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Optical

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Everything posted by Optical

  1. I dont think I joined until 2006 or so... Somewhere on an old harddrive are photos of my first 'cruise' up the Awitu peninsula with MattyC and a few others
  2. 4L for the trans and 1L for the diff is plenty.
  3. Interesting thread Loren! Did you end up with a divided or single entry uppipe flange? I remember RAC doing tons of testing years ago and ended up somewhere similar to where you are now. I made the .82 choice years ago when Tony had a 0.63, or some aftermarket 0.72 size housing he found. Compared to Tony's car, my 82 housing was bogging in third on tight corner exits and didnt provide enough top end to make up the difference on the straights, so i'd drop back about car length on every tight corner which added up to 2-3 seconds/lap. So it was either shift to second gear and lose time on the 2-3 shift, or bog in third. The 63 was faster simply by being able to stay in third. So I went back to the 63...
  4. I visited AVO in tokyo a couple of years ago and they had just received big twinscroll housings for their bolt on turbos that happily made 650ps on their dyno
  5. Ive got a 50mm radiator and have never had water temp issues or even seen it ever spike (except for headgasket related fun) Oil temps on the other hand...
  6. Here's my old for sale thread Photobucket has bunged up the photos, i'll see about hosting the photos elsewhere...
  7. Oh yeah I still do, keep forgetting to put them on trademe Racepro seats mounted to factory rails
  8. Ive been running a stock 257 shortblock with EJ20k/v4sti heads for nearly 10 years at about 260kwatw. This engine hates small turbos. Also not having boost is not as dramatic as on the 2L as the off-boost torque is so much higher. The engine likes a big turbo (bigger than a VF anyway) but ~400bhp is about the limit. This engine has also done hundreds of track laps, as long as you keep at least oil temps down it seems to be pretty happy.
  9. Yes, look here: http://baeturbosystems.com/holset.aspx You can even get all the parts to assemble what SM sells
  10. A friend of mine (QWERTY on here) has a bolt on turbo he used to use lying around. Was making about 260kwatw Cant remember exactly what it was but i'll send him a message. Was one of those popular a while back turbos based on the small trim GT30r wheels. MD321 perhaps?
  11. Datalog the S*** out of your engine and it will give a pretty good profile of your baseline noise when the engine is known to not be knocking. The Link knock system is based on filtered signal amplitude and rpm, so if you have a baseline noise profile across the rpm range then anything spiking above that is considered knock and you can do something about it like retard timing, drop boost etc. Whether it is knock or not is another question - sometimes it is, sometimes it isnt and the ECU cant tell the difference. Just have to know your engine noise levels well enough to make a decision on what to do.
  12. Anyone using RaceRoom? Great sim. Is free to start with and you buy extra tracks and cars but you dont need any. Good physics engine, very realistic. Cheaper (to start with) alternative to iRacing http://game.raceroom.com/
  13. Any recommended alarm for a 02 legacy? Also potentially recommended Auckland installer
  14. Which Upgarage is that? might go have a look next week This one? https://goo.gl/maps/mwEaHhFm5Fp
  15. Check this one out I think you were standing right next to the cameraman actually [video=youtube_share;hEwQcguImOI]
  16. Spacing your suspension arm down improves your suspension geometry, but it doesnt lower your car!
  17. It's pretty close to linear. I'm in the process of tuning my flex fuel setup... Process has loosely been: Complete 98 tune Add 30% to 4D fuel map and 4* to ignition 4D map at 85% alcohol, interpolate tables back to zero% Add 20 alcohol to tank, tweak fuel and ign maps Add 40% alcohol and tweak etc
  18. Get a set of factory brembos with track orientated pads (e.g. mintex 1155, pagid RS4-2) if you can, that's a big step up in braking performance.
  19. Ive been running a Koyo 52mm for 11 years, highly recommend one of them.
  20. sht that cracked me up... what happened to that guy?
  21. Can weld it The key isn't supposed to take any load - it's job is primarily to align the crank sprocket trigger to the crank. The pulley bolt when done up tight clamps the sprocket to the crank nose I'll have a go at fixing it at least!
  22. Well I finally figured this out and it aint pretty. Indeed the timing was being pulled out - due to the crank pulley bolt being loose and the woodruff key taking the crank sprocket load. Keyway in the crank nose is flogged out and woodruff key munted. Result is around 20 degrees lag between crank and cam timing and resultant cam trigger timing.
  23. Thanks for input guys Engine was replaced a while ago with a lowish mileage one which seems healthy. I also put the ej20k ignition system into it so spark is healthy at least. Never a single misfire or similar (was terrible on the old ej20g coils).. Intake pipe has already been plugged up and crank case breather system doesnt run into the intake any more. IAC hose is new and leak free. I did have a fault code 43 - pressure exchange solenoid and map sensor arrangement. Map sensor wasnt plumbed to pxs right so have sorted that and cleared the code. Still behaves the same... Could be an air leak, Idle doesnt hunt and I cant see anything obvious.. I will check the pipe under the IC - IC is a bit wobbly so maybe it has flexed and cracked. Then onto the AFM, should be an easy swap with someone to check. Im hoping it's simple something like that! Seems odd that it pegs at 4000rpm though, i'd have thought the ecu would be causing that, but without a fault code it's hard to know.
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