rskikn

http://rogerclarkmotorsport.co.uk/store/product/57-rcm-parallel-fuel-rail-kit-rcm-performance-fuel-regulator you guys should email him and tell him his fuel systems are a waste of time. you know just cos hes wasting every ones time.

I only run 800cc injectors haven't needed anything larger with my split rail system it currently runs 300kw on 95 octane.. u keep yr theory and ill stick to my old skool one

i split them even running top feeds as i run twin external bosch pumps with there own lines one to each fuel rail then into twin port fuel reg. better to much fuel than to little. safe or sorry take yr pick lol.

no ones mentioned split fuel rails and an aftermarket reg to go with that fuel pump.. that was my first engine mod as we all know subaru's love to lean out.

lol you can have my old 1.3bar lamco when I rip it out? cheers.. its more an ornament than anything else its one of those ones that comes in a cluster of 3 that sits below radio.. i hooked it up more as a joke lol

i was just about to say that lol.. thats why i said yr not ment to fiddle with it.. they prob just didnt think u needed one and the cars that came with em were more a fasion statement than a need.. ive got an old lamco 1 its pretty goofy to watch as it only goes to 1 bar and i run 2bar.. poor bugger goes all the way round and back to the vac side

+1 the old vr4 turbo dash light lol

s14.. yr not ment to fiddle with the boost so why would u need a gauge lol

+1

your probly better off getting someone from here to check it or take it to alex in highbrooke if your from auckland.. AA inspections dont really tell you much as they just do a general 100 point check.. some one like alex knows the cars in and out..

You still got that rs then or another car? if yr asking me? then yip still got rskikn it\'s goin off the road again soon.. redoin engine bay set up move turbo, do some more custom work shorten some of the plumbing etc and prob freshen up the motor with some new rings and bearing an wot not.. prob do some major head and cam work while the motors out get some more power out of it..

20 year rule does not void frontal impact and its the standards they fail it on. the tyres have to have standards ie dot4 jis etc. brake pads are the same deal they need standards. compliance is the same for 20 year old car as it is for a new one there is no difference its just more likely to fail because its old.. like rust or accident damge or repairs done in japan then like a new car u will need repair cert and if its modified u will need lvv cert the same as a new car.. the closer it is to standard the better.. find a broker who knows what there doing to find one for u or go over yr self or u will get a lemon.. u can take it before compliance and do brakes tyres etc but do not do any rust repairs it needs to fail first as inspector needs to see before and after repairs are done say if surface rust and u paint over it it will have to be stripped off so he can see for him self it was only surface rust then u will have to redo it.. lvv u can do before compliance..

guess mine was built right then.. and id say its more the person who machines the blocks problem.. but then i know alot of wisecos that are noisey and there not all built by the same person or the same machinest.. think ill just stick to nice quiet je pistons.. oh on another note tho if yr offering to make there motors quiet ive got 7 mates who would love for u to rebuild there motors.. where is yr workshop?

ive always only ever liked two subys and still do but worship them all.. the coupe including 22b etc and the bc5 ive got v7 running gear box brakes diff hubs etc and 300kw on tap so it dosent feel anything like a standard bc but if i was given a choice of v3-v4 sti or standard bc id have to say v3.. light body close box best bloody cams out of the box and a vf22 vs fat ass soggy box rubbish hydo lifters and if yr lucky a td05..

this is awesome!!! not my kind of car but still think its cool.. the amount of effort put in and from the looks of the tractor hoist a real back yard mates rates build.. which i prefer over heres my keys and the morgage to my house please make my car cool.. THANKS INSTANT FINANCE!!! hahahaha

wiseco always seam to be noisey with alot of piston snap but never heard of em failing.. know a few guys who run em but are noisey next to my je\'s and ive been running 2bar of boost on and off for the last 2years never runs below 22psi feels slow any lower than that lol

dont we have a dumb question thread for this stuff lol

oh I was serious, unless you live on a State Highway doing 0-100kph in 4 seconds straight after exiting your driveway what's the point other than pissing off your neighbours and wasting gas in winter is a good way to warm the cabin up or defrost windows maybe I never warm mine up... i warm mine up a little then just dont thrash it till its warmed right up.. and i have a mate whos an idiot who will start his back it out and kane the crap out of it.. like out the drive then red line it in first and second.. guess it comes back to respect for your toys and ego..

i was askin in general not just on the long trips say you hammer it a few times on the way to work.. which is like a half hour trip.. get sum heat into the garrett.. would the idle down time matter then??

+1

those are actually made in korea by samsung lol..

are the turbos wet float?? mate of mine was lookin at getting one for his forester.. rather have a td05 20g for steve that way if you have problems etc (you shouldnt) you can just pop back in.. ive got a flow chart somewhere for a td05 20g flows better than the knock off gt35s and t04e..

oh mint.. good to know but if you do rape the car at the end of the trip the other option would be to idle down longer??

its a big as mess to import to oz you gotta go threw raws its there ltsa over there.. you better off importing it as a race car then buying a shell over there and swaping the parts over.. it is worth doin if its got heaps on it as parts and tuning is expensive ova there.. i went into subby tuning shop over there and showed em a few pics of my car and the dyno sheets and they didnt know wat the hell to make of it!!! they kept askin are you sure thats a road car?? you can drive it to work?? you dont need a special licence?? hahahahaha.. but back on topic you basicly you have to get the car ok'ed by raws to bring into the country then you have to find a shop that is licenced to comply yr car but make sure they can comply yr model!! sum can comply a subaru impreza but not a wrx.. you need to sort all that before you ship the car as you cant touch it till its complyed.. aka itll sit on the dock till u have the paper work in hand and u have to pay storage fees.. also dont forget the towing.. oh and u cant fix stuff your self they do it at the shop.. so basicly u just gotta grin and bear it.. like i said biggggggggg asssssss messss!!!!!!! also forgot to say if you ship it then they say no you cant comply it then you either have to ship it back at you own expense or get it destroyed.... gotta love the ozzies ;D

wat ecu?? are you running after market comp with the yellows?? and did you use a 90deg silicon join for the front of the turbo to filter?? might be easier to run twisted turbo set up?? can buy bolt on flange from scarles not sure how much tho..