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locked center diff


Pappu1

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with a locked cntr diff and the frint drive shafts removed, a wrx becomes RWD (right.... ??? )

question:

1 - does it "hurt" the front diff to be running in that mode with no axles?

2 - if the front axles are reattached (with the locked cntr diff) what effect coes that have? any exxecive component wear or bad handling?

3 - we all know abt the 4wd drivetrain loss but what sots of loss (lower or same) will the car have with the locked cntr diff and front axles removed?

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1. i dont think so...many people have had this config with no issues

2. should do nothing... when i was rwd i still had front axles and had no extra wear and tear

3. i would say it increases in power, it sure fel that way in my car (butt dyno only)

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 dubbedup said:

1. i dont think so...many people have had this config with no issues

2. should do nothing... when i was rwd i still had front axles and had no extra wear and tear

3. i would say it increases in power, it sure fel that way in my car (butt dyno only)

Pretty much agree. 1 and 3 are about right but as for 2 im sure you would have binding issues when doing u turns very tight corners etc.

Nice simple example hop in a DCCD sti and set the center diff to lock then try drive round corners or do a u turn on any surface that has a little bit of grip ie tarmac/road lol

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my rear is a heavily shimmed up r180 lsd diff so thinking maybe do the next step and get a welded centre and rwd lol..

still thinking... ;)

as for number 2 above - does binding make any other issues?

as my rear does that on tight turns etc like servo forecourt areas

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duddedup must have done it a different way so there is no drive to the front wheels?

marc is thinking just welding it up which would cause it still to be 4wd but fully locked 4wd. and yes that would cause major issues i'm thinking?

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you can not run your front shafts unless you remove the crownwheel from your front diff, basically if you do your car will be 4wd-locked diff and you WILL break stuff on a hard surface like tarseal or concrete, would probably be ok on gravel, been there, done that, thought it would be ok to leave my front shafts in just while putting the car onto a trailer....bang, front diff a big pile of metal. I now have front shafts in but have removed the front crownwheel so there is no connection between the front diff and the rest of the gearbox, the only real problem then is that the front crownwheel actually moves a lot of the gearbox oil around, kinda like a big paddle steamer wheel, and some people say they have problems with the box becomming hard to shift etc after a good hiding but I have never had any problems with that

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 dubbedup said:

sorry i thouhgt this was about rwd, and yep mine wasnt 4wd locked just rwd locked

it is about rwd, and if you have your car running rwd, then you MUST have the front crownwheel removed if you are running front shafts?, or your car will just be 4wd locked diff and break very quickly

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 pl0x said:

yep thats how most people ran it i thought.

you need to plug it up with something, there is a thread somewhere showing what to do?

But leaving front shafts in is a way around needing a cert

Nah you can take front shafts out pre v9 and it wont leak nada. But yep as said leaving front shafts is good way around cert but yes box has to be fully opened and crown wheel removed off the front diff

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 zarnah']

[quote name='dubbedup said:

sorry i thouhgt this was about rwd, and yep mine wasnt 4wd locked just rwd locked

/quote]

it is about rwd, and if you have your car running rwd, then you MUST have the front crownwheel removed if you are running front shafts?, or your car will just be 4wd locked diff and break very quickly

If you take the guts out of the centre diff before you weld it, then it doesn't provide any drive to the front output shaft so you can leave the front axles in and it will still be rwd (thats what dubbedup has). If you just weld up the spider gears without pulling any of the centre diff apart, then you will have a locked centre 4wd which are pigs to drive on tarmac (thats what zarnah has).

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i had the guts taken out of my centre diff and it was welded but there just wasnt enough surface left to weld up and it broke the welds within a day, now i have the spider gears welded up with shitloads of weld and havent had any problems.

i believe the later centre diffs are different and give you more surface area to weld to with the guts out.

i just have my front diff completely removed and plugged the hole with brass frost plugs ;D

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 marc']

[quote name='pl0x said:

yep thats how most people ran it i thought.

you need to plug it up with something, there is a thread somewhere showing what to do?

But leaving front shafts in is a way around needing a cert

/quote]

Nah you can take front shafts out pre v9 and it wont leak nada. But yep as said leaving front shafts is good way around cert but yes box has to be fully opened and crown wheel removed off the front diff

so taking out the front shafts in a v7 sti box will not leak anything?

no need to plug the hole?

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any box that has 'male' stubs poking out for the front axles to mount to wont require plugging the leak.. ;) coz its already sealed.. use some common sense chap.

6mts (and later 5 speeds i think) have female front stubs.. so will spit fluid out... ie you can see right inside the box.

Note though - you can simply by a stub and seal pack from Subaru or PBMS to convert a female box to male.. like i did to run my 6mt with my old GC axles.

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