slystiguy

Milwaukee m18 impact wrench. Absolutely awesome. Couldn't live without it when it comes to suspension / drive line stuff. Not to mention swapping wheels ect. I also have the m12 impact wrench and it is equally handy. Saves a lot of time having these 2 tools.

Flogging a dead horse lol Front mount is always better. But isn't needed until you're pushing 220+wkw . Ducting and shrouds are a must in any efficient top mount setup . The whole lag argument has been debunked sooooooo many times. You lose like 200rpm switching from front to top, but gain probably 20wkw anyway. Big turbos are laggy, front mounts have nothing to do with it.

The factory headers well outflow the limits of a stock turbo. I know of people running above 350wkw e85 builds and the factory headers are fine (twin scroll though!) I'm not sure on the single scroll headers limits, It's something I haven't seen much ..yet. I know they can hit 250wkw +, just not sure how high they go. Personally amazed people with stock cars waste money on headers when they could spend that on a good set of tyres/rims/ shocks and literally go faster lol

If you're only running a vf22 I wouldn't bother

Mistaken them for another set of cheap headers so redacted this first bit! These look good. I'd go Tomei if you can find something. Proven results. Otherwise stock will flow enough up until about 250kw +. Think some peeps on here have hit numbers like 280 on the stock single scroll ones

imo, I wouldn't waste money on a td05/06 for 20-30wkw gains. Budget for a EFR Borgwarner they are the absolutely tits. There is simply nothing better at this current time. 800-1200cc injectors Link g4 Flex fuel +85 Although worth noting on a stock block pushing past where you are at now is risky imo. Wouldn't wanna go much higher than 230-240. People have/do , but longevity becomes a thing.

@SAS sell a pretty affordable baffle plate kit for this exact situation. Cost you significantly less than any other branded sump setup and is race proven.

Have also used rockauto without issue, shipping took nearly a month from memory.

I mean running an NA setup but bolting on a non functional turbo system that outputs to atmosphere just for a laugh , hell maybe you could rig up a bov or a wastegate to the setup for ultimate laughs

Put a turbo and turbo extractors on it but don't plumb anything up turbo wise except the exhaust and oil/coolant lines. Run the N/A as per normal just reroute intake pipe. Boom! Do it be Brave

@SAS does an adapter kit for top feed conversions on early models. Your information contradicts itself too, the phase 2 sidefeeds (as far as I know) only came in offset bolt pattern manifolds e.g 98 onwards, the v1-4 stuff is all inline bolt pattern and is all phase 1 injectors, and generally any subaru 98 onwards is offset manifold design for legacy/foz/wrx . I've head there is an NA fuel rail that houses the p2 injectors but will bolt to the early RS manifolds, I tried it but it wasn't fitting on my rs so I custom made something to work. To convert an early model legacy to top feed is quite a simple task but requires quite a lot of parts to do it. You will need Top feed injector collars and rubber bushes to sit in the inline bolt manifold Top feed adapter plates so you can bolt the fuel rail to the manifold Top feed rails Top feed injectors Re-pin injector plugs or cut away parts of the plug to allow them to fit Custom fuel lines /mixing and matching lines to get it to clear everything I have photos of my rangi custom made setup if you want them, on photobucket atm but happy to upload them here

I'd say it's been running in limp mode to try save itself from grenading. That's generally what happens with these guys who can't figure out a simple CEL issue, then try to bypass it to force boost when in reality it's probably detonating or something and the ecu is picking up knock and adjusting everything to save itself from permanent damage. Boon's advice is accurate. Putting a manual boost controller on a car that isn't running right is moronic so please don't act like his opinion is rude, you are being rude by asking for help then rubbishing the advice given. You've been given a bunch of potential issues to investigate now get to it

Did they machine the flywheel? It's something that should always be done but I've heard of places not doing it. It costs sweet F*** all to have done, like $50 last one I did.

weird it works on mine (maybe this should be via pm, but is there any reason we are blocking people from having photos in their signature and making it a paid feature? It makes me sad ) At some point I'm going to update this topic further with photos of disassembled subaru heads, common identification marks, pictures of cams ect. So to be continued

