[Warrant of fitness failed due to being loud?]

6 minutes ago, nihell said:

thanks boon, i did thought about that although it passed an emmission test which was performed and stamped by vtnz as well so

that got me curious on how suppose on that make it any difference when i never altered anything on it.

it seems like its a calibrated ear😅. never shown any proof or that its above the decible limit. 

Is it possible to go to a different shop to get a 2nd opinion on it? is it something i can do? as it seems the place i went the area itself is making the car sound like it its louder than it supposed be (echo)

So there is a prescribed test procedure using calibrated test equipment ( an ear is not that) BUT once it has failed for noise it will be logged so taking it elsewhere will most likely (unless they have the test equipment) mean that it will still be failed. 
If you have it tested as being OK and they can supply you a "cert" then you should be fine from then BUT I would make 100% sure that it is compliant 

 

[Warrant of fitness failed due to being loud?]

have the output actually measured ( did they measure it when it failed or was it just a calibrated ear ? ) 
it probably is to loud ( anything non standard would be borderline ) 

 

[Turboing a Non-Turbo]

Cheaper/easier/less hassle to sell yours and buy an already turbo model 
will require engine,gearbox,Diff, hubs, brakes, suspension, full wiring loom out of donor
It will then require driveshaft hoops and a cert for the engine swap 
all up probably $5-10k

 

[Wavetech Christchurch]

Been using these guys for stereo components for years 

 

[Old Subarus - are their prices going up?]

Yup Rego Wofed And nope not for sale 

 

[Old Subarus - are their prices going up?]

Hope so 
my '89 Brumby is hopefully increasing in value 

 

[Portable lithium ion jumpstarters]

I have one of these in my breakdown kit, easily starts a completely flat Diesel Hiace van, stays with a useable charge for months . Expensive YES, reliable YES, 
https://www.repco.co.nz/en/brands/projecta/projecta-lithium-jumpstarter-1250a-12v/p/A1302939

[Subaru SVX Registry New Zealand]

I know we have dismantled 2 SVX's but we have 3 engines so another one has gone as well, also dismantled an XT, I will try and find photo's to get REGOs for you 

 

[Water to air intercoolers]

F*** that was awhile ago,10 years ago ? maybe, dude was a dickhead 

 

[Partsouq don't sell waterpumps/cambelts for EJ203?]

Buy genuine 

 

[Best at home diagnostic tool]

G-Scan 2 is what I use, not what I would call cheap ( NZD12,000) but will connect to anything and give you the options to that the bluetooth ones don't  

 

[Connecting light bar to high beams]

Things they can pull you up on

1/ "driving" lights are supposed to be in pairs( a light bar is one single light, I have seen people put a piece of tape vertically down the centre) 

2/ Placement, the light bar is supposed to be between the headlights even with them. 

My hilux setup 

 

[Connecting light bar to high beams]

Yup 
trying to work that website but meh not working 
 

[Connecting light bar to high beams]

No switch has any more current than what is required to run a relay. 

 

[Connecting light bar to high beams]

@thewabbit1 If you could draw this up for me, I only use 1 relay when I wire up my driving lights on my subaru's. Hopefully I can explain it.

So the switched side of the relay remains the same, + batt to relay, relay to Lightbar/driving lights ( make sure it is fused ) 
the switching side goes like this, from a switched +feed ( i use the cigarette lighter) to your cabin light bar switch, from this to the relay, then from the - side of the relay to the switched negative on the Highbeams. 

I hope that makes sense ( i dont usually even run a cabin switch,I dont usually see any reason to have the Lightbar/Driving lights switched off  which simplifies the wiring even more as i take the switched side for the relay straight from the headlight, one+ and the switched - ) 

 

[Tips for Driving on Ice/Snow]

RAL are running their shuttles @$6 per head return, we cannot compete with that so we are not running our shuttles ( we are instead contracting to RAL as they dont have the capacity so win win) 
pretty much IZichard said it all, take it slow and easy dont do anything quickly, especially coming back down, carry chains know how to fit them, biggest issue I see is tyre choice, wide 18's are next to useless ( or 20's/22's ) best are narrow ( under 195) 15's you need more ground pressure on snow and ice. 

this comes from 30 years driving shuttles on the Turoa Mountain road ( in excess of 1.5 million km's on that road) 

 

[LED High beam bulbs]

Not that it makes them anymore legal, I got a WOF yesterday with my LED bulbs fitted, he did mention it but if you have a good WOF guy then you may get them through. 
Mine are Narva ADR approved though 

 

[What have you done to your car today?]

2 hours ago, Andy_Mac said:

Now rocking DBA rotors and Bendix Ultimate pads all round cheers to @D1Style

 

 

 

5 minutes ago, sobanoodle said:

 

... those nuts look pretty good too. Definitive suit the whole set-up don't you think?...

Man I miss my brembles... and my DBAs... and my Kiwamis

Same as what i put on our Estima  

These and rebuilt Calipers + Bendix Ultimates made the big beastie stop  will do the same to the Vellfire ( unless i do the big brake brembo upgrade on it) 

[Central Locking Actuator]

numbers dont match  

[Central Locking Actuator]

Do you have  a part number as I have a NOS stock one here, 

[Daytime Running Lights]

DRL's are a completely different beam pattern to either headlights or fog lights, they are designed as the name implies to be seen in daylight. There is also "rules" as to the output of them, most of the LED replacement bulbs have to much output. 

 

Read this https://www.hella.co.nz/en/technology/hella-led-safety-daylights™/

I would ONLY buy either HELLA or NARVA, if you want reliable and legal lights. 

EDIT also have a read of this 
http://www.nzta.govt.nz/resources/get-your-lights-right/get-your-lights-right.html

specifically states that using foglights on clear days is illegal ( I know every one does it but still) 

[What have you done to your car today?]

I have done a few things to the Hilux of late 

fitted LED headlight bulbs to compliment the 52" light bar  

So now all lights in the front are LED, next will be an upgrade for the indicators and park/indicators in the bull bar, Oh EDIT just ordered another light bar to go on the bullbar  oops cant resist a cheap deal. 

Next, thanks to a mate I have had fitted a Chip to the truck, as it has done just over 300,000km it has only a low tune in it BUT still very impressed, way more response to throttle input 

[Swapping OEM fog lights to LED/Xenons]

I would go for LED just done this upgrade on my Hilux BUT make sure that the replacements have the correct light output, and remember these are only for lights, not designed to put out great amounts of light, nor very far.

 

[New Member with 81 Leone]

Nice sedan,sorry to inform you it is  well overpriced though if it was a, 81 Brumby with that miles on it, it may be worth that 

 

[Tyres for daily driver? (BPE 3.0R)]

I run the Hankook Ventus on the Hilux, Love them, very very good in the wet and the dry, Have not had an issue while pushing the heavy pig hard, I get bloody good milage out of them ( 60,000k) and drive them on every thing from heavy snow to loose Gravel.

I rate them high