logan25

Running on 100 now, reset the ECU and done a few short drives to get the IAM to move. Heres hoping it stays this way, time will tell

ADM and JDM reading should be the same process. I use a cheap VAGCOM Ftdi cable which is just a cheap version of tactrix, but for logging only. I also used tactrix cable in the past and it works fine. Use rom raider software, make sure you download both ECU definition files, and also Logger definition files, and specify them in Romraider. Open the logger section, and then select learning view, after 5 or so seconds should pop up a new window with all the data. No need to bridge any pins, straight plug in and read data via romraider

You were correct, I did find a small split in the air duct prior to the throttle body. Used some glue and filler to get it air tight back up. Somewhat of an improvement in the air flow figures, thats after an ECU reset and 1 hour of mixed driving and idling. Still baffles me with the IAM,

Romraider, looking at 'learning view'. Yeah I agree. It runs absolutey fines, no issue what so ever, was more just somewhat alarmed to see the dropped IAM value. My old man was running 91 in an older outback EZ30, somehow that is still surviving upto the high 200,000 kms and still going. My one on the other hand will be getting far nicer treatment...

Hi all, After a stint overseas I am back in New Zealand and picked up a 2007 3.0R NZ New 6 speed wagon a few months back. Finally ordered a obd2 cable to look at its data, and found the LV data below. My main concern is the IAM value, also have the negative air flow values which I will try track down any leaks. Just seeing if this is someone normal for the EZ30 engine here using NZ fuel, I am currently using 95, may have to consider 100, what do others use here? I used 100 in my previous GT, which got the IAM upto 1.0, do these EZ30 need it as well? Or is that IAM value normal for an untuned EZ30? Thanks (Edit: I looked around on here for more on the IAM, I see others had issue with EZ30s had IAMs down to 0 and 0.5, maybe 0.6 is acceptable??)

Clean the throttle butterfly? I had an impreza which was auto but had a terrible idle as well, wanting to cut out when A/C ticked on, cleaned the butterfly and after new idle relearn much better.

I randomly get the same in winter. Seems when temp is approaching zero, all I can imagine is it saying caution icy roads or something like that. Never in warm temperatures.

$7,000 is quite high for a 6 speed with that amount of kms on it.

Having a go at re-doing the Nexus 7 install in the legacy. This time I have a better condition Nexus 7 2013 LTE model and using an FTDI chip based VAGCOM cable. Running the timurs rom, OTG cable, FI mode etc etc. When ignition off, I notice the OBD2 port is still powering the Cable (red LED on). From memory my old cable never used to have this issue. When switching off the ignition it would all power down the cable as well. Have I missed something here, or should I chuck a relay on the OBD2 port wires so the live battery wire is only active when ACC on so it doesn’t drain the battery too much ?

More to finish this thread off and to help those in future if you had negative fuel trims at idle like me. So throughout all my testing I always had two MAF's which were known to be good and clean as were placed on other legacies and read fine after many kms of driving. What finally seemed to have swung my fuel trims to the zero or close about on the stock rom was a combination of things. One day I replaced the spark plugs, air filter and gave the MAF cleaner an extremely good clean for 10 mins. Since then the fuel trims seem to behave. The air filter in it seemed to be some repco brand so put in an OEM subaru one. Hoping is stays like this, makes it easier for the tune process.

For anyone running the brembo's for the legacy (such as the stock ones on tbsti or s402 etc), is this the correct part number for the front for the Bendix Ultimates? DB1678-ULT Or is it DB1379 ULT

Correct, picture attached below.

So pulled the plugs and found the culprit. All the gaps were perfect, around 0.7mm ish. One plug had in fact a small hairline crack in it, which I can only assume happened during install, even though was very careful. Regardless I chucked an old plug in to test, and pulls like it used too. Ordered another and back on with the tune tomorrow once it arrives.

Might have to pull them and check. First time I have done plugs so will learn for next time. Romraider reports no misfire, but it feels like it.

Anyone got feedback for these plugs? I replaced the plugs yesterday with ILFR6B, which the NGK website and book said to use for the EJ20Y. Running now, get a nasty hesitation above 3,000rpm all through the power range on boost. I reverted back to stock tune, used my original coils etc and still does it, only thing that has changed is new plugs. Now I check the FSM and they say to use SILFR6A for the turbo model? Would this cause the nasty hesitation when on the boost? Originally the car was running LFR6AIX-P. Thoughts?

