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funkytown

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Everything posted by funkytown

  1. factory rails btw support 500hp no problems as do factory turbo regs. just check on the non turbo reg\'s and your away laughing
  2. Frieight plus selling probly aint worth it jase. Free or near to it is where i am
  3. No you didnt. hes on the strong meds.. we\'ll forgive him :-*
  4. scat does not have a great rep. argo,JE,wiseco,cp,eagle, carillo all good brands. sure there are a good few others as well
  5. can i have someones factory BP5 rear bar the OB one is gay
  6. link to a side conversation related to the use of two regs. http://www.clubsub.org.nz/forum/index.php/topic,41932.0.html
  7. there was a reasonable conversation about this some time ago and its a good one to trawl through again While i agree two regs might flow differently i take the inference that this is detrimental to the car as incorrect. flow is one thing but pressure within a contained unit is another. go.
  8. that doesnt look like a G3, it looks like a chipped ecu, possumlink\'ish
  9. applies within each format of GB. 5mt non dccd <ok> 5mt dccd 6mt non dccd <ok> 6mt dccd anything 5mt <NOT ok>6mt anything if pulling off and converting with in late models means within 6mt range. then its the same process give or take as 5mt
  10. Walbro intank or similar and factory regs and rails easily supports 250wkw. 240wkw will require about 550-600cc inj.
  11. so you\'ve done the water pump, and cambelt idlers etc???
  12. usually there is an age limit.. but three years is rubbish! 2004 brings it up about ten years, so i would start considering your 100km service.. remember its much more than just a \'cambelt bro\' if you\'re selling it you could potentially not do it now, but then you have peace of mind and can exhibit your \'looking after it\' if you do sell it with it done..
  13. because you couldn\'t even spell stupid.... stupid.
  14. yes it did.. on the v7 pro drive edition
  15. i run a helical front diff in my box, similar to those run in a 5mt application and i know we use a different fluid because of the helical lsd.. as appose to that of a straight viscous unit
  16. if you post the gearbox code you can ascertain the front diff type for certain.
  17. really... i didnt know you could get trackside access in the dark like htat.. coz that would never just be out on the public road right.
  18. the circlip in the back of the CV is what stops it coming apart. see where the jolly hand is pying out the circlip - thats what keeps it together. I suggest you get a spare axle and have a play to understand how it all works...
  19. i can hear mine click away - as in they are jamming on something, sometimes i get the internal lock half opens etc. yes going back to the single turbo t/s + AVCS arrangement they are getting better and a better performing set up
  20. ah yes! i think you mean more specifically... the door locks internally can get sticky, so they always \'work\' but sometimes wont unlock / lock with central locking key.. usually rear doors - bastard things. Its the glue they seal the doors with gets into the mechanisms.
  21. tranmission shiffting, its had its 200km service axles and cvs, and also rear wheel bearings (they die over time in the rear) excessive turbo noise other than that just your normal...
  22. you know there is a WAY simpler way to remove the piston after the gudgeon pin is out eh.. rotate the crank so it pushes that piston to the top of the bore and the rod (disconnected) to the bottom, then with hands or otherwise, twist the piston 90 degrees down the bore.... now the rod wont insert into the piston as the hole /slot is 90 degrees offset... rotate the crank again and the rod will push the piston out the top youl want a piston, and a new head tbh, given its age etc, you are almost in rings and bearings land too.. which looks more like a full rebuild agree
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