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THUNDA

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Posts posted by THUNDA

  1. 16 hours ago, swamp said:

    After much head scratching, trying different things and sometimes same things over and over, I’ve solved this problem! 
     

    it didn’t help that the wiring diagrams - I’ve seen about three different sources - are have different wiring colours and don’t have repair/troubleshoot procedures. Meaning that I’ve had to puzzle together what info they’ve given and combine that with past knowledge and experience which isn’t that extensive. 
     

    I saw this video at the start of the day, and thought I’d perhaps test this out if all fails. Because I was 90% certain that the tail lights can operate without the park light switch. 


    my wires were orange and white with green stripe. 


    so was it a faulty park light switch? 

  2. 5 hours ago, newsuba said:

    Depends on the age/model GC8.

    STI version 4 on used inverted dampers.

    Not sure about regular GC8 or WRX.

    What car did your GC8 dampers come off ?

    60-65mm drop - yikes

     

     


    Oh yo I didn’t know that, I’m not too clued up with the “sti” stuff, the struts were out of a 95 gc8 wrx, so yeah incase anyone is referring to this info in the future, and you are looking for gc8 struts that fit in a bc5 - if you have normal shocks match them with early non sti wrx normal shocks🤙💯

     

    I think what went wrong with the super lowering is that because I could only get springs for a gc8 (couldn’t find any manufacturer that does bc5 springs) and the bc5 is heavier than a gc8 that’ll be why it went super super low, im going to try the stock gc8 springs in The new shocks on the weekend, definitely need it half way in between what it was and what it is now 😅

    • Like 1
    • Haha 1
  3. 4 hours ago, newsuba said:

    Does the GC8 switch to inverted dampers affect what will fit in a BC5 ?


    does the GC8 have inverted dampers? The GC8 shock absorber part (lower part of the suspension) looks identical to the BC5 shock absorber. The only physical difference is the top hat for the spring. - this is for the front of the car - I havnt done rears

     

    anyway finished the fronts today and for some reason it ended up waaaay too low in the front haha, I used James springs which was ment to be for a 40mm drop - but it has dropped it closed to 60-65mm arggg, I might just put the stock springs into the new shocks I wanted to avoid coil overs so I didn’t need a cert now I’m going to end up spending the same amount on another set of springs 😆

    • Like 1
  4. 10 hours ago, Joker said:

     

    ditto : "only" suspension info I can see is this one https://www.clubsub.org.nz/forum/index.php?/topic/35142-v3-gf8-sti-suspension-into-an-sf/

    might take a but more searching ❤️ 

    Actually I think Paul Started this thread to get it going eh 


    Hmmm for some reason I remember there being a list of swappable Subaru suspension bits on here already completed- I might need to start saving gen 1 legacy info on physical printed paper before I get too old 😆

     

    all sorted now anyway I ended up using measurements to cross reference so I’ll add to the list

     

     

    GC8 Front Shocks (complete) fit BC5 chassis (BUT)

     

    only physical difference is on the GC8 the springs taper to a smaller diameter at the top so the spring top hat (not the top rubber bush mount that connects to the strut tower) is different to the bc5 


    This is an important note for anyone wanting to lower a BC5 without getting adjustables as I was able to source brand new shock absorbers which happen to be the same as GC8 ones anyway (just the lower part) and top mounts but I could only find GC8 lowering springs so I had to buy a set of old GC8 complete shocks so I could salvage the top hats to create a complete shock that fit back into the BC5 chassis

     

    aa for the rears I think I’ll just leave them for now  as it’s already got “saggy bum” 😆


    man I hope this forum stays alive as there is important info on here - can I donate to help keep it going ? I tried to do it on the site but it won’t let me 

     

    • Like 1
    • Thanks 1
  5. 10 hours ago, Joker said:

    Forums have also gone under :/ slightly viewable via the Waybackmachine though

     

    but yeah a quick scan of our FAQ maybe?

