Flash

I saw a few cars in the US running them in this place & thought about all the pros & cons etc. So I decided to give it a test make a mount I could remove if it did not work. The Temps were good on the street & motor way. At Hampton Downs the problem was when I pulled into the pits, the heat soak temps went through the roof , higher temps then the standard heat ex changer. Its now mounted in the normal aftermarket placement -the good point is when the radiator fan is on this should help cool the both radiator & oil cooler.

The oil cooler is now been moved to the front between the radiator & intercooler. New Engine: Debured Closed deck block JE Pistons Eagle Rods ACL Race Bearings Head Studs & steal Head gaskets 12mm Oil Pump Ported & polished STI heads Killer B sump, Pick up & Baffle plate Tuned Length Headers Light weight fly wheel Factory VF22 running 19psi (For now)

My Peasant racing WRX

I used the Znoelli 550 pads on my last track day at Hamton Downs & they only lasted about 10 laps until I had no pedal or front brakes this was not very fun going into turn one slowing down at over 200 ks. They were very dusty & total over heated on the track. They where fine on the street but I would not recommend them as a track pad, I will be switching to padgit or endless.

-Does any one know where the relay is? Is it in the unit?

Hi Guys, I just got my 1998 V4 WRX Race Car going after a 2 year build & the ABS light is on with codes 52 & 54. 52-Faulty Hydraulic motor & motor relay. 54-Faulty stop light Circuit This car has had a lot of things changed with the dash & wiring out to fit a 8-point roll cage. the brakes have had different, calipers, discs, hubs, brake lines, tail lights, wiring, etc. I have started to go though the process but would like any additional information I can get to speed up the process. Please don't reply unless who have had problems with these fault codes.

Yes you can compare them because this conversation is about going sidways & the more grip you get the faster you will be going sidways. And the conclusion was you will need to run a modifed Subaru sump because they are junk. So please read the complete post Also by the way the spd way cars arnt set up to turn left the driver turns the car left or the brakes do. The cars are off set for wheight & drive out off the corner

Sorry Yea way off the topic but cool vid> A wingless Sprintcar & Midget has the same basic concept as the top level RWD Drifters now do. The more rear grip you can produce the faster you will be going sideways. The main problem a RWD Subaru will have to achieve a fast sidways speed will be Tyre size. You would want to be around the 265 or 285 at least. (Bolt on flares 10inch rims with 25mm spacers would do the trick) Either way the Subaru sump is a bad design & this problem is the main reason why so many have run bearings. Got to go now I have rear doors to chop up!

Check out this cool in car vid of MP at Chili bowl. This will get you thinking about sideways grip & drive. 250 cars race for a whole week & he starts of grid 8 in the A-Main

Yea the 65/35 is the best mod ever & the sump is a no brainer. I brought my center diff of this web site for $400. They are something like $8g new from Subaru. That diff will fit in v3 & v4 What version do you have? looks like a v4

5 years at Ralliart (Highlight Reece Jones winning NZ championship in a group N evo) 5 years at Porsche (winning Targa with Jim Richards & 3rd with Will Sellers aslo Running 1000 hp turbos) 5 years speedway (9 features in a row, NZ champ- ,50,40,30 lapper etc. Too many highlights to list), So I have a little bit of experience I guess. Even though I worked at Ralliart I Love my Subs & have owned a few. I don't go on this site much & try not to comment as can't be bothered with pointless arguments, Some times I just want to help as I have done a lot & wasted a lot of time with pointless mods. Also very busy with kids & trying to build a race car on a peasants budget. I should be done by next summer so i am looking forward to getting out on the track to the GVI Track days & Auckland car club track days. I am also looking forword to meeting some more car peole like my self at the Clubsub days.

You exchange your old sump & they give you a second hand modifed sump for $200 It has an extra baffle welded in around the top edge. It also has a plastic trap door at the rear. It is a very basic mod that works. They fit this sump to every engine they do other then the engines that have the flash winged Group A sump & It looks std from the out side. The $400 sump I wanted them to build was the same as the Group A sump on the inside but with out the winged part as this takes time to do. The Group A sump has alot of Aluminium panels & more trap doors They were also going to weld a Possum badge on it so you could tell what it is. This is still in the pipe line & will be done when they have time. You could make one your self as I was going too but I could only use my mates engine brace tool for a few days & I know that sump works. I also have alot more other jobs to do like removing sound deading that the dry Ice could not get too, If you are keen just ring Possums & speak to Brian or Paul. The $200 sump is off the shelf. If you want the $400 sump tell them you want the $400 Sump Haydn was asking for. If they get enough orders they might get around to making 10 sooner rather then later. Last time i was there they had 11 engines to do & rally cars to fix.

& yes I know Brian & the boys at Possums, They have fitted that $200 baffled sump to alot of rally cars like Emma Gilmor's & alot of production cars. I have been trying for 6 months to get them to make an intermedite sump the price was going to be about $400 & it was going to be like the Group A sump inside but not winged. They have been too busy to make this but if they get more interst he will do a run off 10.

We used to run alot of Porsche's with slicks because they were dry sump we had do problems, the new water cooled 911's & boxters (not Turbo,GT-2 & GT-3) are wet sumped if you bolt on slicks to them & try to do targa or track days they will have oil stavation problems with out a sump mod. We now run Michael Pickens at Western Springs That car is 100% sidways or on 2 wheels all the time. If that car was not dry sumped that engine would run a bearing on the first lap. Any high speed corning sidways or straight line can cause problems in your oil system. It all depends on how good the design is & the Subaru one is junk, The Rally cars also all so run baffled sumps because the subaru sump is junk.