Omsin
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Posts posted by Omsin
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14 hours ago, Firenza said:
Did the stereotypical Subaru mod and fitted the Hella supertones, but adult part of my brain made me make them stealthy
Also replaced one of the front axle seals as its was leaking, but didnt bother taking photos of that!
I've always wanted a louder horn, I don't like the idea of blocking off such a large portion of the radiator tho. I'm looking at an air horn kit and mounting them behind the bumper beam / out of the way
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11 hours ago, Gripless said:
rallysportdirect have a sale so likely ordered it more parts.
perrin 25% off
crawford 25% off and 30% on AOS
15% off everything else with the code at the top of their site.
Noooooo they fixed it. Crawford 10% off nowwas 32% and 15% on top.
They hiked up their shipping prices not too long ago
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10 hours ago, StellaWrx said:
Hi what needed up happening with this? Did Armstrong fix it?
I had my recall done for this last week.
I believe all they do is replace a relay as the relays in certain cars had the problem of not turning off which means the pump would stay on and potentially burn out
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39 minutes ago, Joker said:
Bump for Nov 19
Cars are going to Fail WOFS from NEXT year if you've been affected & not sorted
yep I started this thread back in 2015
Got mine sorted yesterday
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10 hours ago, NTYCME said:
I got stuff from them years ago, any one can by emailling
Its cheaper to get a few people keen though
If theres a few people I can sort it
Shipping is about $250 but they can fit 2-3 lips per package if you want to do small group buys. Trouble is then that the combined packages exceeds the customs allowance and the whole order is charged 15% tax and import fees of around $60
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while the width doesn’t really matter too much, 9.5+ Kiwami are deep concave, below 9.5 is medium concave, 7.5 would be very low concave which would also play a part in clearing the face of the brakes.
i would say the issue is more the offset.
i had 9.5 +38 which cleared brembos with a little bit of extra clearance.
if you need to you can get a small spacer worse case scenario
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11 hours ago, sleepr said:
Lol nah, they said they dont have them in stock but can get it in a week. Yea insane is a understatement. I think they mistook car for a truck 😛
I think they misunderstood car for a train
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If you’re basically never going to the track then I wouldn’t say you intend to track. People take stock cars to the track and don’t have issues, even aftermarket coilovers intended for the street can attend track days with no issues. When people say “track” more often than not it’s not an actual track day, it’s a non racing / play day on a track - 10-20min sessions.
When a manufacturer or equivalent hears you say track days, they assume you mean full on racing with subjecting the car to a lot of repetitive abuse for extended amounts of time.
i have 6/6 on my Wrx and I would say it’s pretty stiff, I wouldn’t want it any stiffer for a daily driver ( I could probably soften my damping more if I had slightly stiffer springs tho). Factory STI suspension is only around 5 I believe
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16 hours ago, Bobby said:
I wouldn't try to tune a stock vehicle, and that is the risk of dyno tuning.
If they built your motor and setup, and they then blow it up it is a different story.
Consumer Guarantees Act covers new products, and I am pretty sure that trying to modify a stock vehicle from standard would void it.
I mentioned the act in regards to providing services, not in regards to selling a product. The same basic principles around selling a product that’s fit for purpose etc applies to a business providing a “service”.
That could a tradesman building a “new” deck or someone removing your “old” house for transport. If they f*** it up and it’s because of negligence then they haven’t provided a fair or expected level of service.
Automotive example, a mechanic charges you $1000 to fix your car. You drive home and 5minutes down the road you discover it’s got the same fault. He’s charged you $1000 to replace the wrong part and you still need to fix the problem.
Easier scenario, car shop strips / cross threads your lug nuts putting your wheels back on. In my case I made the shop replace my studs because they over tightened them
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The best setup I’ve had the pleasure of owning was 17x8 and 17x9 on my old R34 Skyline, fitment with a large sidewall never looked perfect but it gripped and went over bumps well. All I did with suspension was a set of Tein springs on stock struts too.
