jacsmiley

dont do it unless youre prepared to replace things. trust me. welding the center diff is the hardest part. if you continue with the conversion make sure you replace the rear trailing arm bushes with either solid bushes, replace whole trailing arms that already have solid bushes or rose jointed trailing arms. good rear shocks or adjusties will help with axel tramp too

it has a nz rego holder in the window and what looks to be a nz warrant sticker but not 100% visible dam bet you he feels a bit stink!! haha

yup V6 has a kind of step-up. so 2 plains.

are those the DTM rims? Yup DTM 099 BRZ. i didnt have the center cap in coz they look ugly

my V5 had standard shocks with low king springs thats with 18in wheels. perfect ride hight and all around drivabilty. if you dont want to muck around with different spring rates etc then new shocks with lowered spring is the way to go. remember you dont just slap in a set of adjusties and leave them... the top hats take abuse and need servicing/replacing as road driving you tend to find bucket loads more bumps than the track. at least on the track you learn to know where the bad bumps are im with the lowered standard suspention lot. if you dont need the adjustability then stay standard type coils. good looks and a much more comfy ride

is all your intercooler pipping and BOV properly clamped/closed? if theres a boost leak it can cause the surging/stalling. does it do it when stationary while trying to give it gas? im just asking as those symptoms are the same somtimes when you unplug the AFM and the CPU may think that AFM isnt doing its job because you could have a boost leak http://ken-gilbert.com/wrx/mans/3%20-%20DOHC%20ENGINE.PDF try this link. it helped me heaps but was ok with trouble shooting

+1

first thing as sultan said is the ecu get that first and go from there. you have to remember that the ECU doesnt give two shtts what motor it is controlling. it measures and controls accordingly. a correct and propper tune wil actually put less stress on your internals while giving you an increase in power through efficiency alone. the non turbo head gaskets could be an issue tho, but the compression can be compensated for in the tune. me i would sort the brains and fuel (pump, injectors, reg etc) together, along with the usual exhaust intake mods etc etc etc and leave it as is.

i wouldnt see a problem but there is still a bit of grey area as to what youre asking about the STI lsd. dont worry bout the dccd that should be sweet. youre just swapping the open center of the front diff to an lsd unit right? using the original crown wheel etc?? if it doesnt change the ratio from 4.1 and youre running a 4.1 rear diff then you should be sweet. make sure the sti unit came out of a g/box that was 4.1 it may be a R160 crown wheel but it could be a 4.444. make sure the lsd have an identical crown wheel do you have a dccd?

yesterday replaced a snapped axel. and do you think its easy to find anything to do with having a R180??!! lets just say i have a very good mate who helped me out

haha opps sorry yeah couldnt remember been a couple months since i touched that

24mm i think. shit i think it is. cant remember but sure it 24

haha my old ex lancer all ways got a hiding cold. i had to pull onto a 100k road everymorning and i never warmed it up! i tell you the old mitsi 4G11 1250cc took some abuse

haha know the feeling!! i rekon start the car, run in kiss the mrs goodbye, put shoes on, pat the dog shut the gge door and drive off nicely off boost under 3krpm

yes. you need to know if the new gb has the same final drive as the old one first. if the center diff was the cause of the binding then thats a straight forward swap. but if it is because the front and rear final drives were different then you will have the excact same issue after you change the center diff.