Snails_R_us

So I’ve entered the modern age and got myself a proper tactrix cable not a blue knock off not a fake one which I got scammed on trade me nope a proper all adapters included %100 pristine quality the genuine article tactrix cable open port 2.0! And quite cheaply too might I add. I own a 2002 Lego gtb rev d wagon and for the bloody life of me I can’t find the flash block connector or anything online to tell me what one I should use (the box came with two wrx connectors a four pin and a two pin) I know I gotta connect the green connectors together which cycles the fans etc but I don’t see anything around that looks like I can plug the flash jumper into anyone done this with their rev d please let me know! Either it’s been ripped off accidentally or it’s taped up somewhere in the gubbins under the dash and my blind ass can’t see it.

So its just cutting the big plastic milk container shape out of the factory intake piping (inside the drivers guard) an making it run directly to the front intake duct. So intake duct >> elbow >> filter >> maf instead of having this huge resonator piece that seemed to hamper airflow and reduce those sweet suck noises.

I think for now and this depends on how far I wanna go with the power route bearing in mind it’s a daily/family hauler/large crap pickerupperer it might just benefit from a good tune that isn’t like the factory one which seems to be on the absolute bleeding edge ( I’ve gone colder plugs and taken the global timing out by -5 run on bp98 and I don’t get any det UNLESS I’ve been sitting for more than 30mins in traffic and hood it which is understandable) I can live with it’s imperfections and again if it becomes a quest for power gains many have had great success (borat voice) with single turbo conversions. I installed a MBC and wound it up to 16 on both turbos and it quite happily does that without any major issues mind you I’ve got a 2.5” exhaust all the way from the Downpipes so that lets it breath a bit better also k&n panel filter with a snorklectomy so seems to behave a bit nicer than stock. All in all I think looking at the cost and gains from a front mount I could achieve the same result with a top mount that’s in better condition than mine maybe some nicer IC hoses and a decent tune. Which would be around the same as getting a bolt on kit, cutting and not to mention a BOV which I know don’t play nice with these cars. plus another bonus I thought of I won’t be a cop magnet with a top mount.

With the main gripes I have with the twin turbo eventually I can honestly say I may just end up going single turbo in the future when my wallet fattens and when I do I will have a lot of insanely helpful folk that will be able to give me a hand 👍 Correct me if I am wrong but going for a tune/front mount/all the myriads of things you can do to get the best out of the TT system ends up being around the same cost as going single if not more?

Good point! I think some people just enjoy that kind of power delivery over a single turbo. I for one would think they both have their place respectively. I just don’t wanna potentially having to go cutting and hacking into my car when I could have a much easier time with a tactrix cable and tune the detonation out then keeping the factory top mount. Or even replacing the top mount which I would probably be more inclined to do if that’s something people have seen good gains from? I have heard of people making up their own IC water sprayer like in some wrx models which seems simple as teeing into the already existing rear window water line making a hose go across the scoop underneath cutting some holes in it and cable tying it to the underside of the bonnet then when you flick your rear sprayer you get your intercooler nice n cold.

Also reading this is a bit scary. Wondering if a tune and maybe a sti v7 top mount is less of a hassle…. http://forum.liberty.asn.au/viewtopic.php?f=23&t=5724

Firstly I don’t wanna be clogging up the forums but I figure what better place to ask than here since I have no friends with Subarus 🙇 Top mounts being as good of a design as they are seem to be the main harbinger of doom when it comes to Subarus and summer heat and sitting in traffic. I own a 3rd gen rev D legacy so unfortunately it suffers from a lot of detonation regardless and I’ve tried many things to mitigate this issue without the need of changing to a FMIC but alas I think without a tune I’m always going to get it regardless and I guess it’s a case of like it or lump it. I don’t really wanna lump it so…. Scarles seem like the only place this side of the pond that do a brand new bolt on kit for my car anyway. Now that’s dandy and I would pull the trigger on it but I do have a few questions for folks that have gone down this path. do you need a cert for one? does the car require a tune? would it be better off considering I am quite well versed in tuning and computers to go down the path of getting a tactrix from the states and flashing a custom rom myself? ( Can someone confirm is it just green test plugs and connect tactrix or do you need a wrx style flash block) ultimately like many people I wanna have a trouble free car for the least amount of monies but I do understand there is getting a bargain and then there is cheaping out. Second hand could be an option if I knew the pipe sizes and how it all goes together like kinnex right? For the record I do have one of those cheapo Chinese blue diagnostic cables that I can get my laptop to see the ecu and I can do things like adjust global timing change the idle rpm and log data with romraider which I think for 6 bucks is nice. If anyone knows how to flash with it I would love to learn how that goes. but yeah thanks for the advice guys appreciate it a lot.

