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falco

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Posts posted by falco

    Weird ABS fault (SG5 Forester)

    in Brakes, Suspension and Steering

    Posted

    Solution found, sort of. Problem is fixed, anyway. Looking carefully at the rear brakes, it looked like the ABS sensor wasn't close enough to the sensor rings. I adjusted things so that there was much less clearance, and the problem went away. I'm not sure why it would have been incorrect though, there was no obvious sign of damage, and everything seemed to be sitting as it should. Weird.

    Weird ABS fault (SG5 Forester)

    in Brakes, Suspension and Steering

    Posted

    Back again, with another weird technical issue. I'm working on a SG5 Forester that's been mistreated. I've replaced most of the braking system, and a bunch of failed wheel bearings (it's a long story). It's almost ready to be complied, but there's one annoying issue that I can't figure out. When braking while turning fairly hard right, ABS engages and does its thing. The pedal sinks, weird noises go on, etc. After I stop, the ABS pump keeps running for a second or so (can hear it and feel it through the pedal). I'm assuming it's all ABS anyway, it's hard to be certain. The ABS light never comes on, and ABS works perfectly apart from this one weird behaviour. Any ideas? I can't take it for compliance like this, guaranteed they'd discover that issue and fail it...

    EJ22 disaster!

    in Legacy & Outback

    Posted · Edited by falco

    Thread necrophilia... but I realised I never updated with a conclusion. The comments above were right, and I stand behind my whine about the confusing marks. I've been driving this car for over a year now, and it goes nicely. So for anyone doing a belt on these - watch it!

    • Like 1

    SF5 Forester vacuum hoses - where do they go?

    in Forester

    Posted

    I've replaced the turbo on my SF5 Forester - no problem there. But, all the vacuum hoses (and a bunch of other rubber parts) went very brittle, and shattered everywhere as soon as I moved them. I've never seen anything quite like it. Does anyone have any diagrams covering the vacuum hoses that pass near the turbo? Or if nothing like that is available, can anyone take photos, or describe the hose routing accurately?

     

    Low volume cert for multiple mods

    in Legal

    Posted

    Hi all - I'm looking at doing a few fairly minor mods to my BF GX wagon. I'd like to fit some good adjustable suspension, and figure out a bit of a power increase (not too much). My question is, I don't want to do both at the same time, but I might be forced to, as I wouldn't want to pay for the process twice. So, questions:

     

    - Is there any way around that?

    - Is Clint the LV certifier still around here? I discussed certs with him a few years ago, but I can't find his contact information any more.

    Swapping drum brakes for discs

    in Legal

    Posted

    On 10/11/2016 at 3:08 PM, willisnz said:

    This is true, but without the Brighton badge, how he would know it's a Brighton and not a TS-R? Rego just says "Subaru Legacy".

     

    haha, maybe I should just buy a nicer legacy, rather than transforming my budget legacy into a nicer legacy...

     

    Nah, you know the history of the car. And, you can build it to your own spec. That's pretty much what I'm doing with my 1990 BF GX. Doing a rear brake swap is so simple, and practically undetectable. Having said that, I'm not sure there's really any significant benefit of a rear drum -> disk swap, unless you're worried about the looks.

    Noob turbo question

    in Forester

    Posted

     Joker said:
    what colour smoke? on / off throttle? hot / cold etc

    It smokes a bit even at idle, but not much. Even light driving isn't too bad. But as soon as it boosts, it lays down a huge smoke screen, and keeps doing it for ages even if I take it easy. Hard to see the colour of the smoke, but it's dark.

    Haven't had a chance to pull it apart yet, been working on a Legacy. Will do it ASAP.

    Transporting a car Wanganui to Auckland

    in General Vehicle Discussion

    Posted

    Well, looks like I spoke too soon. Because the car was at one point listed on TradeMe with a leaking water pump, they refuse to transport it. I've had problems like this with them before, they just aren't interested in customer service. So much for giving them another chance.

    I'll have to look for other options. No idea if Jeffs etc. would be more reasonable. Maybe they're all like this. Really don't want to have to drive all the way down there and back with the tow dolly!

    Noob turbo question

    in Forester

    Posted

     Marky said:
    A new ones like $100, if it were me I wouldn't bother rebuilding it, just chuck another on and cross fingers

    That's what I figure. I'll check it's getting oil and the return is clear, and see if the shaft is flapping about first.

    Where's best to buy a replacement?

    Noob turbo question

    in Forester

    Posted

    So - this would definitely by a TD04 then? When I get time I'll pull the shields etc. off it and see if it's marked, but I would expect that it'd be pretty predictable.

    Also:

    - Oil feed must be OK, or it wouldn't be dumping oil into the the housings?

    - What can go wrong with the return? Just get blocked up by bad oil and crud? Or is there something complicated, e.g. pressure regulation valve that could be stuck?

    - Bearings could certainly be bad. Car has done 174000km, who knows how hard it was driven.

    Noob turbo question

    in Forester

    Posted

    Hi!

