Reset ECU after putting 95 Octane??

[kamineko]

thats a typical description of 'limp home' mode

the ecu is picking up excessive ping or knock and pulling back on boost. if it still does it on 98 maybe your fuel delivery is suffering, a new fuel filter or injector cleaner may help

[Guest]

 kamineko said:

thats a typical description of 'limp home' mode

the ecu is picking up excessive ping or knock and pulling back on boost. if it still does it on 98 maybe your fuel delivery is suffering, a new fuel filter or injector cleaner may help

LOL then again I need to replace my knock sensor...

Hey do you guys know where I could get my knock sensor replaced reliably and cheap ard eastern/central auckland area?

[Guest]

 JoKer said:

you can try pumping the brake pedal at same time - APPARENTLY helps drain residual power from circuitry (not proven method)

24hrs un plug/overnight has always been the best bet - and/or try ECU reset procedure (green and black diagnostic plugs snd gor for a drive over 11 kph till CEL flashes continuously)

I had a 350z with a eathing kit that had a blue box full of lights god knows what they did. But anyway after diconceting the battery the lights kept flashing only after i pumped the break a few times did the go out or as i suspect got drained of power so imo it does work

[kamineko]

 vteca']

[quote name='JoKer said:

you can try pumping the brake pedal at same time - APPARENTLY helps drain residual power from circuitry (not proven method)

24hrs un plug/overnight has always been the best bet - and/or try ECU reset procedure (green and black diagnostic plugs snd gor for a drive over 11 kph till CEL flashes continuously)

/quote]

I had a 350z with a eathing kit that had a blue box full of lights god knows what they did. But anyway after diconceting the battery the lights kept flashing only after i pumped the break a few times did the go out or as i suspect got drained of power so imo it does work

yes thats the *idea* but when you understand more about electronics there is more to it. the ECU has its own reservoir caps as Durty-Sanchez has mentioned, and they will only start discharging after theres no more power being supplied

so pushing brakes till lights go out will speed things up but u still have to wait till the ecu is discharged for it to clear, and who knows how long that takes.

just use the normal reset procedure, connect both plugs, drive until constant flashing CEL. disconnect plugs. done.

[log1call]

The procedure with the two diagnostic plugs only clears the memory of trouble codes, it does not "reset" the ecu. The ecu resets everytime you start it and the whole time you are driving it. If you have done something to your car and you want to check the result/difference then you just need to go for a drive which incorporates all modes of driving. So, start cold and take off with little throttle, then wind it up a bit then finally try to wind it out, then once it's warm repeat the process going from small throttle and light loads right through to full throttle and a heavy load. Now that you have convinced the ecu that you are a real thrasher it will run better for you... untill it decides next week that you are a towny crawling to work in the rush hour at which stage it will adjust the maps for fuel and ignition again to suit that.

If you want your car to run well you need to build up to it for a few minutes of driving.

[off2harrys]

the only reason i used 98 was because we have pak n save fuel saver dockets,my car prob run better on 95 even before v power come out

[THUNDA]

my car is tuned for 95 and i only use 95, never had problems with detonating at all (well not that i know of) and my car runs perfectly, regular services and good warmups on cold mornings, treat her well and she'll do the same

[Guest swiftbrad]

 log1call said:

The procedure with the two diagnostic plugs only clears the memory of trouble codes, it does not "reset" the ecu. The ecu resets everytime you start it and the whole time you are driving it. If you have done something to your car and you want to check the result/difference then you just need to go for a drive which incorporates all modes of driving. So, start cold and take off with little throttle, then wind it up a bit then finally try to wind it out, then once it's warm repeat the process going from small throttle and light loads right through to full throttle and a heavy load. Now that you have convinced the ecu that you are a real thrasher it will run better for you... untill it decides next week that you are a towny crawling to work in the rush hour at which stage it will adjust the maps for fuel and ignition again to suit that.

If you want your car to run well you need to build up to it for a few minutes of driving.

