Peg

Should be the same as my BP? I just replaced all four speakers with 6.5" Alpine's all round. Components in the front and two-way in the rear. Huge improvement.

Definitely go back to the dealer you bought the car from though - if you did buy from a dealer. When I bought my BP, the dealer showed me a large drawer full of keys for various vehicles if their yard. They invariably have one key in the ignition that they know is for that car, and keep a tag on. It arrived that way when imported. I was told by the dealer that the spare key is often not shipped with the car, but arrives independently. If it's battery is flat (and they often are) it's hard for the dealer to take the time to figure out which car it's for... So it ends up in a drawer somewhere in the yard, and isn't passed on to the new owner. I found my spare key in the drawer by taking all the BP keys out & trying them in the ignition... The only $ I had to spend was for a new battery.

I was going to say - no it doesn't... but I just went to check one more time. It works if I lock all the doors using the remote - then open the driver's door using the key - then re-lock that door by lifting driver's door handle etc after tucking the key away inside somewhere. I'll use that feature quite a bit for windsurfing... much better than hiding the key on a tire etc. Thanks for the tip!

I tried it on the BP... It works, but it's hard to see how it serves any useful purpose. The doors won't lock using the key or the remote if any door is open... So it's impossible to actually lock the keys inside the car at all. If you've lost the key you'll be able to get in, but then you won't have a key to start it anyway.

I've bought a couple of O2 sensors now from http://www.car-stuff.com - for about NZ$60 each shipped within the US. I had them shipped to an agent (I use http://www.shipito.com/) who sent them on to me with a couple of other bits & pieces I'd bought over there for a total of NZ$20 shipping. Here's the one that fitted my BH... All I had to do was crimp the old plug on.

Then you probably need the pair, like this http://tinyurl.com/3evlkfd, with a band expander between them. Or you could talk to these Trademe sellers? http://tinyurl.com/3sbnznb ... That's a closed auction, but he has current ones. I see by the questions on that auction he can do adapter pairs as well.

suubyduuby had one for sale back in July, after he bought the wrong one for his BH. I think you can get one for a BP for about $30 from Eds Auto (09) 550 7256 (http://tinyurl.com/3laejxz down near the bottom of that page)... or if you use Ebay they start around US$1 (http://tinyurl.com/3wlhmd9) and get up to about $15 (http://tinyurl.com/3hnyk5g). Search for "Subaru Antenna adapter" on there... They don't seem to call them aerials. I bought a fascia kit from Japan for my BP. It had an adapter similar to this included. The square plug should be clipped in to a holder back there just behind your head unit.

Welcome aboard here Nick... though I'm no veteran myself as you can see by my own post count. My camera plugs into the back of a cheap aftermarket stereo in an expensive aftermarket double-din replacement surround - as seen in the other thread I've been active in... "Trademe Chinese DVD GPS BT TV Double Din screens". I have no experience with the DV155 or the Jap screen etc Here's a recent picture of the finished product...

Nice work. I've seen your posts here and on the US Subaru Legacy Forums re the fit of your unit. The only way it would seem to fit properly is for you to trim the surround, but it looks from the photos like it maybe sits out quite a bit lower than those of others who've had the same problem? Is there a possibility of modifying the mounts (carefully drilling new holes) so that your head-unit sits a little higher in them? You might then be able to trim just the top of the cut-out, or even cut it away entirely? Depending how much room you need, you might also need to trim below. You'd have to be very careful then though, with the alignment of each of the two sides?

Here it is... it's there somewhere. I had to use a photo with the flash throwing a silhouette of the cam so you could make it out... It's not very obvious unless you know it's there, or what it is. The picture out of it is excellent. I ran a single wire (I had a roll of 8 gauge lying around) with the video RCA wire around the passenger side head-liner, through the rubber grommets at the tailgate (silicone spray is great stuff), to the reverse light. Tapped in there for + and - for the camera, and the + for the wire running back to the trigger at the head-unit. So the camera turns on when I select reverse, and a signal is sent to the head-unit to override whatever is playing to show the picture. The wire from the camera runs under the edge of the garnish, and I drilled a hole through under where the left hand number plate light is after I couldn't find another way through there. Subaru seems to have gotten more anal about holes under the garnish after the BH's leaks back there. You don't need a very big hole at all - there's a tiny plug in the last bit of line to the camera. If I did it all over again? I might just whack a hole through there above the centre of the number plate with the supplied hole saw, and install the camera there flush. I put mine far enough over to the left side so it wouldn't get bumped by hands opening & closing the tail-gate, but it might be still more exposed than it needs to be? Time will tell, and I'll move it if it becomes a problem.

