Koom

NS2 in 215/45/17 They would still kind of hang on for a while but the sidewalls were sloppy as. Once they got warm you could push the car sideways by a couple of inches just on the sidewalls flexing. I'd say that it could have been emphasied by the fact that my suspension is rock hard and all bushes are noltec so there's no "give" anywhere else.

I used a set of NS2's when I went on a roadtrip over the summer. I've never driven on a more unpredictable tyre on the RS. Even the old 15's that I originally used had less sidewall flex than those things. The first bit of twisty road that I came across made me think that I either had a flat tyre or a broken lateral link. I wouldn't even recommend them for someone who is on a really low budget. I find the T1-R's about the same as the GS-D3's just that the GS-D3's seem to last longer.

What? Since when was Mobil 8000 biofuel? I thought it was only in Wellington or something. In Hamilton there's nothing on the pumps or anywhere that states that it's anything other that 98 petrol. If it has no ethanol blend, abuse it as much as you want. Just remember than when there is a blend, that's when we all become lab rats to see how long it takes before the ethanol eats at our fuel system. You're one of those conspiracy theorists who wanders round the house in tinfoil hats so the government cant read your thoughts from satelites aren't you? Ethanol is a good thing. Run more boost, more timing, make more power.......

If I get caught by this new law I'll just remove the BOV and bung up the hole in the intercooler piping. The tchu tchu tchu of the compressor surging is a hell of a lot louder than my BOV is and it would be interesting to see what the cops had to say when being pulled over for excessive BOV noise in that case....... Can we ban lawnmowers on Sunday mornings?? They annoy the hell out of me!

Red means you need to remove that wire (these give you wires through the firewall that can be used where extra wires are needed ) Yellow means that they need to be swapped to their corresponding position. Swapping a 4-plug TT ECU to run a 4-Plug RS or WRX ECU is the biggest waste of time ever. Find some loom plugs for a V3/4 and re-wire to suit a V3/4 STI ECU, add yellow injectors and the right AFM and you will have a car that may actually go fast. A singled early TT running a 4-plug ECU (i.e. ~10psi boost and grey injectors) is slower than a wet week and not worth the effort required. More 4-plug info: To make the thing actually go there are more wires that need to be added in the engine bay and some annoying hidden stuff in the loom. DON'T bother. Go V3 or 4!!! I can email full res version of this spreadsheet if you want to have a better copy of the ECU Pinouts. Just PM me an email address and beg

Could just buy one of the V7 short blocks from Wingers for ~2.5k and bolt everything onto it......handle a tonne of power too

Seriously?? Constant pressure regardless of temperature?? Wat?? The gods of thermodynamics are crying right now. Dry Nitrogen filled tyres increase pressure with temperature at a more consistent rate (due to no water molecules) so then it is easier to consistently fill the tyres to the required temperature. This makes it easier to fill the cold tyres on a racecar (filled to the nearest 1/4 psi) before a race so that they will be at the optimum pressure by the time they have warmed up. The tyres on the race cars I work on generally rise in pressure by ~4-6psi between hot and cold. Reading this study below that was done by some Ford Engineers (about 2 mins worth of Googling) shows that Nitrogen filled tyres age slower than those with air (i.e. the rubber retains its properties for longer) http://www.nitrofill.com/documents/Rubber-News-Nitrogen-Tire-Study1.pdf The worry with air (containing Oxygen and Water Vapour) is that it can corrode the steel belt inside the tyre rather than deteriorating the rubber. What difference is removing the Nitrogen and replacing it with another gas that is 78% Nitrogen going to do in the real world anyway??

?? Its basically the same as air but air has a bit of oxygen aswell (+some other minor gases). Just use air to fill if you need to. Nitrogen is a gimmick on road cars as Joker stated. But it really won't matter if you mix it with a bit of air.

The results I got were using a factory pressure reg which ran at 43 psi (~2.97 Bar). If the Japanese test at lower pressures its probably due to them following a different standard for their procedures than what the yanks do.