19x9.5 and 10.5 on my 350Z was surprisingly good but I think that’s down to the design of the body and rwd. The WRX is a long and fairly soft chassis design which awkwardly rolls it weight around in stock form.
but yeah, like I said I got these wheels second hand so I didn’t get to choose ideal specs (also not much choice for second hand 5x100 wheels).
Looking at Re003 Potenzas in the correct size
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I bought the wheels used with the tyres already fitted (off a slammed S-GT lmao), trust me i think stretched tyres look ghetto AF and I'm all about square well fitted wheels 😁
I understand physics, although i can't explain it - i know flex is good on a tyre (not to say you should get the softest tyre you can find, its within reason)
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1 hour ago, Andy_Mac said:
What's the front camber like? That rolling tyre feeling is often due to not enough camber so when turning all the weight is pushing on the outer edge rather than flat across the whole trye
Pretty flat looking at the car, I've had a few wheel alignments over the last few months and I've gone over it a few times regarding a more sport oriented setup - apparently the alignment is to factory spec and "any changes are just going to chew through tyres" - that was when I was asking if they could zero the front toe as opposed to them being slightly positive to compensate for the wheels wanting to push backwards at speed.
Does make sense now thinking about the camber, the tyres are wearing faster on the outside edges.
What's a good number for front camber? I don't want to lose too much straight line stability @Andy_Mac
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I've spent the last few weeks fine tuning the sway bar vs coilover settings, I've even gone so far as to play around with the tyre pressures based on the wear I was starting to see
I've finally found the sweet spot with the coilovers, sway bars and tyre pressures. (i think).
Front:
Sway Bar: 22.5mm Coilover Damping: Medium/soft, Tyres: 40 PSI
Rear:
Sway Bar: 22mm, Damping: Firm/medium, Tyres: 38PSI
I still have one last gripe, its that it feels like my front tyres are trying to roll under the rim on flat or off camber corners (basically any corners which don't promote grip).
Could it be that I need to lower the car more? I had initially set the ride height lower but after a lot of online research I found that its better for these cars to sit at stock ride height or in my case a 10-20mm drop (basically the stock ride height of an STI is ideal). BUT I have the Whiteline roll centre kit so would I need to lower my car more to offset the raise of roll centre in the front? (I had't fine tuned everything when I first lowered the car so i'm not sure how it would compare).
The only other thing I can think of is the 225/40 tyres on my 9.5" wide 18" wheels, I am looking at 255/35 or 265/35 tyres soon.
I should also have STI front lower control arms and an ALK for them coming soon.
Anyway, thoughts? leave ride height alone or lower it a tad more or wait until I have proper size tyres on?
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4 minutes ago, TNHSTI said:
Totally agree here although thankfully I haven't had my vehicle blown up on a dyno I can confirm their disclaimer is bs
35 minutes ago, boon said:99% of dyno operators have a frankly bewildering disclaimer that basically says they could pull the head off your motor and squeeze out a giant f***ing turd inside your block and it wouldn't be their fault. For a fairly expensive "premium" service they somehow get away with murder, imagine if you took your car to a panelbeater and their disclaimer was like "we may completely ruin your paint and dent all of your panels". Although on the other hand, there's probably too much risk of shed-built piles of s*** exploding and then being blamed on the tuner.
I see...
There is the consumer guarantees act or fair trading act, which no matter what you sign and what a service provider says, cannot be opted out of.
I think if you could somehow prove they provided inadequate service or incompetence (aka they f***ed up a setting or whatever) then they would be liable. I wouldn't know where to start if it happened to me but there must be something you could do if it was in fact the tuners fault. More reason to stick with reputable shops!!!
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What happens in this situation? Car blows up while being tuned?
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51 minutes ago, Colem2212 said:
Howdy guys I have a s5 model has been off the road for about 8 months and the battery die in the 2month now getting back into it and got it all going but now I'm having a problem with the arming and disarm put my code in and starts up allgood what could be my problem cheer in advance for the advice
Do you have the little security key to turn the module off?
