what brake pads

[Jammasta]

TS2000 and good fluid from this corner as well.

[Munkvy]

 newsuba said:

Best VFM... stock rotors, good pads and fluid, properly bedded in and cooled down after a hot run.

Absolutely agree. This is the best combination to start with.

As far as choosing pads, go with the recommendation of someone you trust. Not what people say on the internet.

Talk to people who work on and/or own Rally/Race cars and find out what they use and why. And then make an informed decision.

Remember that alot of the opinions you are hearing here are from very different setups, some people are using road tyres on the track and in some cases driving road cars. These setups will behave differently from someone using semi slicks on their road car at the track, and different again from someone on semi slicks/full slicks on a race car...

My 2c.

[Koom]

 Munkvy']

[quote name='newsuba said:

Best VFM... stock rotors, good pads and fluid, properly bedded in and cooled down after a hot run.

/quote]

Absolutely agree. This is the best combination to start with.

As far as choosing pads, go with the recommendation of someone you trust. Not what people say on the internet.

Talk to people who work on and/or own Rally/Race cars and find out what they use and why. And then make an informed decision.

Remember that alot of the opinions you are hearing here are from very different setups, some people are using road tyres on the track and in some cases driving road cars. These setups will behave differently from someone using semi slicks on their road car at the track, and different again from someone on semi slicks/full slicks on a race car...

My 2c.

Great advice.

I've used Ultimates/Standard Rotors/Motul RBF600 for the last few years and it does the trick for trackdays on street tyres. I'll be upgrading to some much better pads once I get round to getting some semi-slicks as I feel the current combo is at its limit with my current grip levels.

We used Znoelli Slotted Rotors/Project Mu HC++ Pads/Motul RBF600 for the Silverfern Rally. The pads lasted two days for each front set which seemed excessive but it was the equivalent of a full seasons worth of rallying within 8 days.

We have since been given a set of Project Mu pads of a new compound to test during this rally season and have been told to only need to change them once in a season. Used them for one rally at end of last season and they still looked brand new afterwards.

[BC5RA]

 Koom']

[quote name='newsuba said:

Best VFM... stock rotors, good pads and fluid, properly bedded in and cooled down after a hot run.

/quote]

Absolutely agree. This is the best combination to start with.

As far as choosing pads, go with the recommendation of someone you trust. Not what people say on the internet.

Talk to people who work on and/or own Rally/Race cars and find out what they use and why. And then make an informed decision.

Remember that alot of the opinions you are hearing here are from very different setups, some people are using road tyres on the track and in some cases driving road cars. These setups will behave differently from someone using semi slicks on their road car at the track, and different again from someone on semi slicks/full slicks on a race car...

My 2c.

Great advice.

I've used Ultimates/Standard Rotors/Motul RBF600 for the last few years and it does the trick for trackdays on street tyres. I'll be upgrading to some much better pads once I get round to getting some semi-slicks as I feel the current combo is at its limit with my current grip levels.

We used Znoelli Slotted Rotors/Project Mu HC++ Pads/Motul RBF600 for the Silverfern Rally. The pads lasted two days for each front set which seemed excessive but it was the equivalent of a full seasons worth of rallying within 8 days.

We have since been given a set of Project Mu pads of a new compound to test during this rally season and have been told to only need to change them once in a season. Used them for one rally at end of last season and they still looked brand new afterwards.

+1 on great advice, I use the same setup as you Koom on the street i find (besides the dust) it to be more than adequate.

Have yet to drive competitively (at an event :) but intend to do so later this year. Thanks again for the advice Munkvy.

[QRAF]

thats what i did took the advise from someone else who said ebc greens were great and if you got the money go for black so $300 LATER I'm here talking about if i should keep my pads as they warped my rotors.

I'm kicking myself now as driftrex was going to do my brake fluid replce it with that blue stuff when he did his own and notanotherforesters and his friends i just didn't have the money has i was buying that ebc of funkytown.

[BC5RA]

QRAF i don't understand.

The blacks are a downgrade from the greens.

You friend who gave you the advice is a tard.

[Joker]

yep : http://www.ebcbrakes.com/auto-pads.html

[QRAF]

I'll have to check the receipts

edit.

gutted there black i'm going to visit the guy with this website tomorrow morning before work.

[WRXER]

I've tried EBC greens, and really don't rate them at all. Then tried bendix ultimates which were OK but hell dusty, and have since found the TS2000's were a great pad using street tyres.

Will be trying a new combination of semi-slick/compound pad at the next track meet so will see how things go.

