boon

Actually, you "flushed the engine"... Howso? Just dumped the oil or ran some sort of product in the oil first?

You are thinking way too much.

Just pay the $20 or whatever and get an olive fitting hose end thingymabob so your factory line ends in a -6AN fitting. https://speedflow.com.au/an-male-to-tube-adapter-from/ as an expensive example, 5/16 to -6AN (assuming factory is indeed 5/16) Better than springing a fuel leak somewhere down the road.

I would say ballpark $1000? I feel like a day's labour and a couple of hundred bucks worth of sundries, maybe add a little more on for oil/filter and anything else you decide to freshen up at the time.

Ha, what a joke. In my GF8 I actually biffed that wheel for the (IMO) much nicer Momo one from a Legacy of a similar age.

Considering you had basically written the money off, that's like.... a dozen free beers and a couple of free good steaks every week for 18 months. Bloody result.

Does it change with RPM? Might have drowned the idler bearing on the pulley thing on one of the accessory belts. You'll know the one when you look at the front of the motor. You can get a replacement for the complete pulley, including the bearing, for like $40 at Repco off the top of my head. I'd give you the part number but I literally got rid of the box last week after doing mine several years ago. EDIT: It's actually pretty hard to drown a stock one of these motors... the snorkus thing has a couple of strategically placed holes that are there to stop it slurping water up. If you keep RPM low and therefore airflow low you would have to be most of the way up the headlights before it took a big ol drink.

Dare I say it but "I told you so"?

How on earth does the head gasket fail on a 50000km car Maybe find out how much a complete motor would cost you, you might be surprised. When I cooked the head on my Hilux years ago it was considerably cheaper to buy another motor, especially when you consider that you're paying the labour for the engine to come out and go back in anyway.

Kinda stupid though isn't it, they should just buy one that Mr. Subaru put a turbo on at the factory. List of ways to get a turbo Subaru, sorted by cost: -Buy a turbo subaru -Swap turbo bits into a N/A Subaru, then get a cert -Swap turbo bits into a N/A Subaru, then go to the trouble of all sorts of dodgy s*** like swapping tags from a real turbo Subaru that you should have just bought in the first place.

How exactly do you propose getting away with a larger engine and a turbo without a cert? Just swap the N/A 1.8L in each time you go for a WoF? I mean yeah you could get a sloppy as WoF guy who failed to notice it was a turbo, but you also have to consider the vehicle would be 100% uninsurable in that state.

It's not worth doing. You'll have to cert it as well. If you can't afford a GF8, then you can't afford to EJ20T-swap a GF6.

Not the full length of the car, though...

99% sure that's a WRX. Non red manifold is a giveaway. See if you can work out what the turbo is too. If it was an STI it would have some other dead giveaways like a 6 speed and STI interior bits. EDIT: It may have had an STI bonnet put on it. STI bonnet should be alloy, I believe the others are steel?

I think it does f*ck all unless you're full racecar and the car is low as a low low thing, and you're driving on a race-track smooth surface. Otherwise the turbulence under the car is a joke anyway. I think for fuel economy you would spend more on making up a flat bottom than you would ever save in gas. EDIT: This also completely throws out the window that Subaru spent a whole pissload of R&D on designing a bunch of aero for your car already; for example the gearbox tunnel creates a low-pressure area at the rear of the engine bay that is intended to draw air down through the intercooler and past the turbo; if you put a full under-car tray on this would probably become a high-pressure zone instead due to all the air coming in through the bonnet scoop having nowhere to go. Amateur aero is more or less a complete waste of time on the road.

Are you wondering if it's actually an STI rather than a 20K? Only the STI got the 207. Pic of the engine bay? EJ207 of that era will have intake AVCS (I think only some of the EJ205s got this, but could be wrong), red manifold, empty TGV shells on the intake runners, pink 565 top feed injectors, VF30 turbo, larger STI intercooler. There are probably some other differences that I don't know about.

Oh yeah there's nothing to those older ones. Modern 2.5 would tow it just fine.

Per the above, I believe the factory COP setup is sufficient even for a lot more power than that, I've never really heard of people going to aftermarket coils for these.

That seems like stuuuupid money for the 2005 if I'm honest, unless it's a top-spec NZ model and immaculate. How big is a small boat? We used to tow a 14.5ft alloy boat around with a 3.0 and it went really really well, but if you go too much bigger the gearbox starts to suffer a bit. Mind you I know a bloke that towed a much heavier 5.5m boat all over the country with his and it didn't seem to mind too much. EDIT: Also worth investigating some of the trim level differences... for example quite a lot of the NZ 3.0's got a ?plate? rear differential which will make a big difference for skifield roads and pulling a boat up a s****y boat ramp.

Doesn't do anything unless you bottom out the strut. It just stops the strut bottoming out so hard; in theory your bump stops should be stopping the travel of the arms before the strut reaches the end of its travel. It's tapered to provide a progressive stop when you bottom out. It's really, really hard to bottom out an unladen stock-height BP/BL, especially if it's on Bilsteins. I don't think I've ever managed it in our BPE, but then I don't drive it terribly hard.

Weird, my BPE chews out the inside corners like good Subarus do. First place to look would be the camber (obviously) followed by the toe. Usually you see too much toe-in causing scrubbing of the inside edge, maybe you've got toe-out?

wtf is a Gen4?

There are two factors: 1, inflation. A complete pile of s*** costs more $ now than it did 5 years ago because the $ is worth less, not because the car is worth more. 2, the fact that tidy original WRXs are genuinely increasing in value makes stupid people think that their dinged-up, badly resprayed, poorly modded s***ter is also increasing in value. And then other stupid people think so too, and buy said overpriced turd, thus making beat up s***ters increase in value when they don't deserve to.

One thing I love about swapping out all those funny little interior lights for LEDs... you could leave them on for a week and your battery probably wouldn't notice.

The little bottom out damper thing that sits on the shock's shaft? Meh, take it or leave it.