If that's yours on Trademe... I did exactly the same thing with mine ;D Forgot to take the discs out before ripping in there and removing the unit. I'll probably apply a little 12V + & - to the appropriate pins to get them out later on I've been installing my rear camera today. US$39 including shipping from Hong Kong, and looking good so far. Website here http://tinyurl.com/3wa9ocv The thing is tiny. I have it on the hanger attachment rather than drill holes through my tailgate, but it comes with a hole saw if you prefer it flush mounted.

I have a few other things to do while I'm in there, so it's all still in bits. If I was simply swapping out the head-unit it might've taken me no more than a couple of hours? There's no manual as such, but all you need to know (like how to get it all out of there) is on the net here & there. The beauty of iso-plugs...is that no wiring knowledge is required. They make it so idiot-proof that there's even a socket spliced into the earth line (19) ready for the "DVD brake over-ride" wire (28) to plug into. The only other plugs I needed to use at all were two for the rear-cam, (8 & 30), and the rear USB (2). I don't need anything for video-out, sub, or amp (9 to 18), since I'm just using the stock speakers for now. I also have no need for the steering wheel control lead (3 to 7), or the TV antenna (1). Here's a picture from Eonon's site showing the wiring. I was pleased to find that wires 19 to 27 are in an iso-plug socket, not loose like in the photo. That meant absolutely no joining or soldering. In fact... much more like this one, except no rear iPod input - just a front one. [quote name='newsuba said: Where's the cassette player ? ;D I'm old enough to still have quite a good collection of those things, but too old to remember where I put them.

My head unit is in and tested, and I can report that it's working extremely well. Installation: Came with iso plug sockets, so I needed only a Subaru / iso adapter which I picked up on Trademe for ~ $10. Plug & play. The wiring at the back of the old head-unit was taped up tight, so I cut all that away to give me extra room to work with. If I find it rattles in there later, I'll go back in with some insulation tape. Everything fits like it was made for it. The head unit is flush-mounted with the double-din opening, and there are no obvious gaps anywhere. The red lighting doesn't quite match the rest of the backlighting, it's more orange. Close enough for my taste though. Features Disc plays DVD, CD, and any home burned stuff on either. Remote control has most of the controls for DVD, with just enough to get going on the unit touchscreen. Resolution is extremely good, with plenty of adjustments if required. No issues like those webup experienced with his touchscreen accuracy. There's a recalibration program in the settings anyway. The touchscreen is excellent, with a nice predominantly black & red UI and flip / fade to each new screen. Bluetooth paired with my phone immediately. Calls can be made from the head-unit, and music played from off the phone. The music can be paused & FF / Rev from the unit. No issues with Radio, has auto seek function, room for 18 preset FM stations and 12 AM. Very good reception, though I've noticed a tiny bit of static now and then. That could just be atmospheric or environmental - I have fluorescents in the garage. I have no TV aerial, am not sure that this feature would work in NZ. There's never much on the telly anyway. There are USB outlets on the front, and the rear. I could navigate around a USB stick using the head-unit controls, and it'll play music, movies (AVI format tested), pictures, whatever I've thrown at it. I intend to run the rear USB into the centre console using a USB extension cord at < $10 off TM. The rear camera works extremely well. It activates whenever reverse is selected, and the picture over-rides whatever is on the screen at the time. I'm very pleased with it so far. Here's any early pic...

