boon

Or it's been through 4 manufacturer recalls to stop all the oil falling out or the water pump going on strike at random.

Tell that to my Nissan with 4xx000 on it... or @DRFVDR's old Troopy which had like 600000 or something mad like that. High k's are fine on everything if well maintained, I've seen a V7 STI with over 300k on the original motor. EDIT: Also lol, euros aren't generally OK at any KMs. My friend has owned 2x S4's and both have shat the bed in incredibly expensive ways at under 100000, and he is fastidious about looking after them.

Something sticking in the throttle assembly at a guess... IACV s***ting the bed? Dunno how that would affect the clutch though. Also check your throttle plate is operating smoothly through the full range of travel.

Probably be cheaper, and a better end product, to sell the S-GT and buy one where Mr Subaru did the "make it look like an STI" for you.

For some perspective, I bought a V3 GF8 WRX in arguably better condition and 140000kms for $3400 _in 2009_. 11 years ago. Back then an STI was like $5k. I honestly can't see how these somewhat rough, non-collectable cars have appreciated in the interim.

That'll be why both the front and back bumpers are wonky and the window line on the driver's side has a bloody step in it Seriously, the front bumper, grill, and headlights look like someone threw them at the car and went "good enough!" The steering wheel is flogged out too. And there's some random wiring dangling from by the driver's right knee. This is from a 30 second eyeball of a trademe auction. People seem to want absolute drug money these days for relatively s****y cars. Hang on to your money and wait for the right car to come along, or you'll pay over the odds for a probably lemon.

Even if it's an STI, how on earth is a pre-V3, relatively rough, with nearly 200000kms on the body and driveline if not the motor, worth $7000??

I still don't follow... so the bolts are larger than the holes in the backing plate? Do the Brembo-equipped cars get a different backing plate?

Err, got a pic? Is it literally just that the bolts are too short?

My STI did this one day. Turned out the driver's floor mat had bunched up under the clutch and wouldn't allow it to go in far enough to activate the switch. What was wrong with yours in the end?

Minor like a broken back Either the video doesn't show something, or the guy didn't even really turn in, or he's running the worst tires in the world, wtf. That corner looked trivial at the speed he was going.

If you were going to run any equipment that Subaru didn't originally put on a car somewhat similar to yours. Basically, if you deviated sufficiently far from the factory specification that you needed to tune it. But you're not going to get reliability at anything beyond the power levels some or another factory Subaru was capable of, so there's not much point going beyond factory spec (even if that's the "ultimate" factory spec of VF22/23/30/34 with 440cc injectors). There's so much you would need to change to go reliably beyond about 300 crank horsepower (starting with the block) that, unless you're going to change all of those things, you may as well just run a factory ECU.

Devil's advocate? Putting in a G4+ and getting it tuned won't see any change from about $2500. Lot of money to throw at a car that literally won't make it any faster than a boost tap would. Get a VF23/24 (or even a VF30) and a STI ECU and set of yellows as above. About the best you're going to get out of it; you're so limited by about 20 different things that make a G4+ not worth the investment unless you have big big plans down the road.

Turn your Subaru off some time and then open the bonnet and have a listen. The little header tank thing acts as a siphon and continues to slowly draw water through the turbo. You can hear it gurgling.

Yeah to be fair if you're just flashing a "this is for a stock motor" kinda tune you should be more or less OK, there's so much margin built into these motors that you're likely to still be well within the safe zone - and it sounds like you're going to do it fairly conservatively. I mean realistically, look how many of these things are getting around with a boost tap and a poddy getting caned on 91 octane completely un-tuned.

"Ok here's your new tune, flash that and then go do some logging" "Right, went for a drive, here's the log file" "Oh yes, very nice, you can see just here where it started to knock furiously and smashed the bottom end bearing to little pieces" "Cool, thanks"

Product sounds cool enough, but I will add a note to say that E-tuning is for people who hate their cars and want to spend lots and lots of money buying a new motor.

Annoying when complete bottom-feeder morons think they can hot-wire a modern chip-key immobilised car. I would start with replacing the antenna but you may need to replace the whole ignition bit, which is a pain in the arse for a variety of reasons.

The wing looks friggin glorious, makes me want to paint and fit mine.

I've got the exact same button. It's for the parking corner marker thing. Pretty sure it's an extremely common aftermarket model.

Or the sidewalls will actually be straight up and down so the tyre will have some structure rather than slopping about like a jellyfish?

Uhhh 225s on a 9.5" rim, why are we are looking at anything other than your incorrect tyre fitment? The contact patch is herp derping about because your sidewalls are probably at about 45 degrees. Get tyres that actually fit on your rim. Your current combination isn't even legal (https://www.lvvta.org.nz/documents/infosheets/LVVTA_Info_01-2009_V3_Tyre_Size_to_Wheel_Size_Compatibility_Guide.pdf) Jesus, going loop-de-loop on handling mods while running a frankly stupid tyre setup, what's the point?

You can bet your right testicle that the very first thing a dodgy tuner does when an engine goes full grenade on them is removes the previous change they made in the ECU. "Nah I just ran it up to 3000rpm and it went boom, wasn't even on boost at the time" How are you going to prove otherwise?

99% of dyno operators have a frankly bewildering disclaimer that basically says they could pull the head off your motor and squeeze out a giant f***ing turd inside your block and it wouldn't be their fault. For a fairly expensive "premium" service they somehow get away with murder, imagine if you took your car to a panelbeater and their disclaimer was like "we may completely ruin your paint and dent all of your panels". Although on the other hand, there's probably too much risk of shed-built piles of s*** exploding and then being blamed on the tuner.

Dyno run or tune? Talk to SAS in Christchurch, they can probably help you source a motor.