BC5RA
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Posts posted by BC5RA
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Are you running an oiled filter like a K&N OEM replacement?
Would the cars ECU re learn for 98 that quickly?
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WRC headers run no flexi, and neither did a set of Racefab $1500 headers a friend has either.
So saying that you should run a flexi is also misinformation - which to be fair Loner didn't say, he said prone to cracking if you didn't.
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Sure Loner/Loren, I think I'll trust my own experiences and the R&D of Perrin or HKS over some sardonic web dweller.
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I've run a 1 piece stock diameter HKS up pipe for over 100k - no issues with thermal expansion and contraction.
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Not sure what car this is - but the up pipe should have bellows not a flexi - just leave the heat shields on.
If you ever go to an aftermarket up-pipe then you would need to wrap it, or do what loner did and source some flexible heatshielding.
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You should be able to remove it as a whole piece as others have suggested.
Best to go this route - get under the car and assess.
Once it's all off - you could rotate the up pipe and loosen it without further barbarism. Not that i'm saying there isn't a time and place for it
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These headers should be shamed at every opportunity, and made known of their lack of quality and potential damage to Turbos in the wider community.
This is the next in a long list of times these headers have F***ed up that i know of.
Sorry to see.
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You should unplug the fuel pump and crank the engine to depressurize the rails.
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Garrett should have the tolerances for radial and axial play online.
But then you would need a dial indicator.
What sort of intake are you running to the Turbo, any chance it maybe being sucked in at all?
Your exhaust manifold has - at least in the past - failed at the up-pipe coupling from my own experience. But perhaps you should look at the flex join for any kind of collapse, if you have not found a leak.
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9 hours ago, THUNDA said:
Would putting a little oil on the o rings help/.?
That's exactly what the manual recommends and thats what I did just recently.
You can go online and download the actual procedure.
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I meant your own rails after install. Sometimes the O-rings pinch, and when you get rail pressure if the leak is bad enough you will hose the combustion chamber, potentially flooding the cylinder.
Could be the reason you have wet plugs?
Or maybe I'm just not understanding, in any case goodluck.
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Just now, evowrx said:
Dtech is 90 plus freight overnight. Used them few times for decaps.
Good to know - I've been out of the loop for a long time.
Injector removal and cleaning is a periodic maintenance check for me, I'll go that route next time.
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Its about 130 with GST at Edgell Performance to have your injectors cleaned and flowed.
Did you lift the rails to see if you have fuel leaking past the bottom O-ring?
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Great news - nothing like an easy fix.
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I'd be pulling the intake off of the Turbo and having a feel of the compressor wheel for play.
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If i understand correctly, the car runs satisfactory with the chip active, so why not keep boost at a safe level and wait until you are ready to go to a tunable ECU?
Or you could buy a 2nd ECU that suits 380cc injectors and do the whole lot?
There won't be any issue with it being upside down, it should be mounted to a socket.
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When I get my ride back, I'll pop over for a look.
Whas your location? Pick a part maybe better than ordering a new item which will probably be from Japan.
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20 minutes ago, evowrx said:
I on the other hand f*ckin hate my light flywheel and will be going back to stock. Acquired taste I think.
True.
Or a lack of left foot finesse?
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2 hours ago, Username said:
For the prices pbms charge, I would just take it to dtech, you will save the 150 dollars you pay on petrol, I am very confident about that. They don't just tune hondas there's another shop there renowned for that, it's not dtech. All I would say is, they brought the Chilean guy over at great expense, in all honesty who do you think ends up paying for that? Santaclaus? I think not, the people getting the cars tuned.
That's great and all, but do you have any actual numbers or experience?
Businesses don't hire professionals to charge the customer more, they pay for themselves.
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As Loner said.
I put a 5.3kg Flywheel in mine and is one of my favorite modifications so far, It can be a pain on hill starts but you do get used to it, Stock flywheels are around the 11kg point. Only lightweight flywheels will give a bit of NVH.
Much more positive and lighter to use a single mass flywheel.
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33 minutes ago, slystiguy said:
I thought the 3rd port is just a bleed valve? I don't think you can adjust the rate it bleeds at to control boost lol... . The boost control always goes between the turbo nipple and wastegate nipple. ? You're adjusting the rate at which the wastegate opens and closes, that is what controls the boost and allows it to build higher. Adding a restriction to the bleed nipple on boost control solenoid will do nothing? Me and a bunch of others don't even plumb this back in... (you must block the nipple post air intake if you are doing this) . Tbh it's been yonks since I used a factory solenoid
Adding an adjustable restriction and doing away with the inline restriction does control your psi, but not anything more than that.
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13 minutes ago, THUNDA said:
Sweet have locked that walbro pump into the list of to dos (there really is a list and its loooong haha)
Im all over the factory WAIC. they rule imo. When i got the car it had the V1 IC on it already, and factory water pipes and pump have been removed
Which is why I tried to "upgrade" to a V6 sti IC.
Did a bit of research AFTER buying my V6 Sti intercooler, turns out nearly all top mount intercoolers perform very similarly, almost no gain from the V1 IC to the V6
and also they dont fit on the ol BC's - good lesson though now I always check my S*** first haha
Still got the bloody v6 ic couldnt sell it for 1/3 of what I paid for it >_<
Ah bugger.
Yeah Autospeed did a bunch of flow testing etc and found that only the Larger GD STI coolers were worth swapping to, but then you would have to run a giant bonnet scoop and ruin those nice smooth BC/BF lines.
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Ah i see, I went with external mounted Bosch coils.
Walbro GSS342 is the one you want. Tip - reuse your fuel pump filter sock, located at the bottom of the pump assembly - Not the supplied sock.
Reason being is that the Walbro sock mounts horizontally and the stock one at 45 degrees, If you used the Walbro one, you may (probably) get fuel surge when riding near empty on the corners.
Also - each to there own, but I'd ditch the angled WRX cooler, its not an upgrade from the stock WAIC, probably too much of a fuss to go back, just thought i would mention it.
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Thats a suitable ECU if not the OEM one.
Cut on a Z4 is 15.6psi, you should be getting nearly 13 psi standard.
You can try another way to control boost: Return everything to stock and locate the hose going from the bottom of the boost control solenoid to the post AFM resonator that is often replaced with the "Coffee cup" mod.
This hose has a restriction inline, so remove the hose in total, and store for later use if needed. Now buy a length of hose to replace it and plumb your boost T somewhere in the middle, the idea is to make the restriction adjustable with the T, wind it fully back and you will get wastegate pressure (9 psi) then adjust in increments to the desired boost level.
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Help! Detonation!
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I'd go grab a genuine air filter and some CRC afm cleaner and give it a spray.