bmc

http://oldschool.co.nz/2011/forum/index.php?/topic/41877-mazda-atenza-any-good/

CDM have a good reputation amongst the Honda community, and also assisted with tuning one my cars in the past. Can't comment if that translates into being a reputable Subaru tuner.

Hardly a problem sending them - I sent mine away

I have recently been reviewing the current GPS device units on the market and have narrowed it down to the following: Monitored GPS from reputable established company in NZ i.e Snitch Pros: After sale support, on going software updates, precise tracking Cons: Cost of product, on going month my month software access costs Ebay/TradeMe device Pros: Low entry cost, some devices come with online monitoring, txt alerts Cons: After sale support, unknown quality, no re-assurance online features will be on going for devices which offer the tracking services The third option was mentioned to me today by my electrician. In his own words, he said I should not tell you this, but your best and by far cheapest option is install an old phone in the car which runs of a permanent car charger power supply. You then install the "Find my Phone" App and away you go. I would be interested to know what peoples thoughts are on the above, but not with giving to much away given this a public forum. One would think the Find My Phone App is best if you have a spare phone and are not prepared to part with the increased price for a top of the line product.

I had some headers done in the polished finished look. Kept heat down to a certain degree, but I think heat wrap or a combination of both would have been better.

+1

Weird thing - I start the car this morning with no problems, no check light and has been fine all day - thus far!

Sorry,no boost gauge but would assume standard boost being run subject to this fault. AFM fault - does this simply sound like I need a new AFM Re 66 - I suppose I will just need to take it to a mechanic and hope he knows what he is doing. At least I won\'t be paying for a diagnostics check. I am just hoping its not a blown turbo or something expensive. I have just spent over $2.5k getting my honda head being re-built as of last week due to a engine check light fault and running rough at idle.

Ok - have run the CEL codes, but have not re-set the ecu as yet. I have: 23 - air flow sensor? - Open or Short . This one could be historic as it appears my air flow unit has been reconditioned sometime ago and also appears first. 66 - Sequential turbo system - No rise in pressure or pressure excessive (Over boost) In english what does this mean?

Hi all, Drove my legacy home today all good. I then get back in it to go for a drive a couple of hours later and I realise the engine check light is on. :-\ The car drives fine, but once you accelerate moderately with a little force, the car will start moving well and then reach a point when the engine or turbo cuts out like a surge or jolt. You can cruise along on the motor way or the streets fine, its when you apply a little bit of acceleration with very minor force this fault occurs. Any ideas? - have never experienced this before.

Shipped a bumper door step to step through these guys. Provide instant online quotes as well. http://www.shipmytrade.co.nz/

That is very informative -thank you! Picking up on a couple of your comments - I think I have heated mirrors, there is a little switch by the mirror adjusters, there is also some kind of heater switch on the center console in front of the "snow flake" hold switch, there is also dual air bags, but no woodgrain enhancements. Did the GTB\'s or GTB Limited have a bigger brake package-noticed in the image there is a picture of the discs and calipers.

Neat - anyone got a catback exhaust - I have a Genome muffler thus far, just need the pipe work now.

Did you do a panel filter and a cat back exhaust system? - this is what I am going to do - what exhaust size did you go for? Re fuel economy - how did this improve economy I though it would be the same or worse without a tune? Sorry for so many questions

$400.00 p.a with state - includes road side assist. Been with them for a while now and have the Honda,House and contents with them as well - makes it cheaper.

This has been covered before, but not clearly in one post I think i.e I have picked up info from a number of archive threads, but are still confused. I have purchase 1996/1997 Subaru Legacy GTB Limited - well at least I think I have..... From reading older posts I am confused. Apparently there is a GT-B and a GTB? 1) a) GT-B is a Legacy GT with the bilstein suspension added on from factory, but no other extras? b) The GT-B engine is a EJ20H which is in all BG GT legacys? 2) a) The GTB is different to the GT-B which technically is an "optioned" GT. b) The GTB comes standard with the bilstein suspension, bigger brakes, and wheels and the EJ20H (automatic) and EJ20R put out more power that the the GT or GT-B EJ20 engine due to a number of tweaks? 3) Where does the GTB Limited fit in - and what is the difference and to the above? Anyway - as you can see I am rather confused and now have no idea if I have GTB or GT-B or GTB Limited! I have tried to work this out by reading the forum, but I just get more confused as I try to piece multiple posts together to get my answer. ;D Details on my car: 1996 Legacy GTB Limited Build date is 1996, but car is registered as 1997 as this was the year it was first registered in Japan. Automatic GTB mag wheels Bilstein suspension Sport type seats Momo factory steering wheel GTB Limited front bumper ( does this mean it\'s a GTB Limited?) Purple AFM Smooth plastic "Twin Turbo Stage 2" rocker cover Was not sure where to look for injection Body codes: E-BG5 BG5BSCP Option Code AAC EJ20HDXCJE Can someone please help with confirm if I own a GT-B,GTB or a GTB Limited and what the engine power is from factory along with what makes it different between the other options. Here some pics if they help: Uploaded with ImageShack.us

Subout gave me a great deal @ $200.00 ;D

ahhh you may have picked up the one i was selling, was it a fixed priced offer? If so you will need to cut it off and reweld onto your exhaust as flanges wont line up stock on a BG That\'s me - I suspected that might be the case. I flicked you an email re pickup as I am off to Auckland today to pick up the Legacy

Just purchased one on trademe a couple of minutes ago. I was under the impression they are hard to come by - so feel quite good about it. Will take your advice and just fit muffler. My Honda Euro R is loud enough, and I certainly don\'t need another "fart cannon"in the garage. The Honda is being setup for the odd track day over time and is far from practical as you get! The legacy is the daily and dog/camping car.

Would it rumble with out the catback or axle back i.e just the muffler being added? I only mention this as I understand spending money on making a twin turbo legacy go fast is a waste of space unless you drop the turbos or the engine. And this is the daily. And it\'s automatic.

As per title, Would this fit ok on the GTB along with a catback or axle back system? :-\

Something to this effect - I have heard diesel oil is a good flusher.

Not passing through the mighty tron - but, once again thank you so much for the offer. Understand spark plugs can be a pain to do if you don\'t know what you\'re doing. More help on here than from NZHonda counterparts - I have a honda euro r as well. They just like reminding me it\'s a subaru and will blow a bottom end know matter what I do to it ;D.

Dam it - I am heading back on Friday :\'( Thank you for the kind offer of the century!

Hi all, Have not been on here since I sold my Forester WR Ltd early last year. I have just purchased a 97 Legacy GTB wagon as my daily, it is located in Auckland and I am traveling up on Thursday to pick it up. I got a VTNZ check on it and it came up with dirty oil in the report - this is no surprise as its due for a service in about 2.5k. Question time: I want to change the oil prior to driving back to Wellington and are by passing Tauranga on the way back. My only option is to go to oil changers as they can do it unbooked and I can\'t really waste a day waiting on a random garage I don\'t know to do my change. Here is my dilemma: At oil changers you have the choice of the following oils only: * Caltex Havoline 10w30 or Delo 15w40 * Caltex Havoline fully synthetic 5w30 or 5w40 Was also going to pay for an engine flush. What are your guys thoughts - I don\'t really have many options and are not driving to Wellington on dirty oil. It is also running a little rough on idle according the report but inspector was not concerned and mentioned it prob needs a tune up (due for service remember), I assume it prob needs a good tune up i.e spark plugs, leads, AFM, new filter or something similar. Any input would be great.