Turn the security key on the unit off / onWait for the immobiliser to turn on (solid blue light) Disarm immobiliser using alarm remote. Lock and unlock the car using factory key. Once unlocked with factory key then arm with the alarm remote.
When I take my battery out I have to play around with the alarm when it goes back in. Because the alarm remote won’t lock or unlock the doors. Resetting the alarm module with the security key and then syncing the central locking with the alarm remote works for me
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Yamaha R1? 😁😁😁
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48 minutes ago, Timmah said:
Gave painting one of my calipers a crack, photo makes it look OK
Looks way too glossy for high temp paint, coats might be too thick or is the paint not dry yet? You’ll get a more uniform finish if you start with light coats and then go a little bit heavier once you’ve got something for the paint to build up on, definitely need to allow time between coats for it set though.
You could try using a sanding block over the Subaru wording if you want some contrast? Raw metal on black -
19 minutes ago, RepNZ said:
Excess refund
a. We will refund your excess if:
i your claim relates to an accident with another vehicle, and
ii we can confirm that the person driving your vehicle was completely free of blame, and
iii you can give us the registration number of the other vehicle and the name and address of the other driver, and
iv the other driver acknowledges his or her involvement in the accident to us.
No excess
a. You do not have to pay any excess:
i if you have chosen the ‘Nil excess’ option, or
ii if your claim is for loss or damage to a trailer only, or
iii for any claim under the section ‘Cover for your legal liability’ (see pages 8 – 9), unless an excess is specified in the Policy Schedule for such claims, or
iv for ‘Glass excess buy-out’ (see page 6), or
v for ‘Accidental death or permanent disability compensation’ (see page 6), or
vi for ‘Medical expenses’ (see page 7).
Clauses in AMI's policy seems pretty useless; pretty much the onus is on me to provide the information and there seems to be no obligation for insurer to do anything to identify the offender.
What insurance company are you with? It seems like they have much better protection.
It was a few years ago now, its one of those insurance companies that car dealers use to give you "instant" cover when you drive off their car yard, you then have a week to arrange your own cover - their whole policy fitted on one piece of A4 paper haha.
I've been with AMI, they usually go the extra mile. I have the email address and phone number of a claims manager if you want to talk to someone a bit higher up who has more of an idea of what to do. (PM me).
You mentioned that the offender went to Hoyt's and bought tickets - if they used an eftpos or debit card then you have all the information their to identify them along with visual confirmation with the security camera. Your insurance company should be able to apply for the necessary paperwork to have that footage and card holder information released
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8 hours ago, NTYCME said:
Hey all
I've got a 3.0R manual wagon (BPE is it?) and for the last few months its been making a random noise
After I've been driving it for a bit when I turn sharply (as in in the driveway) it makes a clunking noise
It wont do anything after the 15-20min drive to work (city driving) but it will do it if I head out for say a half an hour drive on the open road. Could be heat related?
To me it sounds like I've got a locked dif lol
Any ideas?
Full lock turns is usually how you check for stuffed axles / cv joints - they will do it regardless of temp tho as its a mechanical thing (sloppy joint).
I'm just thinking out loud, could be your clutch? aka low speed, full lock - would be closer to stalling, more load on the drive-train turning at full lock etc.
When did you last change the tranny / diff fluid? (transaxle?).
I sometimes get a very slight clunking sound when I reverse in full lock out of my driveway (cold) but I think thats the AWD system and loose gravel coming into play (trying to get traction).
You can jack the car up and spin the wheels to feel/hear play in the bearings and c.v's etc
How many km's are on the car?
Last idea is that it could be the power steering perhaps - lots of things make similar noises haha
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The important part here is that hoyts have the card number of the offender and it can be tracked down that way. It's not so much a case of looking at a face and investigating. It's a case of accessing personal information held on an individual but protected under the privacy act.
