8e4r

Hopefully not a whole lot, but thought I'd get it checked over whilst I have the engine out. Transmission is 5 speed but I'll look them up and also @Niran's suggestion, thank you both.

Apart from PBMS, does anyone have recommendations on who does good work reconditioning cylinder heads? The transmission and steering rack also needs checking over, but finding a good workshop to get the heads overhauled is top priority. I'm based in Auckland but happy to listen to any advice on good workshops across the country. Thanks in advance!

Currently doing a rebuild and found a few mentions of the short block part number Winger sells in these threads hopefully the information below clarifies any uncertainty for future buyers 10103AB470 - EJ207 semi closed short block only (oil pump kit not included) 10103AB470K - same block as above, but with the 10 mm oil pump kit (includes 10 mm oil pump, oil cooler and filter) 10103AB470K12 - same block as above, but with the 12 mm oil pump kit (includes 12 mm oil pump, oil cooler and filter)

I stumbled on this too during my Google searches, nice read! Will update this topic if I find any concrete information, cheers for the responses everyone.

Thanks! I'll have a chat with the guys at PBMS when I get the car tuned.

Hey guys, just wondering if anyone knows what is required for the 'Auto' button intercooler water spray to trigger? A few Subaru forums point to the ECU controlling this (unconfirmed). Does anyone have more info on how this works and under what circumstances (e.g. from x PSI boot & y intake temperature etc.)? Specifically after info on how this works on the GCs, as it may be different on the GDs and newer. Cheers.

Will post a more detailed message later but my car has been stolen from the Papatoetoe park and ride train station (Auckland). As per the title, silver V2 WRX registration FUY268. Stolen some time between 0730 and 1745 on Friday the 25th November, 2016. Likely to be stripped for parts, if this is the case it may actually be quite obvious. There are a few rare/unique items on this car: STi five spoke gold alloy wheels, with STi stickers on each wheel ARC intercooler Custom spec'd Bilstein suspension with red Tanabe springs STi Genome boost gauge Distinctively, the right rear door and quarter panels are a different shade of silver as they were being resprayed/worked on. See the photos below for the parts I've described and also a photo of the car itself. Has been reported to AT and the police. Please keep an eye out if anyone has seen my car my contact number is 021 037 3690. Photos to come when I find a way home. Pretty devastated right now. Thanks.

Based in Auckland. Yeah I meant that if I source the right one first, then when I go to replace it I won't have to go through the drama of finding they're not the same!

Hi everyone, Just wondering if anyone knows how many variations of the heater core Subaru used in the 90s? Looking for a replacement heater core for my 1996 V2 WRX. Be nice to know if other models fit first without having to take mine apart to check. Thanks.

Hi all, Installing my PBMS baffled sump soon. Just wondering if anyone has had any experience with the cork gasket they supply with this kit? The options I've got for sealing the oil pan to the block: 1) RTV silicone and cork gasket 2) RTV silicone only 3) Cork gasket only Aligning with either the first or second option. I know the second will definitely work as this is how Subaru does it. Any thoughts from people who have used the PBMS cork gasket? Thanks.

+ 1 [quote name='sti8u said: just underload bro.driving along in 3rd you can feel it.as the revs got higher you could fell it more. guna drive it tomro and see how it is. If it's happening under load it's very likely the coil plugs/pack need attention, quite a common issue with the older EJ20G engine which uses individual coil plugs, housing is prone to cracking. But the wasted spark coil pack design (WRX versions 4 through to 6, EJ20K and EJ207 engines I think?) will cause similar issues and symptoms with age. If the spark plugs haven't been changed lately it might also be a good idea to get them sorted at the same time.

I think I saw your set on Trade Me, they're the white set of TE37s aren't they? What do people think of 225/45/R16: (Height: 605 Width: 228) - I'm thinking this might just be a bit too wide, though it's actually only 14mm (so 7mm on each side) wider than the standard 205/50/R16 Toyo T1R which is what I currently have (Height: 609 Width: 214) or 205/55/R16: (Height: 628 Width: 213) - Don't like the idea of riding the car's axle points 9.5mm higher than normal especially for a set of race/track tyres but these will definitely fit within the guards without any troubles So just wondering what the general opinion is, still doing more research but I will definitely be getting a set in the near future, cheers all!

Anyone here uses R888s on 16" alloys? Since they don't make a 205/50/R16 for the R888s I was just wondering what most people go with as an alternative. They'll be going on OEM STi Rays TE37 alloys so the standard 16x7 ET53. Thanks!

Fair enough, got mine from Singapore. Thanks for clearing that up though, cheers!

Yea mine is from over seas, was just about to mention that. I'm missing SU - 1 on my manual least that clears it up . Must not have had JDM imports in that country....

Don't see a pin out for the EJ20G in the manual section, only found Reuben's post on some ECU pin outs but that's for a EJ207 and MY99 Legacy? Correct me if I'm wrong though but the information I gathered was partially from NAISOC, verified and actually work? Not sure if you have confused ECUs from a GC8 A to C (four plug ECU) with a GC8 D to G (three plug ECU).