     

    the forums here also got wiped so nothing exists pre 2009 

    this one? https://www.clubsub.org.nz/forum/index.php?/topic/9305-jdm-wrx-ecus/

     

     

    And this short thread is also in the FAQ : might have a snippet of info 

     

     


    thats the one thank you! Should go into the archives 💯

  6. Heya all 

    Been awhile

     

    Was scanning the archives as ive recently picked up another BC5

     

    There was a detailed list of all the 4Plug WRX/RS/GT Ecus with Specs etc - A great list I have often referred to over the years

     

    Ive been looking high and low but cant find it on the site anymore - Now im starting to think it may have never been on clubsub - scratching my head abit :/

    Hopefully someone can link me

     

    Thanks it Advance!

  7. Looks as thought current my rear swaybar is 17mm, although it says 22 on it

    Having trouble norrowing down whether or not the cross sport version had upgraded sway bars, definately came with upgraded suspension but whether that includes sway bars not sure

     

    Was speaking to a cusco rep and he rekons for 280+GST he can get me an 18mm sway bar which is 180% stronger than stock

     

    Kiwiflyboy has put me onto the 22mm whiteline swaybar, which ill probably go for, as it is most likely 340% stronger over stock if my maths i made up are correct :P

     

    IMG-3321.jpg
    IMG-3312.jpg
    image hosting

  8. 3 hours ago, Joker said:

    hah yea & rapid Down changes get the back loose too (I was accused of Handbraking into the Hairpin on the back track of Manfeild)

     

    so yeah @THUNDA

     

    can you confirm Trans?

     

    I did start this thread once

     

    and got LOL'ed at

     

    Gearbox is manual - says in the first post

     

    yes I Defo want to induce oversteer, I’m so used to Controlling the oversteer from my younger days lol. But when I got a bit of understeer during a corner I was like ewwwww 

     

    so big rear swaybar it is! I’ve never done a sway bar before - I’m hoping there is a kit that I can just buy off trademe because if I have to measure anything  I know I’ll never do it

     

    i won’t be lowering it, body roll on gravel / dirt is hard to feel, only feel it when driving on tarmac gripping hard

     

    im running a 5% larger than stock A/T tyre on the stock 16inch rim 

    • Thanks 1
  9. 2 hours ago, Kiwiflyboy said:

    I took a SF5 turbo Forester from stock to a track day car and was a heap of fun. Need to do a lot of work in handling an brake department that's for sure.

     

    -Sway bars made big change for the SF version as did coil over suspension stopped the boat like handling.

    -We used to have the SG Forester for my wifes car and had issues with rear diff and noise its whole time we had it rebuilt under warranty and was till never right so flicked it soonafter.

     

    My mrs SG5 Foz is the cross sport version which is ment to have the same suspension as the STI, ive had a look, and the struts (the chrome shiney bit of the shock) is super wide compared to a stock RS shock so im guessing it does have the goodies (well shocks at least)

     

    Has stock 4pot brakes up front and 2pot rears 

     

    Its funny you mention the rear diff whine because it was really loud when we bought the car and it failed a wof on on the whine and mechanic said rear wheel bearings, got them changed (cost a fortune) and it still whines just not as much but passed the wof -_ -

     

    what sway bars did you install, and did you do front and rear?

  10. Hey all

    Taking my Mrs 04 Forester Cross sport to a amateur rally in september

    Have already taken it to one event which was great! were talking seriously amateur rally on private land gravel driveway

    any I discovered

     

    - Handles like a boat

    - Tail doesnt kick out when leaving a corner on acceleration  (fronts spin and understeer occurs) (this is on gravel)

    - Tail kicks out when braking even if only turning slightly (this is on gravel)

     

    Car is stock, stock boost, stock wheels, manual turbo

     

    Anyone know any easy cures? was thinking sway bars?

    It has slotted rotors on the rear (no idea why)

     

    Unrelated -

    Shock or near has a little clunk on drivers side wheel during turning on long right hand corners (on tarmac normal driving) - local mech cant find it and apparently its common as after google searching it

    Change sway bar ends but made no difference 

    • Like 1
  11. 4 hours ago, swamp said:

    How to get into grade m learner tarmac rally? Of course something im years away but dreams are free lol

    Does anyone use tein, kyb or Megan racing? I'll probably go with cusco just because they offer a wide range of suspension parts and ideally it should all work nicely together. 

