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Suitable Oils


Swindog

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 pappu']

[quote name='pappu said:

always change 3-5k tho

anyone got a link to the test mentioned above?

/quote]

Same here. However ever 2k my oil starts to look pretty black :S

agreed - its always black..

never wondered too much on that tho lol

where can i buy magnetec for 10bucks for the bottle

haha wudnt mind stocking on that?

hell even 20 per bottle i wud buy lots

\beats paying 30+

Repco I believe has Magnatec + Calibre Injector clear for $38 atm

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 Swindog said:

It shuold be black. Means its working. If its still the amber oil colour after 5000km i would suggest your not pumping any oil scotty.

Understandably it wouldn't be sexy new golden brand new, just don't know whether the colour deterioration at point is cause for concern or not :)

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 pappu said:

but if they buy it for $8.50 for 4 litres

and sell for over 30, why cant we get i dunno say for 20 from wherever they get from

damm pirates if its true!!

The price quoted they buy at isnt exactly right according to a contact I have in Supercheap purchasing.

They have to make a markup to and I would guess they purchase it by the thousands of litres also if they only order for NZ. If they order for Aus and NZ together probably more like 10-100 thousand litre lots. That will certainly help there low purchase price ;)

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 Johnnynz']

[quote name='pappu said:

but if they buy it for $8.50 for 4 litres

and sell for over 30, why cant we get i dunno say for 20 from wherever they get from

damm pirates if its true!!

/quote]

The price quoted they buy at isnt exactly right according to a contact I have in Supercheap purchasing.

They have to make a markup to and I would guess they purchase it by the thousands of litres also if they only order for NZ. If they order for Aus and NZ together probably more like 10-100 thousand litre lots. That will certainly help there low purchase price ;)

Probably helps that Castrol makes it by large quantities too therefore supply is higher so price is lower.

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  • 3 months later...

i understand that the "Castrol" connection to subaru was something to do with Possum.

The "Elf" connection through Prodrive

Further to this Prodrive changed to "Motul" early 2000's

Weights of oil are dependant on what you are doing...I.E cruising around nana pam style or Racing around in your fully forged machine.

Synthetic are usually the best due to their higher detergent qualities, But should be changed on a regular basis depending on engine use/abuse.

Huge opinions on what is best and how often one should change it.(each to their own i reckon)

A good test of how used oil is:- Blotter carbon test.

I.e one drop of clean oil onto white filter paper (blotting paper will do)

Mix a small sample of your sump oil 50/50 with new oil, apply the same drop size to a new piece of paper.

Also do a one drop of straight sump oil sample onto a 3rd sheet.

Leave all 3 samples for around an hour.

The clean new oil sample should be the biggest diameter.

The 50/50 sample will or should be approx 75% of the size..Any larger than the new oil sample (fuel contamination) or less than 75% (Weight increasing)...Change it!

The straight sample will show you carbon accumulation..If the carbon ring diameter (Black area!, not the total ring size) is greater than 50% of the "new" oil sample ring full size ....Change it!

As mentioned in this post, Mileage alone is not a good way to judge it. :( Testing is the best way ;)

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  • 3 weeks later...

whatever your car is you should always run the recommended grade oil specified by the manufacturer.....does anyone really think that the highly qualified and experienced engineers at fuji heavy industries didn\'t know what they were doing when they made any one particular engine???

The engines are designed and machined very accurately with very specific clearances between any and all moving surfaces. Those clearances (very small gaps) along with oil pressure/oil grade/operating temp all factor into just how much oil flows over a particular surface at any one time. A lot of people don\'t seem to realize that if your using an oil that begins with 10W you should only use it during the summer as 10W oils only retain they\'re working viscosity down to approx 5degrees C.......under 5dgC and the oil hardly flows and your engine will most likely starve of flow on cold start up. To be safe for winter and summer you should run a 5W simple as that (as long as its recommended)

When your running a higher grade oil than recommended on the second number e.g. the 40/50/60 etc. you are also starving the moving components of the engine of oil again as the higher the second grade number the thicker the oil will be at standard operating temp when the car is running.

IMO the only time you should run a higher grade oil than recommended is when have had your engine rebuilt and all clearances of moving parts have been increased over factory spec and therefore the higher grade is more suitable for lubrication and removal of heat etc or you might use a slightly higher grade oil if you are racing your car (as in actual full load at every possible moment for extended periods racing it!-not just giving it berries at the lights cos the guy next to you wants a drag race or caning it on the open road for a few mins) because when you honestly think about it how often does anyone drive their car at max intensity for long periods on the open road as you can cover huge distances in very short time and lose your license at the drop of a hat.

The reason you might use a higher grade oil if your racing your car is that as the temp of an oil goes up in general it\'s viscosity (resistance to flow goes down-it gets thinner and flows easier) in general your engine oil will run hotter when racing and even though you might be using a higher grade like a 50/60 due to the higher oil temp and ergo lowering in viscosity it might flow through the bearings and moving parts the same as your factory recommended 30/40.

