Rossobianconero

I can't remember seen any auto sti making 300whp on PBMS dyno, any hub dyno will read higher. I would say that more important that places are the people, in this case the tuner. On companies where the tuner is only an employee (not the owner that has always been the guy tuning at that company, for example), you can go to the same company and get 3 different results, because there was 3 different tuners over the years. The experience that someone had with a tune here at PBMS 3 years ago, may be very different to what you get now, because is a different tuner, same company same dyno different result. Just to keep an eye on that.

on a Hub dyno, 100 you should get there, on our dyno maybe, if everything is in very good condition, maybe, there is only one way to find out. I just had a quick look on my tune folder, and the highest auto was 220kw so, almost there. that one only had turbo back and hks intake, no turbo inlet or anything else. So it can be done, if you are really looking for the number.

We normally run and recommend Linkecu, sadly for the Auto GRB, there is no plug and play option. I had sti auto gearbox making over 300kw with no problems, like others said, you would need an oil cooler for the transmission. For power on a subie, if you want that 280-300kw, the bare minimum that you are going to need is: fuel pump, injectors, turboback, upgrade dropin turbo. That could take you to the low end of that, if you then add turbo inlet and soo on, we have seen 310kw on stock location with decent response. But like with any other customer, I would always say... lets see what you got and what we can do with the tune, then you will know if you want more, and how much more if any. And enjoy the car

yes that is one option, still I will run the standalone any day of the week. But for everyone else, a reflash with everything stock is more than enough, go with speed density is always going to be more expensive, normally you will want a “bigger” map (to have more room), and you have to install a IAT sensor, for most is a deal breaker.

I really want to do some testing with a sti, with all the sensors, test some turbo inlets, intercoolers, etc. Thats why I am after a STI, hopefully we can do something this year. For your power levels, yeah I will first try the stock intercooler, and if you want more performance, waterspray like the old V7-10 sti is a good option. When you go with an aftermarket ECU you can push the tune more, and still be reliable, this is because you can actually measure the air temperature that is going into the engine, and work your corrections of that (ignition been the big one), vs the stock ecu that is reading the IAT from the maf, which is located before everything, is pretty much reading ambient temperature (not quite but is going to be close when you are driving). So for example, when you are doing a run on the street, lets say second-third-fourth, your intake temperature (real measure after the intercooler) could be 10 degrees, at the time you are into third you are at 30 and in fourth you are already on the 55 area, with the aftermarket ECU you can start with all the power, and then just as the temperature goes up reduce the power (to keep the engine from knocking), reducing the timing accordingly. But with the stock ecu, because is not actually reading the IAT where it should, you have to tune the car like it was the worst-case scenario, most likely like if it was 55 degrees. And then also with a good aftermarket ecu and the knock sensor, you can know what cylinder is knocking, and just adjust that cylinder, I have done the test, of having the car tune without tuning per cylinder, and then tuning each cylinder to make the most out of the engine (with the same safe margin), and on a stock sti (just bolts on, so around the 220-230kw mark) you can see between 5-10kw difference in power everywhere.

what ecu were you running when you did that test? I havent had the chance to do it myself, not yet, only with front mounts.

Thats a good guideline, on our dyno (PBMS) GRB 6speed with the stock turbo would make anything from 220kw-235kw (295whp-315whp), auto is a different story, they make 200-220kw (268whp-295whp), there is sooooo many factors on what will actually make on the dyno, sticky tires, bigger heavier wheels, all of that will read lower on a roller dyno. The highest GRB that I have seen here with the stock turbo make 240-245kw, but one of the biggest differences, is that it was running 17" lightweight wheels, so the engine may be making the same as any other GRB but because of the wheels, it goes better, and the roller dyno show you that. I wouldn't be thinking about a number, I know that we live and die for the scale, the dyno, the 1/4 time, etc, but just focus on the experience, the fun on modding your car, and the driving pleasure of the results... best bang for buck is going to be, downpipe, turbo inlet, then maybe catback? or catback and CAI in the same place? to be honest at that point probably is going to be better with an aftermarket ECU. If you want to go to the track and keep it safe, probably a good oilsump is the best mod, and then just don't push lap after lap because the oil temperature is going to go through the roof and then... knock knock knock... rod bearing failure. Do not get me wrong, you can go to the track and have fun, but you just have to be conscience of a few things to keep it fun and reliable. As the tuner of PBMS, I would love to tune your car, but if anyone ask me, I will always recommend a local tuner (if there is a good one around), is just like your doctor, you don't want to have to travel 3-4 or whatever how many hours to see it, and less there is a good reason to choice that doctor to start with. On the sti everything max out at the same time, turbo and fuel system, so if you are not going with a bigger aftermarket turbo, stock injectors and more than enough. Your car with a downpipe and a tune is going to be fun, and a massive difference to the stock car, I am sure you are going to be happy with that, if you go turbo inlet, choice the bigger you can find for your application.

Is not because I am a tuner... or maybe that's why 🤣. But a tune on a STI is a winner, it will change the car completely, on your case you can even have different boost maps on sport# etc. Like the other guys say, is not just the peak numbers, is the huge torque gains in the middle, from 2.500-3.500 is a massive difference in a 2.5L, on the 2.0 just add 500rpm to that. It can be completely safe, we have push stock engines just over 300kw, and they are still running strong. The only engine that you have to be worried about, is the old on high ks with unknow oil changes, sometimes those will show the famous subaru rod knock problem, but to be honest, is not the engine fault, is the owner fault. As your car sits, you can just get a tune and love it, but if you want the most out of it, the downpipe is the big piece of hardware to unlock the performance of the engine. Keep the stock intake (unless you want that intake noise). You can get a catted downpipe to keep it 100%legal and not having to deal with a little bit of that fuel smell coming from the exhaust when you don't have a cat. Usually, you won't even see any power lost, not at that power level. The other day we did a back-to-back testing with a 300kw subie, and the cat was maybe 1-3kw difference.