RWD converted questions on D/S loops & rear axle mods

[Guest]

 zarnah said:

heres a couple pics of the break, snapped just outside of the inner spline and i cant get over how clean the cut is, looks like the shaft was machined that way haha

How come your shafts are so thin? Mine are really thick, I havent had any problems with my new rear diff and shafts

[Guest vf20/21bg5]

 liquid_ice']

[quote name='zarnah said:

heres a couple pics of the break, snapped just outside of the inner spline and i cant get over how clean the cut is, looks like the shaft was machined that way haha

IMG]http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/pp53/zarnah/P1110001.jpg[/img]

How come your shafts are so thin? Mine are really thick, I havent had any problems with my new rear diff and shafts

what are yours off that they are so thick?Thought most of them through the 90's were all the same?

[zarnah]

every factory shaft i have seen is that size?

[Guest]

 zarnah said:

every factory shaft i have seen is that size?

Measure yours and I will measure mine

Mine even look different and I haven't had any trouble with them

I was told you can use front shafts but they have the wrong spine count

[gotasuby]

yes you need 2 of them said the cert guy in case either one broke

[Guest vf20/21bg5]

 gotasuby said:

yes you need 2 of them said the cert guy in case either one broke

cool cheers

[Guest vf20/21bg5]

wish i could easily adapt sumthing like these to my r160 diff and hubs but i realise id need to start with another diff for it to be easy.....so many thoughts.http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/Car-parts-accessories/Nissan/Diffs-axles/auction-343737316.htm

[DRFVDR]

do the flanges not just pop in to the diff,it may be as easy as that

[Guest vf20/21bg5]

..and has anyone known in clubsubs history for the splins that fit into the rear hubs to fail or completely break on the cv joints? ....and also the same with the inner cv jointspline that connects into the diff? Im thinking of a cheaper option seeing the r160 diff hardly breaks ill keep that and chop the inner and outer cv stubs off and get them professionally welded to a set of stronger cv's and axels.... the only other thing is they could also have to lengthen or shorten the new axels.

This way it may only cost a few hundy and save me having to get a different diff and hubs to take the stronger axels.

This will work as long as no-ones really heard of the cv stubs to break or shear off in the diff or hub slines?

[Guest vf20/21bg5]

 DRFVDR said:

do the flanges not just pop in to the diff,it may be as easy as that

flanges pop off the diff with these??.http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/Car-parts-accessories/Subaru/Diffs-axles/auction-343634282.htm

[Guest vf20/21bg5]

sorry read that wrong,but still not sure what you meen

[DRFVDR]

welding on a drive shaft is not a good idea unless stress relieved correctly it will produce weak spots,

you can get new ones machined up (use to shorten 9" diffs when i was doing my apprenticeship)

[Guest vf20/21bg5]

 DRFVDR said:

welding on a drive shaft is not a good idea unless stress relieved correctly it will produce weak spots,

you can get new ones machined up (use to shorten 9" diffs when i was doing my apprenticeship)

yep fully awear of tensile strength as i remember it all to when i was at tech doing my pre-trade,thats why id take it to Hams driveshaft guys and get it done properly

[DRFVDR]

I am wondering if the Leone RX front axels are bigger will have to measure up I know the hub nuts are and the look bigger,may be able to adapt to fit,will get back to you

[Guest vf20/21bg5]

 DRFVDR said:

I am wondering if the Leone RX front axels are bigger will have to measure up I know the hub nuts are and the look bigger,may be able to adapt to fit,will get back to you

sweat as,ive also been told that a certain model Triumph is easy to adapt cv's and shafts to by a guy here at subaroo spares as he had done it to his legacy

[DRFVDR]

mmmmm if triumph then maybe Jag as well

BUT eewwwwww british crap in your suby,you really want to go there

[Guest vf20/21bg5]

 DRFVDR said:

mmmmm if triumph then maybe Jag as well

BUT eewwwwww british crap in your suby,you really want to go there

if its cheap and its easy and it works then not worried....i know how about a LADA rear axels ;D they will be strong as,they made those from tank parts didnt they

[DRFVDR]

I had 2 Lada Nivas they were good little AWD trucks

the CV's were crap

[zarnah]

i had some made up with the same spline but a bigger shaft in my bf5, got a agricultural engineer who ussualy makes pto shafts etc to lathe them up, cost me $700 tho and i wrecked out the car and sent the shell to the scrappy with the bloody things still in it haha

[Guest vf20/21bg5]

 zarnah said:

i had some made up with the same spline but a bigger shaft in my bf5, got a agricultural engineer who ussualy makes pto shafts etc to lathe them up, cost me $700 tho and i wrecked out the car and sent the shell to the scrappy with the bloody things still in it haha

yeah i think its worth priceing up what ive said above, that is unless anyone else comes up with the fact the inner or outer cv stubs and splines do faulter

[Munkvy]

Im yet to break an axle and I limiter launch the rally car all the time and love me some donuts. But I have a friend with another RS rally car and he snapped an axle recently, 4WD, 180wkw and a plate rear diff. So you don't need alot of power to snap axles, just be agressive on the car.

Also I know the R160 diffs are shit and blow pretty easily in a rwd if you like to loose traction. My co-drivers old car blew 7 diffs in a month after he sold it, however that was known to do the odd skid.

If you are sticking with the R160 at least get a plate diff so that the diff survives and you just snap axles instead. Either way, if you plan on making reasonable power and driving the car properly you are going to spend alot of time and money replacing rear end bits I am afraid.

[Guest vf20/21bg5]

 Munkvy said:

Im yet to break an axle and I limiter launch the rally car all the time and love me some donuts. But I have a friend with another RS rally car and he snapped an axle recently, 4WD, 180wkw and a plate rear diff. So you don't need alot of power to snap axles, just be agressive on the car.

Also I know the R160 diffs are s*** and blow pretty easily in a rwd if you like to loose traction. My co-drivers old car blew 7 diffs in a month after he sold it, however that was known to do the odd skid.

If you are sticking with the R160 at least get a plate diff so that the diff survives and you just snap axles instead. Either way, if you plan on making reasonable power and driving the car properly you are going to spend alot of time and money replacing rear end bits I am afraid.

yes its all about how you drive the car as to how things will last and as im a fan of traction to the road not sustained loss of traction ill just wait and see how things go b4 i do any mods, but i do think that the weight of the wagon and the power of the engine will put alot of stress on the axels and the inner cv's, but i do have a spare diff and rear axels waiting incase anyway......

...thanx for all your input and am eagerly awaiting even more experiences from you all on this topic

[driftrex]

never broken a axle or cv in my rwd wrx, and its done its fair share of burnouts, donuts and sideways lol, only had one noisey diff which i changed before it totally blew.

and i believe the car is still on its original cvs/shafts as im the only nz owner from low kms. maybe the genuine cvs make it stronger, not sure.

[Guest vf20/21bg5]

 driftrex said:

never broken a axle or cv in my rwd wrx, and its done its fair share of burnouts, donuts and sideways lol, only had one noisey diff which i changed before it totally blew.

and i believe the car is still on its original cvs/shafts as im the only nz owner from low kms. maybe the genuine cvs make it stronger, not sure.

swap you mine for yours then

[driftrex]

 CP93MM']

[quote name='driftrex said:

never broken a axle or cv in my rwd wrx, and its done its fair share of burnouts, donuts and sideways lol, only had one noisey diff which i changed before it totally blew.

and i believe the car is still on its original cvs/shafts as im the only nz owner from low kms. maybe the genuine cvs make it stronger, not sure.

/quote]swap you mine for yours then

haha think i better stick to what i got, wouldnt wana create more issues for myself