     

     

    Join you regoins car club (if in auckland then Auckland car club - bit different to clubsub for example)

    Then there is a guy there you can sit your license with, took me like 5minutes its like learner license test only extreamly easy

    • Like 1
  12. 38 minutes ago, pl0x said:

    It's one of the ITL cores, and it seems to cools great. IATs are better than the old (same size unknown brand) core.

    The persons who said the IC was to thin - his theory was that the flow area was to small and is causing a restriction, and said he and mates had run into similar power restrictions which turned out to be the thin IC core.

     

    Yea 0.72 TS is smaller than 0.86 SS, although I believe TS and SS housing sizes aren't directly comparable. The 0.72 TS housing probably more similar to a 0.63 SS housing.

     

    I'm thinking the similar around heads, some avcs heads (either single or twin) could help bring the boost on earlier as well as flow. I'm considering bp/bl heads and adding sti or aftermarket cams, and some decent springs. But I need to test another IC core first, and then pull the heads off for a look and measure up the current cams.

     

    I was hoping for better spool going TS and at least 300kw. I wouldn't care about the power figure if it had a punchy early-mid range, but at the moment is fairly laggy as well as torque tapping off. Thankfully with the 6sp once you are in the power it stays there.

     

     

    Are you in AK? i think the BC5 guys are long overdue for a meet up, keen as to see a 6speed conversion in the flesh also :) 

  13. 4 hours ago, pl0x said:

     

     

    I've been "internet" advised IC is to thin and causing a restriction. Any opinions on this?

    I have a suspicion the cams aren't what they should be, are a bad grind, or are dialed in wrong.

    Any opinions on what could be the restriction or tests to suggest?

     

     

    What brand IC is it? Think my Fenix one is the same size (cant remember thickness) but havnt had any issues with mine my temps are sweet

    Your turbo rear is a 0.72 yeah? thats smaller than my 0.86 (i think) but you made more power than me so something is happening good yeah?

    Im still not 100% on my head setup as I never got them dialed in, in hindsight I probably would have gone to a v7 sti type head setup - shortie too 

    I was thinking after the tune id get 270kW at 30psi, was very surprised to hear 270 came from only 23psi

    David said thats nearly all the puff the garret has, everything else was ok except my wastegate duty was maxed out

     

    What numbers were you expecting from the gtx twinny?

  14. 45 minutes ago, pl0x said:

    They are v3 sti heads with 272 franklin cams, and i think upgraded springs but cannot confirm as I brought the long block complete. 

    Should be able to flow more based on other people results, but heads restricting the flow is my suspicion.

     

    How did I not know you have the same car as me : / lol thought I knew al the bc5ers :P

  15. THUNDA: 270.7kW ATW @ 23PSI  - 431 NM Torque 

    Model: 92 RS Legacy BC5

    Displacement: 2.0l

    Mods: Garret / 1200cc Side Feeds / EL Headers  / 3Inch Free Flowing butt-hole / FMIC / Link G4 

    Fuel: BP 98

    Tuner/dyno: David @ Tune Technic 

     

    Wastegate Duty was maxed out + The 5 Speed Gearbox is probably slowly dissolving each time I hit boost :P 

     

    IMG_0418.jpg

    • Like 7
  16. The VF spools fast, the TD05 is slightly slower to spool than a VF

     

    compare both of these to a big boy turbo - they are both fast spooling and make ok power - VFx and TD05 are both in the same ball park when it comes to the final number on the dyno sheet imo

     

    If I was using the car every day to drive to work etc - in hindsight id probably stick with a VF8 (for the rs - not your car)

    Quick usable fun power without having to speed to remind yourself you have a turbo

     

    But ill never go back to a VF or a TD now

     

    My Garret is slow to spool (compared to a VF or TD) , but god damn its well worth the wait :P:P:P 

     

    My Anti-Lag and Launch control is setup safe as so I can actually use them without worrying too much about engine damage 

    I used to think pops and bangs were the best thing out, not anymore - im glad tune technic changed everything, car runs so crisp and tight feels like a modern car 

     

     

     

    moral of the story - just go big or work with what youve got imo 

    • Like 1
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