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Sweenz

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Posts posted by Sweenz

  1. 1 hour ago, Technikhaus said:

     

    We don't find it all too bad to be honest, not sure how it'll be with the cat-less down pipe though, we'll find that out tonight. 
    And yeah, sorry but we don't know you, so don't know what you do and don't know, safer for me to assume nothing, and then it might help others of less knowledge later down the track that may read this thread :) 

    Great to have someone here who knows their stuff though, so welcome!

     

    I was in two minds with the Q300 about cutting out of old mid resonator and putting the biggest one I could find in. But decided to go stock, and research a bit more.. I will probably just buy another bike for my loud thrills though haha

     

    No worries, should've just included the boost graph also!

    • Like 1
  2. 1 hour ago, Gripless said:

     

    Sorry my mind read skills aren’t great


    Peak is likely a couple of factors:

    1) slight overboost or solenoid map not fully sorted

    2) same as NA the runner length is usually set up for highway speed cruising so there is a dip around 3000-3500 rpm especially on the v11. 

    3) smoothing on graphs not turned on as it’s from the live data screen, plus hub dyno so it picks up way more. 

    Also those graph scales are not idea for viewing, they are distorted to show up changes while using the dyno.  If you output the graph so they are 4x wider than tall they'll look more in line with the cars real world feel. The car doesn’t feel like it has that much change at 3500 rpm I take it? Or is it stumbling?

     

     

    haha no worries, I guess I left out a few deets in my post.

     

    Ah right, the boost is a little bit unstable in this region... I may play with the PID tuning as it looks a bit too agressive. But I think you may be right that the runner length exacerbates it. I remember when we made a gsxr gokart back in the day we tuned the intake and exhaust so we had two peaks to spread it out. I guess the exhaust header and intake runners much be tuned for the same frequency in this case.

     

    It feels smoother than what it did for sure, before the tune it was a bit jerky. I actually thought it felt slower after the tune, but actually it was just the smoothness. Was just curious if it should be expected, but it seems like it is and you are right the scaling is quite bad so it makes it look worse than it really is.

  3. 11 minutes ago, Andy_Mac said:

     

    It’ll be the heat preventing it from holding longer, mine does the same thing. This is where meth injection or e85 would make a big difference.

     

    Some tuners would just pull it back so it makes a 20-30nm less peak but can hold it considerably longer and look flatter.

     

    49840568567_3e33e3d1ae_b.jpg49840267616_1f75156ce6_b.jpg

     

     

    Haha 98 is hard enough to find, let alone e85. I don't think I'd want to risk a meth setup on my daily either, just another thing to break.

     

    What mods were you running to achieve the 225kW? It's nice you have got yours Dynapack dyno'd so its a bit comparable.

  4. On 17/07/2020 at 3:48 PM, Niran said:

    Is yours a 2.5 or 2.0? 2.5L engines obviously have more displacement so will make a bit more power/torque.

     

    Not having a catback exhaust and intake make a decent difference. I'd say 20-30kw.

     

    Here is mine for reference:

    Invidia DP and Q300 catback

    3port solenoid

    Cold air intake

    Turbosmart IWG75 internal gate

    Water meth kit

     

    The blue line below is without the cat back, water meth and IWG internal gate

     

    They did a run for me with all the mods above and without the meth going - it made 237kw

     

    Red line is with all above mods and meth going - 254kw. 

     

    MTiKZFO.jpg

     

     

     

    Who tuned your car?

     

     

    My 2.0L got tuned at Prestige on a Dynapack.

     

    Yea I guess with the intake and catback I could pickup another 10-20wkw... but I may be getting old, the Q300 was unbearable with the drone.. and the i4 sound never really does it for me.

  5. On 17/07/2020 at 9:39 AM, Technikhaus said:

    Ours (2.0L) is going in for a tune in two weeks, similar mods, but a little extra, Perrin 76mm intake, PBMS Catless downpipe, and an Invidia R400. 
    It'll be tuned on 100 octane too, so will be interesting to see how it compares to yours. This will be tuned up in Christchurch at SAS. 


    We had it dyno'd when it first came into the country at the end of 2018, here's the completely factory dyno sheet, with boost, you can see what @Gripless was talking about here:

    stistockdyno.jpg

     

    I actually had a q300  but pulled it off after less than a week and returned stock. Way too loud with a catless downpipe, how can you handle the r400 noise? Is it just a weekend car?

