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cods4

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Everything posted by cods4

  1. If you are wanting to play it extra safe (which is what I'd be doing) then go and speak to the tuner and see if they will book a dyno slot for you, but if the initial baseline test looks good and you are happy with it, agree beforehand that you have the option to stop there and only pay $x i.e 2-3-400. A decent chunk of the work of getting it tuned is setting it up on the dyno, checking everything is working fine etc. PBMS are a good bet I should think, personally I used E&H motors to tune my standalone ECU and I'm very happy with the results. Karl Ruiterman has a lot of experience with subarus and used to be the only option in Pukekohe until PBMS got back into tuning.
  2. I believe the cage needs to extend to the front strut towers if you have removed the airbags and you want this included on the authority card. The LVVTA cert can cover the removal of the airbags if the car is pre-2001, however it's generally much easier dealing with the authority card scrutineer than the LVVTA cert guy. Plus as Gripless said, it also improves chassis stiffness which is worthwhile in a GC8.
  3. Thanks @evowrx and @boostin. If anyone has any input on a reasonably priced diff suitable for gravel rally/hill climbs etc. I'm thinking that 10kgf @ 50rpm (ST389134S010) diff would be a good option. Or would I be better off upgrading to a used DCCD box or do they have reliability issues when used for motorsport.
  4. So it sounds f***ed to you? What are my options? I plan to drive it as it is for a few events (autocrosses, hillclimbs etc) just to get some seat time. But once i have the money. what would be a recommended diff for a mix of say 50% tarmac and 50% gravel? I am thinking either factory a 10kg viscous diff (ST389134S010) or some aftermarket unit (cusco, kaaz etc). I've spoken to a few rally guys in NZ who use a 20kg viscous coupler. But I imagine this would be far too tight on tarmac. It also seems like most of the aftermarket units are for the 5 speed boxes. would these be compatible with the 6 speed too?
  5. I got back out to where the car is stored tonight and did a bit of investigation. The gearbox code is TY-856WB1CA which indicates that it has a 4kgf viscous centre diff. I also looked under the car and it doesnt look like it has the wires coming out for a DCCD. I ran it in 1st gear on the axle stands and then gently pulled the handbrake up to stop the rear wheels. As expected it didnt take too much force to stop them. I took a video of the sound it made. Any ideas on what has happened and what could cause this? When we installed the driveshaft it didn't fully seat in the transmission, as if it is 10-15mm too short. Is this normal or did I somehow get the wrong driveshaft? It supposedly came off the same V7 sti as the gearbox and diff.
  6. I was pretty sure it wasn't. The trans code came up as viscous centre I think. I will have to get underneath it again to confirm if the wires are there. You have got me a bit excited now
  7. So the 6 speed has been in for a while. Just got around to getting a wheel alignment yesterday and taking it for its first proper drive and it happened to be raining. Now I have a suspicion that the centre diff is toast. The rear end just lets go under acceleration in 1st, 2nd, 3rd gear. Whereas with the 5 speed, it generally seemed to hook up and go in the wet. Also when I drop the clutch on the wet grass it is only the rear wheels that spin. Are these signs of a stuffed centre diff or has the diff possibly been modified for rear wheel drive? If it was acting as an open diff I would have expected to get some front wheel spin as well or instead of rear wheel.
  8. Thanks for the help guys. I think I have all the parts you are talking about so I will be able to have a play around to see what fits. Got the rear diff and axles and hubs in today. Gearbox hopefully will go in next weekend. Those long bolts that attach to the rear lateral links were a pain. I now need to see if Subaru NZ has new bolts in stock and I will price up some whiteline bushings.
  9. Ok sweet, I have all that. I'll see how I go.
  10. I'm in the process of doing a 6-speed conversion on my V4 sti (ie it's on the hoist now with the diff out). I think I have all the bits i need including rear diff and axles etc. But as yet I have not got a 6-speed clutch. My current clutch is a decent 6 puk racing one in good nick. Just skimmed the flywheel last time it was out but other than that it looked good. Can I reuse my 5 speed clutch with the 6 speed GD box? I'm just getting confused about if one box is set up for a push type clutch and the other for a pull type and whether it is an easy conversion or what? FYI I have the 6-speed slave cylinder set-up and flywheel, just not the clutch.
  11. I've got the repco quick-lift orange jack which I'm pretty happy with. Had it a year and had no issues. Seems to be built very well. It looks like it's on special at Repco now for $169. When I got my car it was a bit too low for the jack so I would just drive onto 1" thick planks before trying to jack it up and it worked fine. Now it is raised on gravel suspension so no more issues. I've also got a DeWalt DCF889 18V impact wrench which works very well. When I tighten up my wheel nuts with my mates $500 CH pneumatic rattle gun I can always get them undone so it seems plenty powerful enough. Definitely worth having if you are going to be swapping wheels often, ie for track days or any motorsport.
