Jump to content
Please check your junk folder for registration emails ×

natho

General Member
  • Posts

    20
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by natho

  1. Guess i'll find out for sure, I have a single VF30 going on in the next few weeks. I've spoken to someone else who did this and apparently his EJ208 off boost with a GTX3076 feels like a TT on 5psi.
  2. i found with my modded primary turbo i needed significant tweaks to wastegate duty cycle. i did this in the tune, but you could use a manual boost controller instead. i looked at using the vf27 in the ported exhaust housing that i have, and while the centre fits the housing, the same doesn't work the other way - the vf31/32 centres don't fit the vf25/27 exhaust housings. i never ended up trying it, i figured the extra space would create more lag, but who knows? pretty much given up on the TT now and going single again soon. while the ported turbos and ecv do help, nothing gets away from the changeover, and worse, how long it takes the ECV to close again, which is a real problem if you want to shift and end up just on the primary again. it's either 4000rpm or 6500-7000rpm.
  3. dw65c is apparently a straight fit
  4. The ECU on my RevD keeps ECV positive pressure engaged after changing into the VOD. The engine is still in vacuum at this point so this would help pull the ECV shut, as you've described above. I think unfortunately it's just extremely slow to close.
  5. i'm not aware of anyone doing what you've described. a few people bypass the positive pressure circuit entirely though. from what i've read, the ecv will be almost fully open when it has 4psi positive pressure. the default configuration has a solenoid bleeding off quite a lot of the boost to this port when ecv positive pressure is activated.
  6. seen similar problems on another forum - apparently the small rubber hoses to the thermostat housing were kinked. might be worth double checking those?
  7. i just put my modded primary turbo on this weekend. i believe the exhaust housing is a p18 - it's a ported one that billsy used on his setup a while ago. vf32 ball bearing chra, vf31 comp cover which is a straight fit. slightly laggier than the stock vf33, with a stronger midrange prior to transition. unfortunately i still have some work to do to minimise the VOD, but i'm leaving this until the rest of the mods are done. up next are dump pipes (still stock), a ported ecv and ported exhaust housing for the secondary. if all of that doesn't keep me happy, it'l be time to convert to a single turbo.
  8. I have a limited understanding too - but an AFR near stoich will not make max power, and generally is not sustainable under load with boost - at least not without direct injection, which i believe can inject fuel later in the combustion process than when knocking would occur. Reasons like this are why the modern direct injection cars are so much more economical.
  9. I wouldn't say that all cars are tuned badly. We are tuning for best power and response, they have to tune for emissions too. I've heard tuners say if their tunes require emissions testing it's always a case of compromising on everything else to meet the emissions standards. Mind you the TT Legacy is definitely an exception at least with an ADM tune - it's terrible. Either there is an underlying issue that develops on all cars, or they simply did a shocking job tuning it. They ping everywhere!
  10. You definitely need to bridge the flash connector - that was what I forgot when doing this recently. It's the one shown here as 2003-5 connector: http://www.scoobypedia.co.uk/index.php/Knowledge/ConnectingToYourECU. I just used two wires and bridged the pins in the plugs myself. My ECU is a A4SH701K and I have been tuning the car successfully. I'm yet to work out what all the TT parameters are, given it's not a real time tuning system, trial and error is very time consuming. Someone was nice enough to send me their modified map to get started which has helped.
  11. I haven't been able to find the jdm pinouts. Any chance you could send me a copy? Nathojg at gmail dot com.
  12. has anyone here compared the Rev D wiring the bugeye WRX wiring? i've just spent a couple of hours going through the workshop manuals and not only does it show the same 5 plugs, but there's only about 20 or so wires to change - a few additions (TGVs), a few deletes (TT stuff), and a few simple pin swaps. surely it can't be that easy? might have to get hold of a bugeye ECU and confirm. maybe the "MY2003" Liberty manual i'm reading is showing an older revision of the wiring?
  13. i don't think theres any need to 'reinvent the wheel'. there are plenty of good single turbo setups out there and the parts to fit it to my b4 are easily obtainable. it'd be a different story if getting single turbo manifolds/piping was hard. if i'm running a single turbo ECU i may as well ditch the twin setup altogether.
  14. don't want parallel as it'll be much laggier. to be honest i'd be happy with a TD04 or VF35 - something with a mid range punch more than top end. the ADM bugeye has TGVs but not AVCS. i could use an ECU from one of these, re-pin, and use OpenECU to remove the CELs relating to TGVs. only downside is the local tuner uses ecutek so i'm not sure who i'd get to tune it. i still think the best option is to get a complete motor/turbo/loom/ecu and swap it all in. will be a bit more costly but also the most straightforward.
  15. yep i know the REV D's are unique - that's the point of this topic! i'd pretty much ruled out the idea of doing this with the B4 engine (i.e. just replacing ECU, turbo & manifolds) however this thread got me thinking again. Al from AM auto said that lack of AVCS and TGVs make it a difficult job to use a stock ECU for. However i've just compared AFM, crank, cam, idle air, map, tps and knock sensors of the rev D B4 and the ADM bugeye MY01/MY02 WRX. all part numbers are identical. there might be more that i need to check as it's late and i'm doing this off the top of my head - I probably should compare the wiring diagrams at some stage too - but it looks like if I can figure out how to keep the ECU happy without putting TGV's on the car then this might be possible relatively cheaply!
  16. What does a link offer over a tuned factory ecu? If I'm going to the effort to re-pin for a factory wrx ecu, I may as well use a factory ecu and save a lot of money! Looks like the link g4 is about 1500-1600aud.
  17. i think link products are easily available in australia however most people using aftermarket ECUs tend to go for the autronic or haltec plug-in ECUs. aftermarket ECUs are illegal unless you have some sort of very expensive emissions test done. here in South Australia there is no roadworthy checks but if you get defected for some reason or another and need a vehicle inspection done, they will know to check the ECU on a modified car. so I was hoping to stick with a factory ECU - I think with an aftermarket tune (ecutek or openecu) they are better than any aftermarket ECU, especially with their knock control strategys etc. reubenH you said the 'standard link plugs'. is this the same as a standard WRX?
  18. Hi all, Long time reader but this is my first post on these forums. I currently have a Rev D ADM Liberty B4. I'm sick of the TT setup, even with an ecutek2 tune it has issues pinging, and the TT setup annoys me in general. I believe it's a matter of time before I have to deal with a spun big end, and the primary turbo has quite a whine when cold so I'd expect that to go soon too. Overall though I love the car and would like to keep it. One option to improve things is to replace the whole engine/turbo/ecu with a newer combo, such as the MY02 JDM STi (VF30 or VF34) or the MY03 twin-scroll setups. Obviously the wiring is different with these. I've been told that you can 'add to' the existing wiring (adding wires for AVCS, some shielded for various sensors) and re-use some of the TT wiring for the extra non-shielded parts. My biggest concern is finding the right diagrams to follow. I do have a bunch of Liberty/Legacy and Impreza manuals which *look* correct, but as I've never seen/tested a JDM loom I can't be sure the manual is correct for the JDM setup. My question to you all, seeing is that there is so much info on here about TT-T conversions, is has anyone done a re-pin job like this on a Rev D? Other option is to remove all wiring from the car and send it 3000km to a workshop who will mod it as appropriate for $600AUD. I have complete trust in the guys at AM Auto to do this - but i'm not overly keen on removing my entire wiring loom unless I'm sure I can't handle it! Thanks.
×
×
  • Create New...