    I've got an SF5 Forester (1997), with a dead turbo. Least, that's my assumption. Everything works well - runs smoothly, boosts OK, etc. But, smokes all the time, with huge clouds when the turbo spools up. I'm assuming the oil seals have failed. So, the questions:

    - What turbo would this have? VF20, TD04? It's all completely original, as far as I can tell.

    - If it looks OK regarding no internal damage, OK shaft play etc, is it possible to replace the seals?

    - Does anyone have a turbo floating around they'd like to sell?

    Cheers,

    Mike

    Safe to lift-tow 4wd auto?

    in Gearbox and Drivetrain

    Posted

    Hi - question re towing. I need to transport a 1997 4wd automatic Forester about 10km. I have a towing dolly, so the front wheels would be locked to that, and the rear wheels would be rolling. The centre clutch pack should be in FWD mode if the transmission's in neutral. I could fit the FWD fuse to be sure, but I don't think it'd be necessary. So - maybe it's safe to do that without destroying the gearbox. Thoughts?

    EJ25 overheating saga

    in Engine Related

    Posted

     Marky said:
    That explains the fans not coming on, but doesn't explain the other stuff you talk about (radiator not heating up etc)

    I would still be querying blocked heater core like Ross said, for what it's worth. Very common (like, just google EJ25 overheating) and also very simple to work around (just 2x tee junctions joining the heater lines at the back). They should both feel hot hot once car is at temp

    Yeah, I did check that - the heater worked fine, so I didn't worry greatly about it.

    My best guess at why the radiator wasn't getting as hot as I'd expect was just that water flow at idle might be pretty low, so the engine's pretty sensitive to incoming water temperature. There definitely are still some mysteries - why the ECU wasn't turning on the secondary fan, and why the radiator wasn't getting very hot when the engine temperature was reading high. When I had the overheating problem initially (this is before any work was done, including the radiator flush), the radiator was very very hot. The driver's side tank was so hot that even a quick touch was painful. But, that was after overheating while driving, a bit of a different situation.

    I think all I can do is exercise it a bit, and see what happens. If anyone thinks of anything else I can check, I'll give it a go.

    EJ25 overheating saga

    in Engine Related

    Posted

    Well, I think it's all fixed. Turns out that the four relays are really badly labelled. I think:

    1: Main fan

    2: AC (secondary) fan high speed

    3: Who knows?

    4: Compressor

    And strangely, the main AC fan relay is under the dash, behind the ECU.

    Two faults were resolved. Firstly, the ECU decided to turn on the secondary fan when the engine got a bit warm. I'm pretty certain it wasn't doing this before, but no idea why - it just did it this time. Plus, the main fan connector was making bad contact. Gave it a clean up and plugged it back in, and the ECU now controls it fine, so temperature at idle is now stable. Hopefully a win - I'll get it a WOF and drive it around for a bit, see how it goes.

    EJ25 overheating saga

    in Engine Related

    Posted · Edited by falco

    Thanks for the suggestions!

     Rosssub']Should be a sticker on the underside of the engine bay fuse box lid showing which are the fan relays, main fan relay and Sub/AC fan relay.

    It does, but I'd like to get a detailed idea of the config, i.e. where fuses sit, how cabling is routed, if there's anything else in the line that could have failed, etc. I don't think I'll be able to find anything, so I'll just go with what I've got.

    Edit - The engine bay fuse lid layout details a lot of A/C-related relays, but nothing that's obviously related to the main fan. Maybe the descriptions are bad. There are 4 A/C relays, and a 'sub fan' fuse, that's all.

    The A/C fan does come on, but that doesn't seem to help with the engine cooling situation.

    Assuming the 97 Grand Wagon would have the test mode connectors under the dash, the fans should cycle on and off in test mode.

    Yep, have gone through that. Currently it reports no errors, but definitely no fan cycling going on. Should it definitely be doing that? An interesting sign, if so.

    Edit - Rechecked this just now. It goes into diagnostic mode fine, but there's no relay clicking I can hear, and neither of the fans cycle on and off.

    Does the heater blow as hot as it always has? Could be a blocked heater core if not and a bypass might help:

    Good question! Never tried that. I'll give it a go.

    Blocked radiator? Maybe will repairing something blocked it? Edit: just reread and saw it had been flushed. But maybe something has been dislodged after?

    It's possible, but the radiator wasn't blocked originally, and the flush etc. didn't show much up either, apparently.

    [quote name='lachlan said:

    What do these have as far as an air bleed for the drivers side rad end tank . It will always create an air lock there . Dies it have a hose from there back to a top tank ? If so make sure this entire hose is hot . If top rad hose is hot a d the lil hose isnt it maybe vlocked or jus full of air . or some models have a tap there . Failing that jus undo the hose clamp and wiggle it back to near the end of the spogot on the rad and bend it downwards so it creates a tiny leak at the top . Make sure water comes out your leak .

    Yeah, I was pretty careful with bleeding, these don't have a separate top tank like the turbos etc. have. It's just a simple radiator and a couple of main hoses. But one thing - I did it on a nose-down slope. Not a very steep one, but maybe it was enough to screw it up and introduce a big air bubble someplace there shouldn't have been one. I'll turn the car around and redo it, with the nose facing up. That should remove any possibility of blockages.

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