Is this true? noone yets mentioned this that I can find and seems pretty logical

[BC5RA]

 swiftbrad']

[quote name='log1call said:

The procedure with the two diagnostic plugs only clears the memory of trouble codes, it does not "reset" the ecu. The ecu resets everytime you start it and the whole time you are driving it. If you have done something to your car and you want to check the result/difference then you just need to go for a drive which incorporates all modes of driving. So, start cold and take off with little throttle, then wind it up a bit then finally try to wind it out, then once it's warm repeat the process going from small throttle and light loads right through to full throttle and a heavy load. Now that you have convinced the ecu that you are a real thrasher it will run better for you... untill it decides next week that you are a towny crawling to work in the rush hour at which stage it will adjust the maps for fuel and ignition again to suit that.

If you want your car to run well you need to build up to it for a few minutes of driving.

/quote]

Is this true? noone yets mentioned this that I can find and seems pretty logical

When the car is being driven on part throttle it is in Closed loop mode; it is constantly making adjustments to the Fuel maps via the TPS, 02, MAP, AFM sensor's.

On full throttle it enter Open loop mode, which it defers to Preset maps for good performance and engine safety.

[Guest]

closed and open loop around the other way dude

[BC5RA]

Thanks ^^^

I get those two confused.

Closed Loop in my mind sounds more like the ECU shutting of readings from the Sensors.

[Guest]

Closed loop inc O2

Open loop no O2

[smokn4]

 log1call said:

The procedure with the two diagnostic plugs only clears the memory of trouble codes, it does not "reset" the ecu. The ecu resets everytime you start it and the whole time you are driving it. If you have done something to your car and you want to check the result/difference then you just need to go for a drive which incorporates all modes of driving. So, start cold and take off with little throttle, then wind it up a bit then finally try to wind it out, then once it's warm repeat the process going from small throttle and light loads right through to full throttle and a heavy load. Now that you have convinced the ecu that you are a real thrasher it will run better for you... untill it decides next week that you are a towny crawling to work in the rush hour at which stage it will adjust the maps for fuel and ignition again to suit that.

If you want your car to run well you need to build up to it for a few minutes of driving.

does this apply to the V1's aswell or just the late models

[Guest swiftbrad]

... does that mean if I change from 91 to 98 then under normal driving conditions the ecu may recognise the change in fuel but under more load/harder driving then its much the same as it then follows pre sets? Pre set map settings come from where?

ecu learning that I have been using 91?? or...

[Guest]

 log1call said:

The procedure with the two diagnostic plugs only clears the memory of trouble codes, it does not "reset" the ecu. The ecu resets everytime you start it and the whole time you are driving it. If you have done something to your car and you want to check the result/difference then you just need to go for a drive which incorporates all modes of driving. So, start cold and take off with little throttle, then wind it up a bit then finally try to wind it out, then once it's warm repeat the process going from small throttle and light loads right through to full throttle and a heavy load. Now that you have convinced the ecu that you are a real thrasher it will run better for you... untill it decides next week that you are a towny crawling to work in the rush hour at which stage it will adjust the maps for fuel and ignition again to suit that.

If you want your car to run well you need to build up to it for a few minutes of driving.

What a load of CRAP, your statement should feature on the next Muppet show ! ha ha ha

Correct proceedure with diag plugs and ign switch WILL reset ecu !

Ecu will learn knock and will only very slowly reinstate ign advance to ign map if knock signal not present

ECU Does not reset everytime you start it !

A/f learning fuction is real time based on o2 and correction value is not held by ECU !

[Guest]

i was thinking this myself i was useing 91 on my 1st gen for a good 6 months no problems then heard 98 was better so used up every bit of 91 gas in my tank then started using 98 from gull no probs yet but tonight i was out ran outa gas and only place close was shell and only had 95 so is that gunna fuck it up some how? im real paranoid haha

[BC5RA]

Your car will be fine.

[Bazza-NZ]

 BC5RA said:

Your car will be fine.

It's a Subaru after all, its bound it go BOOM at some stage ;D

[Guest]

hahaha true