Car: 1989 BC5 RS (From the first few months of production ) Mods: Strong bottom end and half decent heads, Possumlink, Profec B, 50mm Tein Coilovers, Custom Rear Toe Arms, Intank Anti-surge preventerer + Walbro, Noltec everywhere, 3" Exhaust thats now mostly resonators, TD05, Anti-lift spacers, "custom" camber slots (decent alignment and corner weighting is the key), removed alot of sound deadening + some of the carpet etc, STI gearbox, GTB Brakes. Things u like: Its like a big go-kart that I can bring friends along for the ride, its reasonably reliable for what it is, makes people jealous when I beat them at trackdays haha. What you dislike: The fact that everyone thinks I'm a boyracer. Just cause I drive a dodgy looking RS and live in ChCh doesn't mean you can stereotype me! Girls are the worst for having these preconceptions. The noisyness and harshness when driving round town is also getting to me. Why you brought it: I always wanted a Black RS, then after I spent too much time and money after blowing it up a few times, its no longer worth selling it. Unless someone wants to make a realistic offer What your future plans are: Nearly new 5-speed with transmission cooler, oil cooler, then have plans under way for a freshen up of the motor i.e. new heads, turbo, extractors, sump, injectors and by this stage I'll most likely be stripping it and putting a cage in.

Thats the sound of compressor surge due to the BOV not opening. It could possibly cause damage to the turbo, but there's a few different schools of thought on that subject.

Having no proper scoop and an air-to-air is a bigger problem. The early air-to-air units are a much worse interheater than the Leagcy water-to-air ones, especially once the turbo starts operating in the outer regions of its efficiency zones. Spamming someones thread with in-jokes is also the worst problem.

The Grey's are still rated as 380's though. I flow tested some 740cc injectors and they flowed about 830cc's at 100%. I think the standard for them is to rate them on what they flow at 80% as they're not supposed to be run at 100%.

Leaky BOV?? Or vacuum leak somewhere.

Doesn't handle as well as the suspension geometry is not suited to rwd only. Blows diffs quickly. Destroys CV's just as quickly.

Prodrive used to do it on the Group A and then possibly on the WRC cars. So I figure that its good enough to use two factory reg's on my car

If you test the grey injectors at 100% duty cycle they actually flow about 440cc. The yellows flow about 520cc. But injectors are rated at 80% duty cycle which is when they flow 380cc and 440cc respectively. If you read up the american sites they call the grey tops 440's and the yellows 550's.

Normal "air" is 70-80% nitrogen anyway (I can't remember the specifics, too long since I opened a textbook) and doesn't really make a huge difference for driving round on the street. Not sure if Firestone charge for nitrogen filling but most of their branches do it.

Melts downpipes, up-pipes and blows up-pipe gaskets regularily too

Use the cheapest centre diff you can find. Get it welded and remove the front axles. If you want to return to 4wd, you just put your standard centre diff back in. Need to use empty CV cups to hold the wheel bearings together in the front.

Clunt's off fighting fires in Melbourne...or on a work trip there or something???

Make sure you soak the wrap in water first. Makes it much nicer to work with! Bung could prob be bought from an exhaust shop? maybe? or use an old O2 sensor. You could possilbly use hose clamps to hold the wrap on which can be gotten from any automotive parts place. Lockwire works really well if you know anyone in a motorsports team, they'll have wire and pliers to twist it together floating round.

I should have charged money for that diagram

To undo the bung, if you don't have the correct sized Allen key, use a bolt with a 14mm head and tighten two nuts together on the bolt. This "tool" can then be used with a ratchet or powerbar. (If you can't get the nuts to lock together on the bolt it may not work too well, I usually tack weld the nuts to the bolt to ensure they're tight) To get the pin out of the clutch fork, take one of the small bolts (with a 10mm head) out of the cambelt covers. Screw this into the pin and then use a small bar or large screwdriver to lever the pin out. Put lots of coppercote on the pin before you put it in and it'll be easy as to get out next time.