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boon

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Posts posted by boon

  1. What model alarm do you have? Sounds a little bit like you might need to re-pair the remote(s), buggered if I know how you do it, you probably need the overrride code which is usually entered by turning the ignition on and off. Meanwhile your alarm will be freaking out and the siren will be howling, unless you've got the override key for that and can switch it off... or smash it off the firewall and drop it in a bucket.

  2. Hmm okay maybe it is a more curly one. Is it caused by _any_ load on the engine (having the car in gear will slightly load it, viscous coupling blah blah blah) or only in gear? Try loading it up a bit (Air con, headlights + heated seats if you have them) in Park and see if it dips.

     

    How does it run with some throttle? If it was a spark/miss issue I feel like it would be more pronounced with more RPM and load, things like coils or plugs usually behave like that.

    It does feel a little bit like a slight air/fuel problem. Inclined to say a very small vacuum leak (more likely after the throttle body) or perhaps an issue with one of your exhaust oxygen sensors, although those usually throw a CEL.

     

  3. EThrottle cars don't have a IACV. They just open the throttle a bit when they need more air.

     

    So, uh, the spark plugs. How many did you pull out? And if you pulled them out to inspect them, why didn't you just put new ones in?

    "Rough idle. Haven't changed my plugs. Any suggestions?"

     

    Yeah I've got one I can think of...

     

     

     

    • Like 1
  4. 10 hours ago, Panda said:

    Very inciteful. Thank you very much for your advice. I am still keen to go ahead with a rebuild, reuse all parts except perhaps find a good set of used pistons. The local machine shop/EJ specialist (Tony Flynn) said it's worth throwing the pistons as far as you can and replacing them with used ones....even if they have known history. He said he seen denotation events cause damage to pistons that still pass the crack test. I think I will used OEM gaskets and seals (which I buy from machine shop) and a set of ACL duraglide bearings.

    I think your right. Local engine builder said the later EJs have a 12mm pump. He says it's a must upgrade for older engines....go to Subaru and get a OEM 12mm pump off a newer engine, they bolt right onto old EJs....they like $700 though.

     

    Brand new OEM 12mm pump is $150 on amayama btw :)

    • Like 1
  5. Q1. No, no gains, if anything you will slightly _lose_ as the aftermarket rods and pistons are potentially heavier, less well balanced, and not quite as good a fit as OEM. Assuming identical geometry, i.e. not gaining/losing compression. Stock turb and intercooler are never going to push the limits of even the stock internals if everything else is happy.

    Q2. I wouldn't bother just doing one. Either it's a forged build or it isn't. As to whether you would replace the pistons.... if you buy used pistons, you have no idea of their history. If you buy new pistons they're going to cost you about $500 for a set for stockies, is it worth it? I'd say probably not.

    Q4. The only factory internals I'd consider an "upgrade" are V7 STI EJ207 pistons and rods, and they're >$2000 for the pistons and around $800 for a set of rods, at which point you may as well just go aftermarket.

    Q5. Head gaskets, OEM. Rebuild kit in terms of bearings? YMMV. OEM are probably going to be the most reliable at stock power levels but might cost a metric assload.

    Q6. Yes, it's fine. Honestly unless #racecar where you have specific oil pressure needs, dicking about with the oil pump seems to lead to more problems than it's worth.

    Q7. As long as you weren't way out I'd probably nana it to the tuner, especially if you had slightly dropped compression rather than adding it. As long as you were comfortable it was driving well enough to make that trip safely. Anything turbo is kinda fundamentally variable compression anyway because the actual resultant cylinder pressure could be just about anything.

     

    With that out of the way.... I wouldn't bother with a rebuild to factory spec. A better option, IMO, is to just keep driving it on the assumption it will blow up at some stage, and in the meantime get another block and start building that one up properly (forged etc). Then when yours finally gives up the ghost, you have the option of throwing in a bigger turbo or something and making a bunch of power.

     

     

     

    • Like 3
  6. Have you checked if maybe your $5 Aliexpress "alarm" is faulty? I'd start by confirming the output from the module with a multimeter.

     

    Secondarily, have you considered that maybe trusting your car's security (and safe operation, cos when the ignition switches off at 100kph in the middle of the night, whoops) to a cobbled together collection of s*** that was probably assembled by child labour at 3am is maybe not ideal?

    • Like 1
  7. 20 hours ago, Gripless said:

    2) The water in out to turbo is on the same side which according to page 49ish of the BW tech guide is a big no no and water can’t circulate

     

    bruh, lol

     

    I mean come on.

     

     

    Re. the oil drain bits, AFAIK due to the tiny inlet restrictor built into the bearing housing these don't need to drain that much? The tech manual seems to think a fitting with ~0.4" bore into a 1/2" drain line is adequate.

  8. Plugging in a random ECU with an unknown tune and turning the key is a kinda terrible idea and it is 0% surprising that the car won't run with it. If the ECU was mapped for, say, a race car with 2000cc injectors and you're running stock 440s or something it's never going to run.

    I'd start by flashing a base map (if you can find a computer with a version of PCLink that will still talk to a PossumLink).

     

    Actually, no. I'd start by putting the PossumLink in a museum and installing an ECU from this millennium so your tuner doesn't hate you.

    • Like 1
  9. There will be catted and uncatted variants depending on the destination market. If you're uncatted it will probably have a 2-letter prefix on the model code, probably TA- (and nowadays would be unable to import the car due to emissions laws), catted probably 3-letter prefix.

  10. Yeah nah there's heaps with catted uppipes around. Loads of GDA/GGA WRXs had them AFAIK.

    Part number is 44104FE010 and Forry XT of that era is listed as having one too.

    Best bet is to find a stock STI uppipe of the same era, or I guess an older one would work fine too?

  11. Yeah I'm currently doing loop-de-loops with Toyota cos I had my bumper off 10 months ago to fix the corner someone backed a boat into, now the whole front radar/collision detection/blah is packing a s*** and everyone is pointing the finger at each other. Extremely complex systems that apparently have to be just right, no wonder there's just a blanket "thou shalt not futz with this" rule. Honestly I think it would be hard enough to modify those areas without causing constant faults, let alone the legality.

    • Like 2
  12. If the rebuild was 23kk ago how come the cambelt's let go already, please tell me someone didn't rebuilt the shortblock and slap the same belt back on...

     

    Pistons are probably fine unless you smacked a valve so hard the head of it came off and bounced around the chamber for a while, in which case the block is probably toast too. We bought a motor that had seized the cambelt (when the chassis rail hit the cam pulley, lol) and the head itself and pistons were ok, just needed valves.

    10/14 hours labour feels pretty light for engine out and rebuild heads? But then the parts cost shouldn't be massive either.

    • Like 1
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