New spark plugs and another set of coils for the Legacy. Once I fumbled around and finally found the correct extension wasn't too bad.

So changed the fuel pump, not too much luck I don't think. Funnily enough the stutter is slowly coming back to the car at 2,800 rpm. But with regards to the fueling issue with negative trims, check out the 2 logs below. They both show the car at idle after a short drive, starts at -10, and while sitting there drops down to -5 range, then after a short drive around the driveway creeps upto -8. They tend to be all over the place. https://drive.google.com/open?id=1QAp-LFdftk-EgqxnqcAdxJpWRznpNiMX https://drive.google.com/open?id=1jhO4ItHK2TCMIL_74REzZEpaynWz7CXU Before that I made a smoke machine to recheck for intake leak, nothing, as the boost leak test showed as well. I have just started the tuning process with Dave and awaiting his first Map to be sent.

Where did you guys get the steering wheel CC buttons? Cheers

It always feels ECU limited. For example, just as the temperature (from memory 65 degrees or so) approached the end of the blue light it could pull high boost, but the very second the blue light disappeared it would limit it self back to low boost as soon as you reapplied the throttle. The process was almost instant. Always had me puzzled why it was like this.

In a bit off an off topic question regarding SI Drive. When the car is cold (ie blue coolant light on), and operating in intelligent mode, why is it the car boosts more, than when warm? From memory, a warm car in intelligent peaks around 3-4 psi boost, but mine when it is cold will let it go upto 12 ish if the foot is flat. I never let it do it usually but have noticed it can. Seems like ECU is reading something backwards. This seems odd since it should be limiting boost more while cold (considering Sport # cant be selected). Also, after a drive on the open road to the supermarket, did a LV shot, and have seen the lowest fuel trim reading since I have owned this car. Hopefully it keeps dropping in this trend...

For the who do the Turbo Banjo Bolt filter in future. You do need to take off the turbo, as its connected to the same supply line as the AVCS Banjo's (I think that what they are). Mine was surprisingly clean for 180,000km, but still glad to have got it done. Also changed all the intake piping that runs post MAF to Turbo - Just in case it was leaking. That was more of a mission, getting those pesky clamps off which are underneath the intake manifold.

Banjo bolt filter removal more just preventive work. Not related to the fuel issue above. Did work on an 04 a few months ago which lost its turbo due to blocked banjo filter. Actually it chewed through 3 turbos on the previous owner within 200km. Thats an option I can explore regarding fuel pressure. Will have to wait for the shops to open up again. I see the fuel pump can be access under the seat. I might just replace it tomorrow as have a ‘carcass’ of another 06 LGT sitting there. Needs to be taken to a scrapyard anyway soon.

Yes everything is still stock. Have replaced both the MAF and O2 sensor before, boost leak test done by Crowesport etc. Had replaced the fuel injectors, redone the intake manifold seals, change intercooler. Nothing fixed, last we decided was just to tune it to see if it goes away. After all the work I did, it did drop from 15 to 13 and recently to 9-11 range. Question regarding the banjo bolt for the turbos. On the facelift models, can these be taken out with the turbo still on? I know they have their own oil supply line, compared to the prefacelift which it was shared and difficult to get at. Wondering if the turbo banjo bolt filter will be a easy job or need to pull the entire turbo off. Will let dave know prior to tuning to we can start in the right direction. So you just essentially installed a stock 07 image and tuned from that?

So I changed over the FPR, initial testing seems to have got ridden of the stutter, but again, from previous experience I won't know if its fixed until done 100km or so. Been doing laps around the drive way to suffice for now. Finally got Rom Raiders LV to work. Before doing the work, my fuel trim highest was -13.5. After doing the work, dropped to 9.5-10.8. Why the fueling numbers are out are still so negative are beyond me. Maybe my next task is to pull the turbo off, and while I am there get the banjo bolt filter out. Out of curiosity, when doing logging, what data value should I be using (4 byte or 2 byte etc). When selecting both, give slightly different values. Log: https://drive.google.com/open?id=12-rqXJYHLUH1T5PfLt0l9q0kKnsicB-p Edit: Just repurchased a tactrix cable, might just bite the bullet and get it properly tuned once and for all, especially now I have lots of free time. Will be interesting to see if Dave can tune this ECU. In my initial contact with him he opened it and said he could tune it.

When I say 'Resit' which fixes it, I mean all I do is pull off the Vacuum line of the FPR, then simple put it back on. It may sound ridiculous but it genuinely does fix it for the next 100km or so, which has me puzzled.