[Guest]

ok i see i opened a hornets nest . next question where do i get ts 2000 pads from in chch and who will do a fluid change for a good price?????????????/

[Guest]

oh one more thing ebc redstuff is the upgrade from green . i used to sell ebc in south africa it is not as good as they say hence the question as to what you guys use.

[WRXER]

Cheapest I found was just going into the BNT here in chch and grabbing them. Got a set of fronts for $170 for sti 4 pots.

[newsuba]

That's a good price.

Last set I got from Racebrakes was $175+gst.

Ripco wanted $200+

For those who don't know... TS2000 are also known as Ferodo Formula.

[Guest]

Remember brake pads are only as good as your tyres.

No point putting any good pads on crap tyres they will just lockup

[Guest]

...but good pads have superior feel and fade resistance. Great pads are worth their weight in gold regardless of the tyres you use, though obviously you get the best results with great rubber too.

[BC5RA]

Can everybody put there hands up who have used EBC pads and there concerns.

[Guest boostcut]

as i said before i used ebc brakes because my uncle who runs a new ford gt40 endurance car uses them and said they perform very well. and i found the same but it may be driving style aswell? everybody has a different opinion... i think alot of people expect to put good pads in and wonder why it dont stop well but the pad is probably not in its operating temp range or other variables . (excuse my lecture) race cars have twin master cylinders(willwood) and huge brakes with no power booster( for more feel) and some expect their street car to perform the same...

[albaru]

No one has yet mentioned EBC red stuff ceramic pads. I've had 2 sets and combined with very good fluid, they are excellent.

[BC5RA]

 al said:

No one has yet mentioned EBC red stuff ceramic pads. I've had 2 sets and combined with very good fluid, they are excellent.

These are the pads i was thinking of upgrading to. Certainly better suited to track work.

[newsuba]

Used Reds and Greens back in the day when they were the shizz.

Both were prone to early fade.

Random build quality.

Poor build = poor fit.

Sometimes noisy.

Honda bike guys don't think much of them either.

There was a guy on an overseas Golf GTI forum who was a re-seller but even he didn't recommend them.

At one time EBC were making contingency payments to users and free replacements.

Product info all over the show.

Some brochures say Red/Green Ok for track work, some say not.

New formulations since I used them ?

Who knows ?

I don't recall any mention of ceramic material on the Reds I tried.

But if Al sez they are excellent, that's good enough for me.

;D

(Assuming that's the Al I think it is...)

Expensive at ~$200 for Greens, ~$400 for Reds.

For track alternatives try Ferodo, Mintex, Endless, Pagid etc

Usual riders... YMMV yada yada yada

[Guest]

 QRAF said:

thats what i did took the advise from someone else who said ebc greens were great and if you got the money go for black so $300 LATER I'm here talking about if i should keep my pads as they warped my rotors.

I'm kicking myself now as driftrex was going to do my brake fluid replce it with that blue stuff when he did his own and notanotherforesters and his friends i just didn't have the money has i was buying that ebc of funkytown.

LMFAO.... Your pads did NOT warp your rotors !! YOU DID, poor cool down technique and holding your foot on the brake after a decent stop

OK, my 2c, currently running EBC Yellows in the V5, yes it does alot of track work, but is also a daily driver

Performance on the track = brilliant, no fade after 10-15 Laps HARD driving and braking from 200km/h (on the track )

Performance on the road = Slightly higher effort to make car stop, due to pad temps too low. Most people would not notice this cold differnce !!

Dust = heavy and cleans off very easily

Wear = Have done in excess of 200laps (600km's) at race pace and 5000km of road driving= pads are now 2/3 worn and will be replaced after next track day

Price = HUGE about $380 per end of the car !! (from memory)

rating out of 10 = 9.0

[albaru]

 newsuba said:

(Assuming that's the Al I think it is...)

Yup, smee

[QRAF]

this was my first track day so it was a good learning experience expensive in the long run i can see but the rex is just parked up in the garage for now.

So on the warm down lap what speeds are you meant to go to cool the brakes down.

I think well i'm pretty sure i did the damage in the morning for the cones when we pulled the abs fuse out and i was locking the brakes up when stopping and swinging the car around but i wasn't very experienced at doing that and it showed lol

[Guest keltik]

 QRAF said:

So on the warm down lap what speeds are you meant to go to cool the brakes down.

I cruise round at about 80 and engine brake into all the corners....i dont even touch the pedal when i stop in the pits. That way the brakes have had a good 2 or 3 mins on the track without use to cool off.

The motorkhana wouldnt have got enough heat into your rotors unless you did something seriously wrong. Definately the hot laps that killed them

[QRAF]

Lesson learned 80km/s and end braking around corners.

i never new but i guess i should of asked earlier.