adjustable is always an option if you can find low km ones. things to watch out for are any mounting points for Swaybars(not sure affects Subaru) and brake/abs lines that may change between models. But you can get around the line mount issue pretty cheaply.

Buy them and find out. if they are a good brand and look ok then it's going to be good.

Well valentines days is coming up. Time for some extra effort and promises to be made

How is that a shock, its only loosely related to the actual cars and more press and marketing dollars. F*** they got James May to drive and like the Type R on The Grand Tour already. Being honest it's not like it's really Australian, it'll be like the mags here now and all syndicated worldwide. Other than the Holden of course E class is a bit big for the rest of that list, otherwise good spread of sponsors and brands to keep readership and advertising up.

Maybe it's waiting for a special occasion like a 21st.

Depends on marketing. Zero over head cam twin charged dual crank... Lots of trucks are sold for being just a truck for farms or personal use or to companies as fleet vehicles so I'd say it will do ok. it seems tall so trucks are a good starting point. wonder what it sounds like? Guess it'll be muffled so it can't annoy anyone. Like the tesla I'll have no soul. Sounds just like the rotary all over again, accept no 10,000rpm scream

Try turbo service places even truck ones around your area. that link has some measurements or take your own they are pretty generic.

Maybe but those have a double groove lips and the holes in the center look bigger as in nuts and socket would fit. The top ones look like you need those Allen key nuts. but again top are two tone for factory as even the area covered by the tyre is coated. though it's a S*** photo to go from. Could just be a copy of those rims though as many similar features.

Lol looks like a urban chop shop 3 dashes and random parts everywhere. I'd wait for the more info, the stamps in the casting on the outer lip will have brand or type if they are higher end and Japanese, i.e. Forged, monoblock and made in Japan. nice looking wheels though from what you can make out, can see why you're interested in them . And tiny pcd is likely 5x100 odd spoke count the is nice but does mean much. But the fact they look like two tone paint pretty much excludes them being a racing wheel or OEM wheel. As does the sharp curve where the spokes come in to the hub. Also the hub being wide enough for 5x114.3 or more. Race wheels can have different casting for different stud patterns to increase strength (Not always). All depends on price and if you like the look of them. Can always ask the weight of them as well.

Which one?

Sponsors really are great

Reduces stress of kids in the car as so has many layers of benefits. Alpinestar make really nice gloves. I hunk I'll be getting a pair soon, maybe even tomorrow. Wait until you look at 3 layer FIA ones they make your wallet vanish the high end ones are getting cheaper and the low end is staying the same.

So someone could look at getting a group of 5 or more people together and then you may get a bigger discount. Either directly with the manufacturers or a local store. FYI cotton overalls are pretty poor at stopping you burn. In fact it's not that they require them as they don't burn, they just don't melt and bond into your skin when they burn like polyester or nylon Also the overalls were meant to have sealed cuffs as well but not all scrutineers will enforce that. If you have the spare cash suits start around a few hundred and actually resist burning and self extinguish. Plus you look way faster. If you do get cotton overalls then the pale colors are nicer on a hot day if you are standing around. Yes you wrap the sleeves around your waist so they are just pants when out of the car but they are still F***ing hot in summer. As @Andy_Mac said all the towel/washing and uniform companies sell overalls. Try the ones Andy suggested as well as: https://www.alsco.co.nz https://www.argyleperformanceworkwear.com/Categories/Overalls/100-Cotton-Flameguard/Arcguard/FRDCO-NAV/ heaps of options Don't do 100% cotton: nzsafetyblackwoods farmlands bunnings mitre10 New Zealand race suits: http://www.chicane.co.nz https://www.flamecrusher.com https://www.racetech.co.nz As @Inked discovered racetech are great to deal with as are chicane who both shared a booth at the last speed-show. There are suppliers in NZ for most brands. Ie alpine star, sparco, sabelt so if you want some particular style it will be around.

This version maybe clearer https://www.perrin.com/blog/post/boost-control-systems-explained-part-1 https://www.perrin.com/blog/post/boost-control-systems-explained-part-2 https://www.perrin.com/blog/post/boost-control-systems-explained-part-3 Same deal more articles up one level https://www.perrin.com/blog (WARNING: contains evo, mini and other brands. Subaru owners may experience an adverse reaction)

Since your region is kind of big you could always take a longer list of places and see who can tick off the most over a set time. Maybe something like... https://www.odt.co.nz/news/dunedin/otago-be-second-landmarks-programme you can even make it family friendly or make it clubsub stickers at the location in case you need to use your "other" car.

No the point is that 260wkw is where the heads become a reasonable restriction, it's not hard limit. (Like the police telling you over 100kph you will be punished and the further past the more you suffer.) It is the point where head work has the highest increase in value for getting it done. Not that you wouldn't see gains even at stock power with increased head flow, maybe only 5-8 kW but it's there. Unless you are trying to build the fastest stock block car then you'll get value from head work. He has traded reliability for the power, same way a street car would have gone forged before that power level. Drag racing is brutal, and near the top and rebuilds are frequent. Same as ej20 heads on to the ej25 are done to get more flow. Porting is worth it if you have the heads off. Even just a tidy up of the casting helps, as does port matching. Like when you see two guys with similar builds and one makes more power, it's likely they spent a little more time and effort doing a lot of the little things like porting.

So lol car weight is about 1320kg for that hp and 1/4 mile. Coincidence? 578 hp for a few passes and a dyno run sure, but not a daily driver power figure. 3 runs in Texas then rebuilt again and that was at 600hp and 10.7 passes. now it's not stock 1000hp and only a little faster, added weight of cage etc I guess.