Sorry mate I have to rob you of a potential cold beer but I got it working now Thanks for the info guys, I did some research after my first post here and managed to get it working in the end. Note: The following information is for people who purchased their Meter overseas and do not have the JDM ECU diagram The diagram below shows the ECU pinout from a EJ20G (GC8 A to C), what you need is the speed sensor pin which is pin number 40 From here, you simple cut the wire on pin 40 with reasonable distance so you can skin the insulation on both sides: ** Green wire from the Pivot meter goes to the ECU side ** White wire from the Pivot meter to the harness side The rest of the instructions on the manual worked fine for me as they are generic and not vehicle specific so just follow those. Hope this helps anyone else who runs into the same problem as I did, but agreed it is a very quick job if you know which wires are actually relevant to the job!

Has anyone been able to install this on a V2 WRX? I followed the wiring diagram Pivot provided but the ECU they say that matches my car is missing an entire plug (three instead of four), or if anyone knows which wire controls the speed signal that also sets the 180km/h speed limiter because according the generic diagrams that is the wire I have to piggy back or split to get the meter working. Turns on fine, done all the testing to make sure there is no fault in the unit and it's working fine, just doesn't register my speed. Much appreciated to any assistance that can be provided, cheers!

TM name : ID# : CS Username : CS User # 8e4r : 2531966 : 8e4r : 266

Like the others said, Trade Me and the Classifieds are probably your best bet. Seen a few on TM, mostly for the GF chassis WRX. Though attaching a brace on the rear (most effectively on wagons) does improve rigidiy, as a general rule the front is always the most important in terms of the purpose of a strut brace; flexing of the chassis is more severe on the front a vehicle because that is where the change in direction is dictated.

im not sure what you mean by this but reducing a rotating mass is effectively reducing its enertia and therefore reducing torque, on a 2 stroke mx bike, to make it more torquey and rideable you put a heavyer flywheel on it. im 110% sure its the same for a car... by fitting a lightened flywheel, it will climb and drop in revs quicker yeah buts its 2 different types of torque really ay...on one hand the lightened flywheel gives you a "fake torque" feeling and by that i meen the feeling on your body as yr car accelerates quicker thn usual....whereas the true measured torque is a load thing and tested to be better and have more proven power when its a heavier mas rather than lighter.....im not a techy type person and this may not make sence to you but i do think very logicly and depending on wot you want from yr engine or yr car its "all to thr own" and if you like it then do it no matter what other people think......ive heard good and bad from the 2 but as for me im getting a 6.6kg one made up as we speak for the best of both worlds I should have worded that slightly better sorry. What I meant to say was "simply reduces the load thus your engine is doing less work to produce a revolution." Hope that didn't confuse anyone.

No they won't fit, stud points have been rotated slightly and the width between each strut is also slightly different.

I have a 4.6KG JUN Ultra Lightweight Chromoly Flywheel on my V2 WRX. Cost a fair bit but is still my favourite mod on my car to date . I've also got lightweight pulleys so the two coupled together make a huge difference in throttle response and climbing quickly up the revs. Keep in mind though these upgrades DO NOT add more power to your car, simply reduces the load your engine takes to create torque. If you're chasing pure power then the money could be spent elsewhere but if you want a more responsive car (in terms of throttle response) I'd recommend you get the flywheel upgrade, could even consider some lightweight pulleys as well, hope that helps!

I've had my set for around a year now, daily driven car, hit the occasional bump that I didn't see but I've had no problems whatsoever with the build quality. Handling has notably improved. Downsides, my C spanners (to adjust ride height) are not particularly sturdy and have bent trying to loosen the rings, if you plan on getting a set of these coil overs try and clean/get rid of dirt building up along the rings as this is the reason my spanners failed though it might just be me (I do regularly clean them so maybe I just didn't clean them regularly enough....), secondly even on the softest setting you might find that they're quite bumpy especially if you go on any fail paved roads but that goes for almost all coil overs, keep in mind all my feedback is coming from a GC8 WRX so not all of this information translates directly to a GD chassis WRX. They're reasonably priced as well and overall I'm a satisfied customer, hope that helps! Oh btw this is on my V2 WRX

Genearl rule of thumb: Increasing front anti roll bar diameter = increase in understeer and increasing rear anti roll bar diameter = increase in oversteer. You will most likely find with this 23mm F and 21mm R setup that it will induce even more understeer than you currently get. Factory setup on a Subaru is predominantly understeer so by increasing the front anti roll bar to an even larger diamter will mean more understeer! You might want to try leaving the front standard and get a slightly larger diameter rear anti roll bar (or even an adjustable one so you can fine tune it to your liking) which will reduce the understeer and provide (should ) better overall balance. Though increasing the size of both roll bars will result in a "firmer" driving feel. One more thing, the linkages and bushes should also be looked at as they play a major role in improving handling as well.