*This is a draft feel free to contribute information, photos, corrections ect * So I stumbled across this great article on the different type of motorbike heads a while ago, and I figured we should probably have a Subaru version of this subject https://www.revzilla.com/common-tread/why-do-bikes-use-shim-under-bucket-valve-adjusters I'll copy some of the information over but please note the source and all credit goes to the original source Why do valves need adjusting? Valves live in the cylinder head, and a valve spring normally holds them closed. They have two tasks: Valves seal the combustion chamber, and either admit air and fuel into the engine (intake valves) or let exhaust gases escape (exhaust valves). If the engine is not a rotary or a two-smoker, the camshaft determines when the valves open (and snap closed) with its eccentric lobes. Depending on the engine, various linkages may be employed between the two, like rocker arms or pushrods. When a valve is closed, it presses against a ring of hardened alloy called a valve seat. The valve seat is installed in a pocket cut into the cylinder head. Hardened metal is used to cope with the valve slamming into it repeatedly, because the comparatively soft material of most heads, typically iron or aluminum, would quickly erode. In addition to sealing, the valve seat’s second function is to act as a heat sink. By hugging the valve’s contours, the valve seat transfers heat from the valve into the head itself, allowing the valve to cool significantly. The reason valve adjustments are important is because the constant slamming of the valve causes it to recede ever-deeper into the head. Left unchecked, the tip of the valve stem eventually will contact the piece that actuates it, like the cam or rocker. If that clearance (or "lash," in some parlances) is reduced enough, the valve can actually be held open, creating two problems. First, the valve is unable to dissipate its heat into the head. Second, that small gap allows exhaust gases past the slightly open valve and seat at great speed. This super-hot gas quickly ruins components through a process known as flame cutting, which acts just like it sounds! So what types of adjusters are there? What’s the best one? A few common types of adjusters are in use today. Like many things in life, the question of “best” is closely related to what the end user wants from his engine. Here are some of the common ways used to set lash and the pros and cons of each approach. Hydraulic tappets (or “lifters”) Found primarily on Harley-Davidsons and other low-revving V-twins, these use pressurized engine oil to automatically provide clearance between the rocker arm tip and the valve stem. Valve adjustment occurs automagically every time you ride. (Despite this, my poor wife is still appalled at how often I’m in the garage to “adjust some valves.”) Hydraulic lifters as we know them have been in use since the Panhead days for ease of maintenance (and are the norm in car engines). They do a great job setting the clearance, but by relying on pressurized oil to get the job done, they take a split second more to set that clearance. That split second is a lot of time, though, on a modern engine that might spin upwards of 15,000 rpm. This is why their use is relegated to reasonably slow-moving engines, such as Harleys that generally redline in the neighborhood of 5,000 or 6,000 rpm. A notable exception to this general rule was Honda CB750 Nighthawk, which eked out an 11,000 rpm redline in spite of its hydro lifters. The Nighthawk gave up some performance in favor of reduced maintenance. Shim-over-bucket “adjusters” In this design, an inverted “bucket” sits over the valve stem, and a shim sits atop the bucket to create the necessary lash. One can’t really “adjust” the valve lash on this setup. To change the clearance, the shim is replaced with one of a different thickness. Shims are readily available at most motorcycle shops and dealers. The shim-over-bucket setup became the preferred method because engineers wanted to eliminate rocker arms. Rather than actuating valves with a rocker arm, the cam itself opens the valve. This lightens the valve train (freeing up horsepower), allows for more precise valve timing, and also leads to longer valve inspection and adjustment intervals, because there are fewer parts to wear. (Ever-improving valve seat metallurgy simultaneously helped.) Extended valve adjustment intervals ease some of the pain caused by newer designs that require more time spent removing bodywork and tightly packaged engines with difficult access. There's a potential problem with shim-over-bucket adjusters in high-performance engines, however. There are times when an engine can spin so fast that the valve spring cannot snap the valve closed before the cam attempts to open it again. Effectively, for a split second, no load is placed upon the valve by the spring. (The phenomenon is known as valve float.) That lack of spring pressure, coupled with the rotational “wiping” action of the cam lobe, can actually “shoot” a shim out of its captive spot on top of the bucket, eliminating clearance entirely! See the illustration above. Shim-under-bucket “adjusters” This brings us to valves set with shims under the buckets, the prevalent method of adjusting valves on modern bikes. A shim-under-bucket setup uses the bucket to shroud the shim. By virtue of the bucket’s protective “walls,” the shim cannot be “spat out” by the camshaft. Additionally, shims can also be made smaller in diameter, which reduces valvetrain weight — a huge consideration when every last pony is being extracted from an engine. So when it comes to valves on modern motorcycles, that's why things are the way they are. Engineers have gone to some pretty great lengths to correctly maintain a few thousandths of an inch of space between vital engine components, which should encourage you to check and adjust your valves! If you remember one thing from this article about valve lash, let it be the following: Too loose is better than too tight, and valves tighten as you pile on miles. A quiet engine should scare you a bit. Those close to me know I’m fond of saying, “Loud valves save lives!” placeholder

