funkytown

nah it surely cant be piston but investigating to rule it out is super sensible, but i guess if its anyting fopar on a valve a quick scope will tell you how farked or if even the piston has touched the valve. and therefore reasonably salvagable. if its touched its bent valve and $$ headwork required = scrap head, and probably scrap piston minmum and the bore could be scored.. so scrap the shorty... so forget touching that motor - just scrap the lot and start again imo. so it all escalates quickly. if its a spring you could EASILY get to it and test with out even splitting the block. if its valve not sealing then thats just a bit gay and splitting is required. all im saying is get the full picture before commiting $$.

and that #4 sparkplug is not oily or overwise pitted or the tab smashed against the center pin or different colouring? etc etc etc etc further points at the head. I would be borrowing or getting a scope to have a look in that bore before removing the long block or stripping the motor down personally. that injector is ticking away when plugged in though ah?

it will tow it fine... but it will put a lot more stress on the 4 banger and turbo. youd basically be boosting it the whole time if you\'re towing a decent load the 3l NA is definitely the way to go. either option the fuel bill goes up quite a lot

what happens when its running and you pull the lead off #4? compared with pulling off another lead. sounds definately head related and not piston / bottm end.

maybe more for my own build as it sits now, i have some things in less than factory locations perhaps the m6 thread to pull the clutch fork, input shaft, rangi\'d spanners made into ring spanners for my awkward placed 8-10AN fittings. extra long 6mm bent punch for axle stub lock pin when car still has k frame. bar for tensioning my remote alt. cant think of many others right now

no special tools apart from those weird subaru specific things us home mechanics all make up for tricky spots to make life easier

Danny from dannys autos in palmy. Is switched on and easy to deal with. Well priced too

memory like an elephant

its dane

your battery has gone flat from lack of charge from altenator, or battery not connected well enough ive had that before

daily driving would be fine, its the \'beating it\' sessions that you need to watch for sudden spikes or unrecoverable upward temp trends.

M12 * 1.25?? or is that turbo side? either way. yes just block it off oh and enjoy less 10degs on the water temp... watch your oil temps though, turbo like that will super cook it

circlips probably dont near replacing unless they\'ve had pressure on them, very cheap in any respect Al. if its sticking out it probably wasn\'t pushed in past the circlip are you\'re axles symmetrical in length and stub type or...? its not good having them poke out, eventually mine fell out and ruined the dust seal in the diff and it always weeped fluid

i still have an apexi one for $40 if someone really wants one

Yes perfectly fine

Thats not right. If the c clips in place cv should not come out. Either poor install or poor cv or waaaay to much tension on the joint which seems unlikely

Front or rear? Any adjustable suspension bits on the car?

correct but as Koom pointed out.. this is a very common path, and that walbros $ < oem $. walbro lifting certainly wont do any harm [quote name='Koom said: Cause there\'s a huge amount of people who go through the natural process of upgrades that involves buying a Walbro as a first step cause everyone says you need one. Then deciding to go to the track and wanting a surge tank for extra protection. So then going for the other most common fuel pump upgrade in the world which is the external Bosch 044. Perhaps? From what I\'ve seen, there\'s very few people who set out on their modifying journey with the exact end build planned from the beginning. Most of the time it\'s a case of buy parts as you go and the above also appears to be the most common path that people follow. It\'s only been in the last few years that there has been some proper decent alternatives come readily available as it wasn\'t that long ago that those seemed to be the only fuel pumps on the market. Plus the Walbro was cheaper than a factory pump which tend to die at the 150k km mark.

Unless of course his V2 STI is not a STI ? or the engine has been changed [quote name='jimme18 said: about using my v2 sti block, ???

Ur v2 sti should be fully closed so ur engine builder doesnt know wtf hes talking about. Open deck is ok for moderate power increases

measure gear / diff oil not by its \'cleanliness\' but by its smell.. the more stinky the worse it is. as there is no combustion blow by like engine oil it doesn\'t contaminate like engine oil

and how did you treat it once suddenly RWD... beat the living snot out of it id imagine, and had some sustained loss of traction..?

Oooh i forgot to add.... 2km/litre at the track trololol.

on the open road i can do about 10.5l/100km in my 300kw race car.. lol in town its not to flash

All fluids tbh but good freindly advice for sure