BC5RA

Another misinterpreted thread with Loner kicking it off with his narcissistic posting tendencies. Gator already stated it will not be tracked; so pointless doing the "which is best material for motorsport" argument. As for on the road; that\'s really driver dependent.

Another comedic thread about oiled vs non oiled filters. My favorite part was when loner condemned oiled filters, due to 3 of his AFM\'s failing. Despite stating that it was the fault of an Apexi filter; which aren\'t even oiled.

This thread is a joke. Mods should have cleaned it up or deleted ages ago, with a sticky of exactly how oil works with Factory manual recommendations.

What improvements did you see?

Consider what sort of wet weather performance you want. If your prepared to drive sensibly in the wet; Then consider a max performance summer tire. In this respect then I would recommend Yokohama Advan Neova AD08 (or something like). On the road, You shouldn\'t legally see the dry grip limit with the AD08\'s etc but would do well on track before a dot rated semi. I\'ve driven on a number of different branded Max performance summer tires - RE01-R, RE-11, Advan AD07\'s Ad08\'s and Dunlop Z1 star spec. All were compromised in the wet, but not dangerous. I currently use RE002 which i bought recently, as the car spends more time commuting than a spirited drive which is near impossible to find in Auckland.

I\'m no expert, but with a lighter flywheel reducing parasitic loss; I would imagine Power and Torque would increase. You will not lose HP or Torque. The main consideration with a Lightweight Flywheel, is the difference it makes in a daily driver situation. Hill starts or any incline will be difficult and increase the possibility of spinning up the clutch. I have a 5.3kg billet flywheel in mine, it\'s been one of my favorite modifications thus far, but I will say this; you may curse having it due to the issues above. If you don\'t go stupid on it\'s weight then overall you won\'t notice any drawbacks.

VZ type R garnish.

As already stated Type R were not facelifted. This is not a Type R.

Incorrect. You\'ve been on this site for an age, and still spread misinformation. The RS type R is a poverty spec RS. Something somebody would buy from the factory more suited for motorsport. Found only as a series 1. Lighter with windup windows and manual aerial. Mechanically the same an RS.

Considering the 911 layout is viewed as a dynamic stuff up, then I can\'t see the STI being inherently deficient. It all comes down to time and testing invested.

The revolution STI also wasn\'t developing the full quoted power for the record run, I remember reading somewhere. Around 400hp I think.

Its worth pointing out; for the Revolution STI to develop its 508bhp 500lb ft requires 1.9bar (27psi)

I\'ve made the same point before somewhere in the recesses of this site. Even on the street - real world - stop start traffic. Will be less efficient by the time you want to put your foot down.

For the posters claiming the WAIC will flow/cool well enough for 200wkw+ Where do you get your information from?

Have a read of this. Either stay with the WAIC (optimised) or get over it and go FMIC. http://www.autospeed.com/cms/article.html?&A=1619&title=TopMount+Trial+Part+Two

I don\'t think Kamineko was stating 13,000rpm as fact; so I\'m not sure what the hard on is all about. Just out of interest, has your car seen a "closed event" since it\'s rebuild?

You would have to ask him. I don\'t think he bothers with clubsub these days.

Ichiban performed this procedure on my RA years ago. Works.

Cast iron blocks up until the new design 4B11. And one head with 10 head studs for clamp. As opposed to two small heads with 6.

Humor me; what do you mean by "gloves on make it easier to kill?"

Assuming you have decent heads, there is no reason why it won\'t handle your projected output.

What was the details of the RS RA engine build?

I have no idea why this thing keeps showing up with praise. Completely compromised. Absolute waste of an RS.

Which short block?

Which hoses?