funkytown

^^ speaks truthes.

just gudgeon pin out and the piston comes out... no need to split the block?

yer nah... lol i wondered if you were brain farting. it will fuck with compression and do weird stuff generally. BIN for that piston. unless it was a hell bush rebuild and you were on selling it on immediately \'as mint as bro\'...

drilling out for what outcome? / purpose?

or a 13mm hammered over* if you bother one of the bolt heads or it rusted over ;D ;D ;D ;D both come in rather handy lulz. *requires the use of FBH to achieve the required outcome on a large 1/2 extender ...

no they are the same. - at least from \'how\' they mount. construction of them may differ /shrug.

And nz new have alloy arms as well. In OB anyway...

You size wise they are exactly the same chassis and set up as the legacy but has had the subframe spaced up and those dinky plastic mudguards tacked on right......

what about this is hard to understand.... sounds like you need to do some homework studying how suspension geometry works and what bits affect what parts of the geometry. granted you wont be able to alter the CV angles but thats a different discussion all together

different between GD / GC for steering linkage position

ultimately yes, but you have to go lots custom on a Subaru for it.. sucks tbh but gt3540 bolt on like 4g63\'s just aint easy. its REALLY hard, and really $ and you have to really want it on a road going Subaru... there aint much going back from it

Logan - this is true for SS set ups. As i know BT runs a 3076r sized unit in TS arrangement with factory location set up ok. granted he has enlarged intake, raised manifold, aftermarket DP and is set up for FMIC, not TMIC*. * edit appears it was FMIC but went back to TMIC when he did 2.0 build.. *edit pic On a GD chassis too

Note that +46 i think impacts against struts in 8.5 on a legacy.... so its a very fine balance between camber / wheel width and offset. imo 8\'s are good on a legacy, 8.5 and beyond just starts to cause headaches.

gay man. just work on the fact karma will come round on said person in time.

well thats average to shit.... i hope you give the old owner a friendly phone call.

it behaves similar to holdens system (up to about VZ) when engaged, it doesnt seem to actively engage the brakes but backs the throttle input off until traction is regained. impe, but ymmv.

Derp.. im thinking fuel rails ..;D

check on the kick panel under your steering wheel on the center console side. there is a button find a situation where you have the wheels spinning and you know it works hehehehe

isnt v1/2 different to v3/4? and BG5a are the same as v1/2? i really dont know old legacy stuff - just asking the dumb questions in case OP gets caught out//

But op will have big manifold pattern issues..?

what revision BG wagon is it...

sadly its all in the brand name. if its not obvious you should urban dictionary:scat

nah not it at all.. subarus that get worked hard where its not open road speeds need oil coolers. The modine is good in a factory car and also in most track cars, does lots of good things. but also refer to what i said earlier... [quote name='funkytown said: keep your oil modine <- this is the proper name for the factory unit. if you keep the modine just run an oil cooler off a sandwhich plate -> u]no external thermostat required[/u]. if you remove the factory oil modine -> run an external oil thermostat usually 15-19row cooler is good. and it will take a bit longer for your car to run up to temp in the mornings.

on a factory car under normal road going conditions. factory modine anywhere near a closed road or track event = oil cooked REAL fast.

itl be a v11 sti if Op still has the same car