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1999 v5/6 STI ECU problems


mr_people

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I have a 99 wrx (v5/6 im guessing) and i got a v5/6 STI type R ECU for it, swapped them over and the car wont fire. It chokes like its trying to start but wont actually kick in. I have been told that i have yellow sti injectors so it should go sweet.

any help would be much appreciated cheers club

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If the car is a 99 it has to be V5/6, easist way to tell is the coil will be off to one side on the inlet manifold.

I've got the ECU case from the car that not a foz was wrecking, its got a J2 sticker on it if that helps. I cant remember what my old one was, dont forget that car it came from was a V-Limited wasn't it?

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 Stoffa said:

If the car is a 99 it has to be V5/6, easist way to tell is the coil will be off to one side on the inlet manifold.

I've got the ECU case from the car that not a foz was wrecking, its got a J2 sticker on it if that helps. I cant remember what my old one was, dont forget that car it came from was a V-Limited wasn't it?

Yup it was, does that change it?

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Got it working!!

Original ECU is number E3

Took it to APET here in Dunedin where I live.

Nik from APET changed some wires in the loom.

changed:

Fuel Pump Relay Control, Connector No. B134, Terminals 1 and 21 (swapped wire from one to the other)

which swaps with, GND (control systems) Connector No. B136, Terminals 1 and 21 (other swap from above line),(also said there was nothing in that terminal)

and changed:

Crankshaft Position Sensor, Signal (+), Connector No. B136, Terminals 5 and 6 (cut wires and soldered to opposing wires, <cut red and white ones and soldered white to red and red to white>)

which swaps with, Camshaft Position Sensor, Signal (+), Connector No. B136, Terminals 6 and 5

Hope that isnt as confusing as it sounds lol.

Will post technical data sheets later on when I can scan them into computer.

cheers guys

& cheers APET Dunedin

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  • 6 months later...
 QRAF said:

dragging up an old post here just wondering if those changes to the ecu have to be done to every ver5/6 that swaps there computer with a sti one.

plus if he is running only 8 PSI is it in safe mode running wastegate pressure only?? if so.. maybe there are det issues with Compression Ratio (CR) miss match? the simple LED across the boost noid trick would reveal if the ECU is cycling the Bosst noid or not (if it isnt, it will be in safe mode)

Standard v5/6 WRX should be 12 PSI and v5/6 STI should be 15 PSI IIRC

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 mr_people said:

A mechanic friend said my boost tap is pretty average (i knew that) but getting an electronic one installed would be better and do away with the standard boost controller that may be restricting psi?

i'd get the stock boost control system functioning properly first, just so you know that its all kosher before adding any A/M bits.

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 QRAF said:

my car only ran 9psi when i switched the turbo to a vf22 as i was running it off the wastegate as the factory boost solenoid didn't work so i had to get an hks evc to hold the boost.

yip sure, you know what i mean though aye, if its running in safe mode (for what ever reason) and teh ECU is limiting the boost to 8-10PSI (dosent necessarily throw a CEL either) then you put a boost tap in or some other boost control, you essentilay bypass/mask the problem. therefor in this senario you are throwing 15 PSI boost (or what ever PSI) at the engine where the ECU would otherwise pull the boost back to 10PSI to protect the engine.

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Fark so that'll be why it pulls back when you hit 140kms when passing sometimes you can push through it but normally have to change down a gear. ::)

i'm going to unplug mine plug this one in and see if the car starts if not unplug it and see if it starts with the factory one again.

i was hoping it was going to show up today but no so monday night missions on hopefully.

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 QRAF said:

Fark so that'll be why it pulls back when you hit 140kms when passing sometimes you can push through it but normally have to change down a gear. ::)

i'm going to unplug mine plug this one in and see if the car starts if not unplug it and see if it starts with the factory one again.

i was hoping it was going to show up today but no so monday night missions on hopefully.

when putting the boost control back to stock, id reset the ECU afterwards then see if its back to stock boost, put it through its paces and if it is all good and well....great.

If not i.e. its only 10 PSI, i would wire in a LED test light across the boost solenoid and into the cabin and watch to see if it flashes i.e. when its flashing the boost noid IS being cycled by the ECU.

If it is flashing you have other boost issues causing 10 PSI limitations and if the LED isnt flashing its more than likely in safe mode due to other issues i.e. one being detonation (this can also be a crook knock sensor) and so on and so forth ;D

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