  12. I already have the Link G4, CDB, forged internals, 1000cc injectorsrunning E85 and an EWG and EL headers ready to install.... I was just wanting to know what is involved to actually fit the EFR turbos etc. Was my initial list pretty accurate or is there more to it?
  13. Whats involved with doing a twisted turbo setup to get a big garrett or EFR in there? Flip manifold, front mount, new downpipe and uppipe (Or do you use an adaptor for the uppipe?), oil and water lines, external waste gate? Is there anything else I/m missing? Doesn't sound like $10k+ to me. But it would be expensive
  14. chassis number should only be on the firewall and the FHI strut tower plate. The VIN (Put on when it is first registered in NZ) should be on the separate VIN plate (often on the opposite strut tower), and it may be etched into the rear windscreen (although this may only be for NZ new cars). I dont think there is anywhere else you can find the chassis number.
  15. So the specs are V4 STI Fully forged internsls and closed deck block. Built by PBMS TD05-16g turbo ID1000 injectors running E85 - and supporting fuel system etc V7 STI top mount intercooler. Modified to fit and to use old style plastic BOV Stock headers, Siamese downpipe and quiet, slightly restrictive exhaust Link G4 ECU tuned by E&H Motors
  16. So my gc8 is running E85 and is tuned to about 1.4 Bar of boost. I've recently noticed a bit of a compressor surge sound when I lift off during peak boost and when the BOV opens. Is it possible that the stock plastic BOV isn't able to keep up with the extra boost? Or is it likely there is a problem with the BOV or vacuum system? Also, if I were to run normal bang bang Anti-Lag with the throttle kicked would this fix the problem and almost make the BOV redundant because the excess pressure can get past the kicked throttle?
  17. So you'd get it towed to the dealer (or home) in this case? I may have acted differently if it was my own car, and I did call the dealers breakdown assist help line but they didn't answer so I continued on. It seems to me like it would be simple to design it so the dash shows the correct warning light, but I guess its not a high priority for the engineers.
  18. So this morning on my way to work my 2 year old Rav4 threw up a few orange warning lights and the display thing said 'Check AWD System'. So I looked under the car as you would do and the Diff and gearbox was still there and they weren't leaking any oil so I continued to work with the warning lights on (it's my understanding that if the lights are orange then its not a major problem and the car can be used, if they are red then its another story) Anyway when I took it to the dealer later this morning he pulled the codes and told me it was a problem with an diesel injector which made no sense given the warning message i got. So apparently on these modern cars which have multiple computers for every conceivable part of the car, when one computer identifies a fault it sends the fault code to all the other computers. So the transmission or traction control computer or whatever it was saw the fault and triggered its own fault codes which brought the message up on the dash display. Does anyone know what is going on here? Is this a poorly designed computer system or is this a common occurrence with modern cars that you get completely unrelated fault messages coming up for a given fault? I've had other major issues with this car so the local toyota dealership are getting to know it well. Fortunately it's just a company lease vehicle so I'm not worried, it's booked in for a full diagnosis next week.
  19. Took the rally car down the road to Suspension Tech and booked it in to get some gravel coilovers made up using some old Ohlins shocks the guy had.
  20. It sounds like it's just an emissions control valve so shouldn't have any ill effects of removed. However if you've already replaced the exhaust with a less restrictive one then maybe this is a good chance to spend that $900 on a tune instead to give you a bit more power and make sure the engine is performing as it should
  21. Nice car! The S-editions are a bit rare but as someone else said there are so many limited edition subarus that they aren't worth any more than normal. I had a 03 gtb s-edition in dark grey. I think the extra bits you could get were the blue or grey colour, the 4-pot brakes, a torsen/helical centre diff (I never confirmed this), genome front strut bar and silver bbs wheels (looks like you missed out on these). If you have any mechanic mates that would help you out then the cheapest quickest option would be to replace the long block yourself and learn a **** load in the process. But if that's out of the question then get it fitted by a shop. I don't think there is s lot of point having the engine rebuilt.
  22. How long were you listening for with the car off? It sounds like something is drawing a lot more current than it should be. Maybe there is a partial short somewhere. The easiest way to solve this is to use a dc clamp ammeter which you can clamp over any cable and see what is drawing high current. But you would need to borrow one off a sparky friend as they are expensive. Alternatively you could start by checking supply voltage at the battery and then at your head unit and your amps. If there is a large difference (greater than 0.2v) between these voltages (with the volume on low to medium) then there may be a wiring fault somewhere.
  23. I have just finished converting my V4 Sti to top feed using a conversion kit I got from Tuspeed in Aussie. The kit worked pretty well, just needed to use some extra washers and a M8 nut as a spacer. I have a spare Carl Davey kit but not sure if it will fit as it doesn't seem like it will fit my car.
  24. This guy explains it well [video=youtube;_HOa0aRZYpw]
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