I had an uppipe leak once, thought it was just a leak, turned out the flexi was torn completely around the join. Ended up getting the flexi cut out and a straight pipe welded in it's place. Couple days before I put down 170kw on a grey injector ecu, always wanted to put it back on after repair to see if it made more power but never got to it. pro tip, use steel rods/plates to weld from one flange to the other flange so it doesn't move from the factory location when welding

My old rs used to get between 180-240kms off $40. I didn't rape it but certainly didn't nana it either. Originally used to only get 120-150 but I found out (because widebands are handy as F***) that my car would run quite rich with anything over about 1/10th throttle input and it was sitting around 12-13 afr with only a wee touch of the throttle(which is rich), but when I ran it with only the tiniest bit of throttle input like 5% it would run at 14.5 AFR. What does all this gibberish mean you ask? Well I gained about 50km per $40 driving it at 14.5 as opposed to the 12. Morale of the story? GET A WIDEBAND, study AFR and save yourself big $$ in fuel driving to the afr. Plus it's also super handy for diagnosing things. If the AFR changes from the normal to something different you're instantly able to see this on the gauge.

It's under the alternator and bolted to the top of engine

Oil, usually online or in those mailer sthey send you, I wait until what I need is on special because it always happens. Inside rumor has it, sometimes supercheat sells castrol edge below cost to get the punters in. I've been burnt a few times with those in store prices, for example $45 for a meter of EFI hose, when a rival shop sells it for $10. So I literally buy nearly everything online now, the rare times I don't it's because they're out of stock, then I ring like 5 shops to find out what they can offer and go with the best. Tools and gaskets I buy online, local shop tool prices are a joke e.g $100 for a thread tap, identical brand tap online for $30? I get people have gotta make money but jesus retail mark up is only turning away smart buyers from local shopping and onto foreign soil. Rip co charging like $50 for some shitty permaseal exhaust gasket when subaru local is $25 and partsoup is $10. It's crap really. Show me a local store/dealer that offers competitive/fair pricing on car parts and you'll have my business... and isn't offended when someone questions pricing too lol. Let looks at this reasonably, If I say spend $10000 building a car, and I can save $2000 buy shopping online, why wouldn't I do that? It's $2000 more I can spend on car parts lol .

let us know how you get on, sorry can't be more help , need to know someone good locally. There must be someone up there who's racing subaru's , they are who you wanna talk to haha

a coil problem is unlikely to give a no start issue. It normally ime gives like a poor performance type issue, stalling, revs dropping , engine visibly moving wildly in engine bay, no ability to rev, back firing. Those sort of things. I suppose if the coil has completely failed it could cause the car to not start but I can't imagine once it failed it would "come right" again like your have mentioned. Coils are cheap second hand anyway so replacing one should be simple and quick to try. I haven't done much tps stuff as I've never had one die on me but it's possible that's the issue. I would again point you to replacing the coolant sensor on the under intake manifold, not the one for the gauge but the one that sends information to the ecu, it is directly related to hard warm start issues. Sorry don't know anyone in Gisborne, hopefully another member will sing out and point you to a more experienced Subaru mechanic

What's your location? I would take it to a proper mechanic who knows subaru. Taking a full day to find a coil fault is beyond a joke. It also would not be related to the warm start issue. I would advise checking the CEL codes. Google/youtube how to, it's very easy, plugging in some cables under the dash and turning the key and recording the number of flashes and referencing that back to the factory manual. Very simple to do yourself and good way to start diagnostics. At a guess the warm start issue will be one of the coolant temp sensor under the manifold, on the coolant cross over pipe. It is common for those to give weird warm start issues as you have described. TPS will usually come right once calibrated - again google the method as is it is sort of like following the recipe, has to be done right and in a certain order. Do the CEL thing and post back.

take off the rocker cover and check to see if the camshaft has a spot for a spanner to go on it. All of the 99 and below models I've pulled apart have had this, get your mate to hold it while you do the breaker bar. I have heard not all cams have these on them but worth checking.

I'd be asking if they use genuine parts too, Armstrongs will be all genuine. Try SAS they good mechanics, you won't regret it!