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RAYDEO

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Everything posted by RAYDEO

  1. from what ive found (and im doing it my self now) you dont need to get a closed deck block unless you're building a full on race car... get another STI block, bore it, hone it, then get pistons to sute, use factory rods and crank, im using forged JE postons and race bearings, if youve run a bearing you NEED to replace the oil cooler as there is no way of garenteeing you have all the shards of metal out of it. with a few other bits ane pieces its costing me around 8K. all my info comes from Bruce Saxton, he use to build engines for Possum Bourne so personally i take this info on good authority, people will tell you different and thats their progitive (spelling). MY2C
  2. IMO your best to go for a 2.5 rage system from the turbo back... nice sound but not obnotiously (spelling) loud
  3. Bruce has one we is cleaning and checking now... will have more news on monday
  4. if when u start your car and the CEL is on constantly, no amount of driving with the connecters pluged in will clear it, you need to work out a way of making the ecu think everything is ok with that sensor...
  5. good idea... this is the story i orginised almost 2 years ago... maybe time to do another one... these are all CS , southern skyline, and toyspeed dunedin members...
  6. thanks but id have to get it transported down and my budget is streched already... lol cheers!
  7. RAYDEO

    Removal of spoiler..

    seams a whole lot easier to leave the spoiler on there to me...
  8. lattest news from Bruse... "your crank is shagged" translated it means, at some stage over the last 10 years the engine has run a bearing and so engine has been replaced and the current crank has been ground down (badly) and re-used. long story short i need a new crank... currently looking at other options like a longer stroke
  9. ahhh whered u get the URL for that pic nick? i hunted and couldnt work it out... ha!
  10. to my knowledge, and someone please correct me if im wrong.... the CEL shouldn't be on when normal driving, unless there is actually a problem, if u fix the problem the light should go out... but the code will stay in the ECU memory until cleared... so if u light is still on then I agree with kamineko, you still have an issue... what sensor was it? what code? [fixed speeling]
  11. RAYDEO

    Cold Air Box

    watch water intake with that one...
  12. RAYDEO

    Cold Air Box

    in regards to colour... im sure it prolly wasnt the best choice... it was purely for looks... but the colour makes no difference... was just saying thats what was done on my car... its an idea...
  13. RAYDEO

    Cold Air Box

    when miller made the enclosure in my GTB he just got some bendable aluminium and fut it to fit around the pod, then high enough to have about 2-4mm clearence on the bonnet, painted it black and screwed it in
  14. your a builder arnt you swinny? as for the legacy... there are a few legacy's around town that seam to always be pushing the speed limit... more N/As than Turbos...
  15. yes it was... but it also didnt look like a "boy racers" car... but then what does? to a nana, any car doing the speed limit looks like a "boy racer's" car...
  16. long flashes are 10's and short flashes are 1's... so long, long, long, short, short, would be 32
  17. about 5 meters after where the crash happened it changes from a 60k zone to a 50k zone...
  18. if the rear schocks were rooted (and lets face it it was a 1995 model car so its a high possibility) and lowered then its totally possible they wernt going too much over 100 to do that. the red X marks the spot where the car came to rest... from what i can figure the arrow shows what happened... the blue X is where the back wheels must have lost traction... then he basicly oversteered and hit a pole on the drivers side... obviously hes just a total dropkick to be doing those speeds...!!!!
  19. I'm getting Bruce Saxon to do all the work... if he's good enogh for Possum, hes good enough for me!
  20. Just ordered parts from Liam... Gasket set cambelt r/c gaskets water pump water pump gasket oil pump oil pump O Ring clutch disc clutch cover turbo in gasket turbo out gasket to a grand total of almost $2K will take more pics as parts are installed...
  21. ok so the story goes... took her for a 800k drive through central Canturbry and Otago, got home. started up the next day and there was no oil pressure... turns out the oil pressure release valve was stuck open... so time for a rebuild... doing as much as i can in one faul swoop... and its costing a pretty penny New forged pistons race bearings clean and reuse rods clean, check, and reuse crank new clutch new cambelt new water pump new oil pump new oil cooler work started last week with the removal of the engine and pulling it apart. my suspisions were confirmed as it had a cracked piston, hence was done on compresson in one cylinder the block came out of the acid bath this morning. then cleaning and boring almost ready for putting back together
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