Haha I ended up getting one off an old Impreza from pick a part works fine only difference is it’s orange 🍊 thanks for the help m8 can cross that one off the list now 👍

Choice. Gonna get it replaced regardless. Just one less broken thing on my car haha Do you think they are all interchangeable between models around 98-02? Looked at a forester one and they all seem to look similar bar the mounting bracket. It the hose ports are the same. I’d rather pull one from pick a part than pay the 170 bucks for a new one from the states! Like I’m certain there is no TURBO ONLY purge valve that’s model specific one or anything like that but hey this is Subaru we are talking about….

Yup I didn’t think it was the boost solenoids as there is one under the drivers fender and another one inside the solenoid box. I wonder if the evap solenoid being half snapped like that has had anything to do with boost and or air fuel ratios cause ever since I’ve owned this car I’ve been chasing a persistent vacuum leak and I’m half wondering if this could be the culprit.

It’s not the boost solenoid is it? Looks similar in shape and has two nipples for the hoses to go into. Would explain my erratic boost on my secondary https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32967331339.html Actually you might be right on the money mate https://www.ebay.com/itm/203288871455?_ul=CL what’s the purpose of this solenoid and can it have an impact on boost at all?

Interesting. this is the only neighbouring sensor I can find and it seems it’s lower nipple has snapped off to where a hose nearby may slip onto it. A hose that’s been blanked off perhaps 🤔 Any ideas as to what this sensor may be?

Could very well be if wherever the hose is meant to go isn’t plugged up. Seems like a pretty important line to be plugged too. It’s not very long either so seems like around that area would be a line it goes to will have to have a good look and check it out

As far as I can see everything looks like it should be where it should be it’s just this random hose which goes nowhere? It’s not AFAIK affecting anything major or it can’t be that bad for me to notice while driving but I just can’t let it hang like that it needs to be plugged in or my brain will just let it consume me 😂

Strangely it goes back up to the middle hose above the red alternator cover

2002 Legacy rev D noticed when I took the plastic alternator cover off this little hose had a screw in it. I don’t have a CEL or anything I just have no idea as to why I would be blanked off any ideas to what it is? Bit clearer

Hi everyone I’m new to the forum I’ve been a long time lurker but only now have had to ask for some help. Recently came into purchasing a very nice 2002 GT-B Limited and I’ve owned a few wagons and B4’s in the past but never a revision D which I’m 💯 percent sure this is because the headlamps are different and the vin check on legacypic.com confirms it to be all correct. problem is the boost isn’t quite what I would consider correct… Ive installed a boost gauge and I get on WOT 14-15 psi primary then valley o death comes in at the usual changeover point but then I only get around 12psi to redline and it seems to taper off. the primary seems too high and the secondary seems too low almost like the levels needs to be switched around The usual suspects have been looked into. No vacuum leaks, MAF Sensor is newish as this was one of the things previous owner mentioned gave him grief in the past spark plugs are all iridium’s and done within the last month that brings me to the latest discovery this morning. I know the boost restrictor pills on these cars play a very important role and the plumbing of the vaccum lines for this car is different than my last rev A wagon and found a diagram on here which has helped me identify a few of the pills My car has three pills from what I can see one in the smaller line coming off the blue T shaped connector between the blow off valve and manifold It has a small pill in the black box of death on line 2 (this was missing from a previous car so I know to check this one first) and one more in the bottom vaccum line between the turbo inlet and white T piece and line 23 All diagrams I can find show me there is supposed to be four pills and the one I am missing looks like the hose closest to the manifold but this diagram looks more like a revision A B or C cause the rev D has a big metal pipe to connect the hose to the blue t and bov im really confused cause if the diagram is correct then I’m missing a 2.0mm pill but if not then I’m at a loss to what could be creating erratic boost behaviour. Does anyone have the ability to just take some pics of their rev D vaccum hoses and point out which pills go where? Everything I look up just has older models like Bg and rev a b or c sorry about the long winded post I would really appreciate the help as I don’t wanna push this thing too hard it’s a great car cheers!