     

    I know what the boost looks like, I have the same sheet as you.. I'm more interested in the 3500rpm region where my torque dips 70Nm in 1000 rpm... I'm just curious if that is normal, because the turbo is holding 20psi+ in that region. Is there some cam timing tuning which can spread that out, or that's just the turbo falling off a cliff in the compressor curve.

  6. On 16/07/2020 at 5:30 PM, Andy_Mac said:

    What dyno was that on? Some read considerably higher than others.

    Mine made 225wkw/506nm but that was on the DTech dyno which reads considerably lower than the PBMS rolling road one. Mods are essentially just a decatted downpipe and an intake, everything else was done for future proofing and not to make more power now.

     

    The aggressive torque drop off is pretty standard for these as they can't hold the 20+psi peak boost for long so it's a quick rise and fall. 

    A stock location 3071 is a decent choice depending on end goal. You’ll make somewhere around 250+wkw depending on accompanying mods.

     

    Yeah sorry, should of mentioned that is was a Dynapak hub dyno.

     

    I would've thought the dropoff would be more gradual, not like the plummet seen at 3500rpm, as the turbo holds 20psi until 5000rpm.

     

    I see a lot of people not happy with stock location turbos though, and I don't really want to drop tons of money with a twisted custom setup. 

  7. On 16/07/2020 at 5:04 PM, Gripless said:

    The engine isn’t running out of puff. The turbo is operating outside its efficiency point so builds up more heat so you either need a bigger turbo or inter cooler. 
    if you have a plot with boost on it you’ll see got up to 21ps at 4K rpm then it tails off to 15psi at high rpm as the turbo is small.
     

    if you set the max boost to 15 psi it’d make more power almost at the redline as it stays cooler through the rev range. But it would suck low down and feel slow as crap. I did that for fun. Lasted all of 20 minutes before I reverted it. 

     

    what you want is to have the biggest amount possible under the line on the dyno plot. That’s means it accelerates fast and throws you back into the seat. 
     

    215-220 kw is typical stock depends on the age of the car and fuel. 
    there are 300kw stock block STI but that’s the 2L version. 
    check out @Niran old topics for water meth and how much he made. Look for the pre insanity build not the 500wkw one. Same car though. 


    I know all this, I'm a mechanical engineer that has also done  some tuning courses, you don't need to explain basics. I was asking about the massive torque dip at 3500rpm, is it normal.

     

    Thanks for the info on stock block, my is a jdm 2.0l

  8. Have a DMH-Z5350BT in my car, couple with a CPLAY2air adapter. Super expensive compared to what the US get, and have to add the adapter as we don't get wireless carplay headunits.

     

    The screen is capacitive which is great, the buttons are a bit meh though... prefer them being on the bottom. It's also a pain if you don't have steering wheel controls for changing songs/volume.

    • Thanks 1
  9. Hey guys,

     

    Got my STI tuned today. It's basically stock except for a PBMS downpipe. It was 197,0 awkw @ 5438 rpm before and 217,6 awkw @ 5411 rpm after, which I'm quite happy with, it's definitely smoother and pulls harder throughout the rev-range. 

     

    The one thing I'm surprised how quickly the torque on these things fall off after the peak, the power actually drops around 3500rpm due to this. It's smoothened out with the tune, but still there (ignore speedcut in the before dyno pull).

     

    What sort of numbers do these things make typically? I saw one that got tuned by PBMS (w/ intake and catback) that made 225 awkw... if that's typical I'm pretty happy only being 7,4 kw down with an extra few k in my pocket.

     

    I guess the only logical next move (if I decide I need more ponies) is new turbo, such that it can breathe up top. Has anyone tried the GTX3071R bolt-on which PBMS has, or are there better alternatives? The stock injectors are already running pretty high, so I guess those would need to go along with the fuel pump. What is a realistic figure with the stock bottom end? 250 awkw? 300 awkw? What other supporting mods would need to be done.

     

    All my previous cars have been N/As which like to rev SW20 MR2, Accord Euro R, Golf R32  so it's quite strange to now have a car which is running out of breathe with 2000 rpm still to go.

    dyno.jpg

  10. Hey guys, 

     

    Seems like the Wellington region is a bit dead on here. New to Welly so would be keen to catch up with some locals members, especially to find out where the good roads are... I'm originally from the Coromandel and missing the roads up there.

