Gripless

Modified the premium speaker mounts to take the larger 6.5" speakers. Original premium was 6" ordered adaptor for speaker looms so it's all nice and factory. Until then just more exhaust and road noise from missing speakers. wrapped outside in foam that sticks up 20mm past top of speaker. Best upgrade for improved bass to seal the speaker to the inner door skin.

Found out half the car is premium audio the other isn't wtf. Now have to figure out how to mount the other half of the speakers. confirmed secondary air pump holes are good for EGT sensors. booked car for new rear muffler

Walbro make quiet pumps... Wtf... when did the world end?

Anyone know what audio options came in the Impreza? half my car has cheap black plastic cones and are built into the frame/mount like the image below. the other pair looks like woven alloy with tweeters on a bracket over the center. Screwed in to a custom mounting plate to match the cheap ones. i was going to cut up the speakers to use the frames to make fitting kits for the new ones but seems a waste of good speakers.

Start with a in tank pump that's 250+ lph AEM sound like they are more reliable thatpn the DW ones. Just don't get walbro to old and noise will drive you crazy. You can add a second pump and surge tank later and that I tank won't be wasted as current pump is likely old. @mlracing.co.nz will be able to get you something that drops in there. then get injectors to suit the power you want I'd guess 750-850cc max daily unless you want big power on e85. DW website has a calculator based on power and type of fuel that give you minimum size injector.

How much power are you wanting to get out of it in future. Start with rallysportdirect.com and select your car or one with same engine, that will give you options and part numbers to cross reference with.

Removed door cards to see what speakers are fitted... Factory fixed the clips up that last person to remove door cards damaged. stuck sound deadening that was laying around in there. now wondering what Speakers to install in there, and if I cut up a pefect set of factory speakers to make mounts for them.

Yeah handles a bit to well to make cruise control chicken fun. still hopefully I'll get the audio controls working as well. also remembered that there are cruise lights as the Ecu lights them up with the engine check light. anyway today's test is to check the front speakers as one cuts out sometimes.

Contorted myself under the dash to check brake pedal switch pins. bent bracket for OBDII port out of way (so easy to bend and clear view to switch) and fly by wire cars like the STI have 4 pin switches Then got annoyed as I can't find my OBDII USB cable to check cruise control support with FreeSSM. but wreckers have the audio and cruise switches, so thats the plan now. Fit it up and see wtf happens. oh and got new reg sticker as last one got scared jumped out the window on the twisty roads.

@scratch sure if it's the model listed and you aren't going to use it in your car then let me know how much. got the wreckers to price up the buttons today so works out well.

If you do it seam weld it while it's in bits, stiffens up the shell so much compared to the few extra spot welds in the higher spec shells. When you see rigidity up x% in marketing and the car looks the same the trick in the 90's was extra spot welds around the doors and few key areas near suspension. Gt four WRC or group A came in to NZ the older shape group a has the newer generation bonnet with the 40mm round hole. They are water to air cooled to shorten the intake path just like the real WRC cars. All stuff you remove to make more power, but they have zero lag and throttle response is awesome. The second generation was in signature class as well. But the older group a with the pop up lights was non Toyota dealers. Most had the group a badges stolen but the bonnet is the easiest way to tell. But do the 22B you'll end up with a far more useable car with more room in it. maybe find a couple of others who want the conversion and save on shipping and get a shop to do them together.

@Loren not used them but thought the original two guys (one went back to uk) were ex pro-drive which explains the list of manufacturers. Never heard anything but good things about them. I was going to use them before I got the STI and may still go there at the end of the year. Only thing I don't like is ecutek as it locks the ECU but sure that's optional. dyno can simulate roads and can easily get every point to tune at. Depends on the operator, but all good tuners road test the car post tune to make sure nothing strange has happened with the tune. It's all down to the experience of the tuner, not what they use. it's not worth looking at the cost as you'll save gas and possibly an engine. Also since its auto you need to make sure they tune it so it's not going to push the gearbox(if they are know t be weak). remember to get all your basic mods ready before the tune i.e. down-pipe or you are wasting money.

Idle control can get stuck or fail or not sure if the non turbo has the TGV (but the 08 upwards run the TGV at idle and maybe light load not just cold start like the older cars). But logging shows what the Ecu is trying to do. guessing it's a throttle cable not electronic, still learning Subaru. could still be coils or plugs but they tend to sound lumpy almost constantly. so many options until you start checking things off. but check the voltage before you do anything else. Make sure it's 12v or higher.

Sensor or intake leak post MAF sensor. Maybe alternator supply issue at low rpm. does it rev freely and smoothly when in neutral? Is it a load based issue, more people in the car makes it worse. Like @THUNDA said if you don't have a obd2 dongle or cable to log data take it to a shop. Or you'll blindly be replacing parts.

@tigerstyle how old was that filter

Is there any recommended brands or cheap way to get the factory controls to work with aftermarket stereos. I've used aerpro in the past but can t find the cheap place I got them before. Aerpro make a Subaru Impreza one that lists the correct chassis CHSU1C anyone used one?

@thewabbit1 Refs by Ecu for ecuedit and romraider may help, lots there.

What's the best way to find the matching part numers for your car. this Subaru is the first where I don't have the dealer DVD with all the cars and parts.

So 2011 Impreza and forester switch part number seems to be 83154FG040. 4 pin brake switch 83370AA001 or older 83370AA000 can anyone put some links in here to the parts for the 08 Impreza and any other models. has anyone tried this in a car without any steering wheel audio controls?

Actually if you have the wiring diagram you could disconnect the Canbus or data pins and reset the stereo by removing the power overnight. They might fail to working rather than locked. may be too late given it already wants the code. other option is @boostin could compare the serial number on the stereo to the default code he has, sometimes they are just part of the serial number.

For anyone else write your stereo code on the inside of one of the trim peices or inside glove box in vivid, then it's always in the car. But unlikely a thief will take the unrelated trim. Actually who steals factory stereos they are usually junk.

Yeah i should have done but was rushing and didn't think about it.

Anyone know who has the car, was parked on the street outside a church last weekend. wasnt there long enough for me to put note (so hard to find per and pen) on it asking if they wanted to sell it. looks so clean, other than super deep dish steering wheel.

They should be able too, haven't ever tied with Subaru but other brands do. just act dumb give plate only (you are dumb and don't know what a chassis number is. Cars is for transport not fun), flat battery or some crap and can't find the book (husband lost it rant goes well here). If the missus calls it usually goes faster. Same way if they serviced the cars and the stereo needed the code they'd have to get it. but since it went for a while it maybe tied to the same security module as the keys and needs to be done at the dealers. Older ones locked up as soon as they got turned on after they lost power. Winger was always helpful with the Suzuki I had and questions, sometimes Saturday staff are able to help depends who's working.

I discovered why the non recaro said in the WRX and sti suck for lumbar support. When disassembling the seats I found both had only one side of the springs wired to the frame at the bottom. On both seats the airbag/outer side had the wire attach to the spring webbing cut off. Both seats in the exact same place and the original plastic was still intact so it's been like that from factory. The lateral supports are also hollow too. i added the extra padding the the sides and made a new wire clip to join it back up. On the drivers I added a small foam pad between the original foam and the springs. So much better now. ps if you do this you need very little foam to make a difference, para rubber has mixed foam sheets for under $9 that are 35x35x5cm and a single sheet will do both seats and have some left over. actually the thinner 25mm sheet would have been easier.