Just as a note i once looked at this guys oil forum www.bobistheoilguy.com/ and his very professional opinion was that you should NEVER! run a 10W40 in a car where the recommended oil is a 5w30.

i hope this of help to anyone that reads it and btw i\'m not a professional so if any of the above is inaccurate please feel free to correct me :)

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 Tylerct said:

So... am I correct in assuming that living in queenstown where its been getting below zero in winter and then going way up into the high 20\'s in summer, I\'d need to change the types of oil im using as the seasons change?

an oil beginning with 5W would be most suitable for those conditions as it still cold cranks all the way down to minus 25degrees (this will mean oil still flows on start up all the down to a limit of approx -25dg during winter/snow conditions and still flow sufficiently during summer conditions) If your car was manufactured for 5W30 just remember that you don\'t really have to worry about the running temp viscosity being affected by temp changes from cold winter to hot summer (the running temp viscosity.....is the 30 in the 5W30) because the running temp of your engine is controlled by the engines thermostat and coolant system and it will maintain a very consistent running temp regardless of exterior conditions (cold or hot)

To be really sure about what you should run you should ask bob the oil guy at www.bobistheoilguy.com/ the site is very informative and he is an absolute expert so i\'m sure he would know exactly what grade oil/oils to run during seasonal changes for you.

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 FasterLouder said:

Screw Magnatec! >:(

I\'m friends with someone who\'s worked at an autoparts chain for a long time (it ends with *****cheap) and of all the oil they buy in,Magnatec is the cheapest,by a HUGE margin.

Other oils,like Mobil,Valvoline,Penrite etc,they make about an $8 - $10 profit on,max.

Magnatec,I crap you not,they buy in for $8.50 for 4 litres! :o

That\'s the reason most garages stock it and push it,it\'s cheap crap and if your engine grenades,they get to make some more money off you by rebuilding your engine ( A Subaru tech at Wingers told me this,when I asked him why they used Magnatec!).

My car was running 10-30 Magnatec,when I bought it,it had an oil and filter change a month before I took posession...As soon as I found out it was Magnatec,I drained it and filled it up with 10-40 Nulon.

The Magnatec I drained out looked as dark as marmite.

The Nulon\'s been in the car for three months and is as clean as the day I put it in.

The car LOVES it.

It\'s quiter,runs cooler and is staying super clean.

Royal Purple did an oil shootout test and Magnatec came in last...WAY last.

Penrite came first,Royal Purple second and Nulon third.

Gotta be an unbiased test for their own product to come in second...

You have absolutely no idea what your talking about, for one magnatech is 10w40 not 10w30 secondly it isn\'t crap it\'s one of castrols better oils, thirdly they don\'t buy it in for $8.50 I should know I work there, I could list alot more but you seem to be in your own world so probably won\'t even listen

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*the higher the second grade number the thicker the oil will be at standard operating temp*

also a load of bs oil doesn\'t get thicker when it heats up it thins out, the last number is how stable it is at higher temps so for example you could give your car a mad thrashing using 10w60 and the oil would be fine and still doing its job how ever 10w30 isn\'t good for hot running motors that get a hard life, I used it and gave it a few good red lines and it did the big end bearing

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 scoobygt said:

*the higher the second grade number the thicker the oil will be at standard operating temp*

also a load of bs oil doesn\'t get thicker when it heats up it thins out, the last number is how stable it is at higher temps so for example you could give your car a mad thrashing using 10w60 and the oil would be fine and still doing its job how ever 10w30 isn\'t good for hot running motors that get a hard life, I used it and gave it a few good red lines and it did the big end bearing

the second number is not a measure of how stable the oil is under hotter conditions (it\'s the viscosity of the oil at 100 dgC) and 10W60 is more than 100% thicker than 10W30 at 100dgC which means it\'s flowing through the bearings and moving components of an engine an immense amount slower than 10W30 at 100dgC and ergo removing far less heat from bearings and moving components and potentially starving them of lubricant and causing cavitation. I\'d only use 10W60 if was strictly racing a vehicle and the oil temp was averaging around 140dgC-at which point 10W60 viscosity is the same as 10W30 at 100dgC, which measured in centistokes is 10Cs

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 B4 I was 250T said:

Just done my oil change using magnatec...bitch starting smoking like nobodies business, even under light throttle :( Went down to workshop and they said it was probably way too thin! Guy chucked some oil in and smoking stopped. Very confused but was told I should be using Penrite 20-60.

Thats way too thick especially if it\'s a semi syn or mineral. just for anyone that doesn\'t know a 0W60 is far thicker on start up than it is at running temp of 100dgC most cars are designed to run with an oil temp of 100dgC which means that even a 0W oil is too thick on start up for just about any modern car. A 20W60 is very thick on start up and even more so on cold mornings (to the point it will not flow around the engine and lubricate bearings and components) to keep it as simple as possible it is better to temporarily use an oil that has too low of a viscosity rating than one that is too high......if your car is smoking that much on start up due worn rings/piston/cylinders and you want to reduce the smoke level by using a thicker oil, start with an API SL/SM synthetic 0W40 or 5W40 during winter and use a 10W40 or 15w40 during summer if you have too to stop smoking or at the most i would say a 0W/5W/10W or 15W50 but to be honest if your needing to use a 50 or 60 viscosity oil to prevent engine smoke i\'s say your car is either in need of a bit of rebuild in the piston department or the valve stem seals are leaking oil via the intake port which then goes into the combustion chamber turning to smoke or exhaust ports which also burns via exhaust gases which are oxygen deficient-resulting in lots of smoke again (which is likely if your car is only blowing smoke on start up or after you\'ve been sitting at the lights then take off) or your air filter is horridly in need of replacement or perhaps if your car is turbo charged oil may be entering via the intake tract.

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Ok, that was far too detailed for my brain. Doing oil change this weekend on our \'01 Blitzen, 190ks, what oil to use? Not really wanting to spend cash on fully synthetic right now, will once I start receiving pay again in a couple weeks but til then don\'t mind running semi synthetic. Nulon 5-30 semi syn should be ok right?

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