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Found 2 results

  1. Hey guys so after months of a headache with my wrx I've decided too come here and see if anyone has experienced what my cars doing. So resently my 1996 wrx gc8 type ra. Has a check light issue. Everytime I start the car check lights on. And stays on. If I let the car warm up for 30min minimum. Then turn the key off then back on quickly check light disappears and wont return untill I turn the car off for longer then 5min. Have done a diagnostics check and came back with error codes 24 44 and 45. 24 idle air control sensor. I have replaced no change at all. 44 turbo wastegate regulator and 45 map sensor. I haven't replaced these two as of yet as I'm not sure why when the car is cold it would effect these two sensors? Have noticed today when I first started the car I made sure check light was on then turned car off connected the diagnostic plugs under the dash and anyone who has done this will no that the fans ect will all come on going thru their test cycles. Well when cold and check light present the wastegate pressure solenoid does nothing. But after leaving the car to idle for 30min then getting the check light to turn off. I quickly turn car off connected the plugs under dash and the wastegate soilenoid now clicks loud and fast as it should. Sorry for the long write up guys but surely someone can help me out?
  2. Hi, My my99 WRX has been throwing Check engine light on boost uphill lately. The car pulls alright doing 0-100 or wide open throttle in 2nd gear and 3 gear, but if I get it on boost a little bit when going uphill at highway speed(say 4th gear at 90kph over the harbour bridge), I get a check engine light every now and then. It started doing this 2 years ago, but now it's more frequent. I get code 23, 32 and 52 in diagnostic mode. The code 32 was always there, but the code 23 and 52 is new. The car drives fine off boost and I get 8L/100km on longer trips so I think the O2 sensor is alright, and the exhaust smells normal. The car smells a bit rich on cold start. I was under the impression those car use MAF on cold start, but only O2 sensor at operating temp, and then use both on boost to calculate AF ratio, so I kind of think the MAF is to blame for the check engine light? But how to explain the Check engine light only come up when on low boost for long period of time rather than on full boost? I have sprayed MAF cleaner a few times but it doesn't seem to help. I am running a cheap panel air filter with the standard airbox. The car is NZ spec with ej205 completely stock apart from sway bars, it has 280000kms on the clock, I am not driving the car until I fix the problem since I really want to get to 400000kms on this car without open the engine. Any thought guys? Thanks in advance.
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