Registration details are protected under the privacy act but insurance companies can access that information.
What you can do is go through the small claims court, but you would need to make sure that information at Hoyts won't be lost and is stored for you.
But again, your insurance company should be doing this for you, I would kick up a fuss with your insurance company.
You do not have to pay an excess for a claim if you can provide information identifying the other party for your insurance company to hold them accountable, your insurance company should be putting in the leg work for you, thats what you pay them for.
I had an issue a few years ago with someone who provided a fake number and address at the scene of an accident they caused. My insurance company asked me to pay an excess at the end of the repair and i refused, saying i had identified the other driver and passed on all the information for them to use to seek payment from the other person.
It turned out the number was disconnected, the address was vacant - insurance never got a reply or was able to talk to the other guy. Because of this they couldn't confirm he was at fault because he didn't provide his side of the story or accept my version of events.
In my policy however it clearly stated that my insurance company only needed to establish who the other party was to dismiss payment of an excess if i believed i wasn't at fault. In their email trail to me they said they had established who the other party was but couldn't get hold of them - bingo, no excess ( i had to point that out lol).
Long story short, fight your insurance company. They are lazy f***ers who just want your money, but they work for you. There is an insurance overseer who can help with disputes if you believe your insurer isn't providing adequate service and you want to take it further.
If it was as easy as just ignoring the law to get away with a crime then the world would be f***ed, people are just lazy and you have to fight to get s*** done when stuff like this happens (police dont care, insurance passes the buck).
You can report a non injury accident, it doesn't mean police have to investigate but you do need a reference number from police so when insurance talks to them there is a paper trail to work with. Usually you tick a box saying "no i dont want police to investigate with the intent of laying charges", you tick the box saying it is an insurance matter or some s***, its a technicality more than anything - without it insurance can't talk to police
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Small claims court, pay fee - take a court date. Present your case, including itemised quotes (more than one). The judge takes a few days to think about the case, response is mailed to you. Once awarded payment etc you can get it enforced at your local court house / dispute tribunal. Sometimes the defendant will make arrangements and pay via instalments to the court who then pays you.
I’ve taken Luxurysports to small claims over a defective product and was awarded a full refund, they paid it pretty quick.
I’ve also gone through it with a lady who crashed into my car and avoided all contact / liability for it and then tried to say I crashed into her. A year later I went to disputes tribunal with my insurer and as far as I know she’s now being chased by the courts to pay my old insurer.
It can be a long process if the other person is a muppet. You can request that your personal information isn’t shared to the other party when the court documents are served (address etc are normally plastered all over them). Threats you would have to show the Police and issue a protective order (they get arrested if they violate it)
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11 hours ago, IZichard said:
https://mcasuspension.com/products
MCA have redone their website to reflect the new products and complete lineup. Worth checking out since they have their new Voston Mach1/Mach2 which I guess is designed to compete with cheaper alternatives. It also explains the 'elite' products and how they differ from the standard.
What’s shipping like? I imagine these would be quite expensive once you add customs and shipping on top?
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24 or 22mm solid adjustable bars seem to be the go to for the majority of people and can be fine tuned for your driving style . Larger bars aren’t “usually” beneficial on typical road cars.
If you’re getting coils i would start off with those and then work out if you want sways. Stock STI’s sways might end up being enough for you.
With the adjustable sways you can dial in the under or over steer or make the car neutral.
More important would be replacing your suspension components with spherical bushings if you wanted the best handling and feedback
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Also replaced one of the front axle seals as its was leaking, but didnt bother taking photos of that!
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What have you done to your car today?
in General Vehicle Discussion
Posted
Most headlight restorer kits come with a UV treatment to lock in the finish If you wanted a long term solution. Otherwise you could get away with using a “sealant” instead of a wax for better protection.
ultimate way to do this would be to get them clear coated now that the plastic is fresh and exposed