I have an Eonon unit on it's way from China or Taiwan or Hong Kong or wherever they come from now. Much better option than the Trademe ones IMHO. I didn't need GPS either... It costs extra for NZ & Aus maps loaded on an SD card, and I didn't think they'd be either recent or updated. I get free updated maps for life on my Nokia phone, with voice nav (and music) broadcast bluetooth through the Eonon. Eonon website here http://tinyurl.com/2cqclh I chose not to go with their tilt front model, simply because I prefer a normal volume dial rather than the + / - buttons. It was slightly more expensive, and I lose a fraction screen size, but I'm certain it'll match exactly the double-din slot for the BP, and maybe look just a bit more "integrated"? Eonon's UI is just a little more appealing than some of those TM ones, and I'm hoping the red led matches the stock BP back-lighting. Careful with those TM ones too, that you don't get one with less than 800*480 resolution. I bought mine for US$210 from Eonon's Ebay store http://tinyurl.com/5wy86d8, with a rear camera for another US$39. Free shipping to NZ. The Paypal payment just landed on my credit card - NZ$311. I figure that'd be about NZ$260 or so for the head-unit alone? The tilt front Eonon unit, model D2208 I was originally looking at is currently on sale for US$185 (& cheaper on Ebay), which'd be a little under NZ$240. I'll report back with more photos through the install... My double-din kit is black, and I'm going to either paint the silver gearshift surround to match, or cover it with some 3M Carbon Di-Noc film. I never could figure out why Subaru chose to make that little bit of the dash silver. UPDATE: I ordered and paid on Wednesday 13 July at 7.40pm, and received an email from them on Thursday 14 July at 8.20pm, advising that my order was shipped. My very well wrapped package full of Eonon bits & pieces was courier delivered today, Monday 18 July at midday. Very impressive indeed! No import duty or GST either = Excellent. Installation later this week... my wife has the BP away up north.

Nice catch. They don't last long though, and you have to be fast to grab one on Trademe... Does it bother anyone else when online sellers spell "Subaru" wrong? I'm not sure that kit was entire either - there don't appear to be any actual stereo mounts, or an aerial adapter. Just the cutout and the A/C control AvoJDM are offering 10% off at the moment, so I got my kit there (I wanted black) for $450 including shipping.

Not sure why some of you are saying "no adapter", unless there's some variation through the model years? I recently replaced the standard head-unit in my BH with a double din JVC from Repco, and had to buy one of these adapters http://tinyurl.com/3v2z4k3 from Trademe... They're commonly known as "Nissan adapters" like bobbyjimmy linked you to on Ebay, or "Diversity antennas" as spark_38 mentioned. I'm currently gathering all the bits I need to change the head-unit in the BP, and the kit includes an adapter like you pictured. It won't work for your BH.

Good find... but sadly they don't carry the part I'm looking for.

I've been keeping an eye on the avoJDM Parts website (see http://tinyurl.com/5tev2qm), waiting to pull the trigger on one of their AV panel sets with double din stereo cutout (http://tinyurl.com/65oaakm). In case anyone is interested... Here's a cut & paste from their Facebook page... "AVO Turboworld Japan is celebrating it's 10th anniversary of operation! Starting from a small shop, it's blossomed into a large shop with several lifts, a dyno, and sales throughout Japan and the Asian region. To join in the celebration with them, we are offering a 10% coupon on *all* AVO Turboworld parts! Just use coupon code JDM10ANV when ordering parts through AVO Turboworld!" That was enough incentive for me to pull that trigger.

Sorry to hear that mate ... and happy to buy the kit off you if you don't end up needing it

I recently had this problem, and Google searches reveal that it's quite common. It's usually as a result of poor solder connections on the board. I found sellers on Ebay who offered repair, but shipping to & from the USA isn't always cheap or reliable. So I took the unit out, and then down to a local electronics repair shop. I asked them to simply test and re-solder any obvious problem. They called me back in there after a week, and said they'd been unable to find a wiring diagram for the input, so had simply re-soldered most of the obvious & accessible connections they found on the circuit board. We plugged it in - and found it working perfectly. They charged me just shy of $100 for the job - which I was happy to pay. A new part, even if it was to cost about the same (and I have no idea what the cost actually is) would likely have all the same poor solders on it. Just an FYI...

I did some searching on TM, and am not surprised you're happy with the price. Well spotted... I'm only sorry I missed that one myself.

There's a heater in the glass - similar to the rear window demister, but down the bottom behind the black paint. If you ever have a windscreen replacement on a Legacy they'll usually ask whether you need heated or not.

What it's doing different, is that it's not using first gear. The hold A/T (all terrain) button locks out first so that the driving wheels get less torque, and the torque will be more "even". It's harder to spin your wheels in a bigger gear. Good for when you need a little more traction. And as the others say, the "windscreen wiper" button is a front window heater. Good for melting wiper blades if left going for too long ;D

http://tinyurl.com/3ovdt2k maybe? There is a much cheaper white one listed on TM as well, but it appears a little "homemade" of an STI?

I replaced the O2 sensor in my Y2k BH with an after-market universal one from the USA. It works very well, with no CEL since installation. I actually bought 2 of them, intending to throw the second onto Trademe to lessen the shipping impact... but I never got around to it. It's yours for $90 (what it cost me) if you want it? Edit: I removed the "plus shipping" since I see we're both in NP