     

    Hopefully we can sort a meet or even just a couple of people that want to catch up sometime soon

     

     

    • Like 1
  11. On 15/04/2019 at 9:04 AM, Pappu1 said:

    if you want something that is quiet and still have the flow, i would recomend the xforce quad tips unit

    almost like stock but has seen 300kw on the dyno

     

    Are they still quiet with a catless downpipe, maybe you have a video? I had a q300 with a pbms downpipe and it was too loud and droney.

    2 minutes ago, Andy_Mac said:

     

    I'm kinda considering the Q300 for mine, the current R400 is way too loud when bothering around for my liking. Or spend up a ’bit’ more and get a ARK GRiP or Grimmspeed one as the both look to be a lot nicer than Invidia stuff and promise to be less droney.

     

    The guy I bought my car off said the r400 was on another level when it comes to volume, he works at PBMS and their stage 3 pack is with a PBMS with a R400. If you are interested i'm passing through TGA tomorrow, I can drop off the exahust for you haha

  12. On 12/05/2020 at 7:49 PM, nihell said:

    Hi,

     

    First Im no guru or any subaruwiz 😂 . 
     

    Having it tune with or without replacing the downpipe will be beneficial but IMO having an aftermarket dp will make it far more better it will save you atleast another tune when you decide to get an aftermarket dp in the future.


    Intake apparently as per my tuner isnt really going to give you a big gain with the basic modification ive done so thats a saving for me. But if you want to have that intake noises then its up to you, seen a lot of good feedback on processwest intake.

     

    I went into catted downpipe as i just think that its the safer route rather than having paranoid with boost creep, thats just me tho but a lot of people will say catless are better and as long as its properly tuned you wont have a problem.

     

    ive went into catted and didnt have to replace my boost solenoid as it was suggested by the tuner.

     

    The modifications on my car is invidia r400, 3”catted downpipe, stock intake with KnN filter (washed out the oil first) , process west TMIC(better cooling and preventing heat soak)

    aem fuel pump.

     

    I went on to ecutek tune, just because ive heard a lot of good feedback about it not just here but even outside the country. They can offer you as well an app that you can use as an accesport like the cobb ones. 


     

     

     

    How much power is your car putting down... I guess it should be around 300awhp? and who tuned it?

     

    I'm surprised about not replacing the boost solenoid, it's usually one of the first things you should do before getting a tune. I'm probably going to throw one on with a fuel pump, where'd you pick up your AEM from?

    On 12/05/2020 at 11:01 AM, Greaver said:

     

    Well f*** that might not be the go then, don't want it setting off the alarm on my 33 when I start it in the garage lol

     

    I didn't realise the pitch stop increased NVH so much, did it make much difference to the feel of the car?

     

    Whats everyone's opinion on downpipe, decatting the standard one worth it or just go for PBMS twin scroll one at $599?

     

    The PBMS downpipe is raspy as f***, with a Q300 it drove me made how loud and droney it was. Even with the stock exhaust back on I can still hear rasp... Although its at a bearable level.

  13. On 28/06/2019 at 9:00 AM, nihell said:

    Hi omsin,

     

    it was from moonlight racing, i think they the only one can supply invidia here in nz. Its a bit of a wait too been waiting for approx a month now 😂 . Unless buying straight from aus, which i think will be more expensive and maybe have to pay any custom tax. NZKW offers lesser price, was thinking to get either the straight or their quad before because the price of the invidia are like doubled from their prices, if i went to that route i will have an exhaust and a tune already but theres not much reviews or vid about their exhaust and at the same time was digging in the r400 even before so might as well save more and get what you really want. 

     

    I don't know if you were still looking, but I have a grb q300 catback. It was too loud for me as a daily with a pbms downpipe so I removed it. Would let it go for $1000

  14. On 26/02/2019 at 9:08 PM, swamp said:

    I did my girlfriend's ford festiva headlights with 180g and 240g and cut and polished, turned out alright but would advise using finer grades after to get rid of scratches. Would be satisfying on yellow as hell lights. 

     

    How long did it take you to polish the 240g out? I would've thought something like 1000 grit would do the trick.

     

    I used some rainx headlight restorer, its not great but atleast my headlights aren't so yellow anymore and it only took 15mins. If they are really bad, wet sanding would be the only way...

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