More RWD questions...different though

[WRXONP]

hey guys so ive finnaly made my mind up about going RWD...

i will not be doing this untill i get a sump baffle though (dont wana run the big end bearing due to oil pickup failure)

so i am NOT wanting to but one of those rediculously expensive high volume sumps...waste of money in my honest opinion..what i am wanting to do is remove my sump and fabricate a sump baffle for it as i beleave 5 litres is enough and with a sump baffle in place it will eliminate the big end from running away from me from oil pressure failure..

so what do i consider when making the baffle??

i beleave it will need to be adequite enough to hold the oil in the sump during cornering etc but also be adequite to allow the oil to still drain into the sump without filling up the block / rotating area??

so if someones made a baffle and it worked succesfully in standard sump can u let me know?

i want to convert it by welding center diff and removing front shafts....i do not see the point in removing crownwheel to leave shafts in...

am wanting to know if anyone has had trouble with the R180 in RWD?? is it alot stronger than a R160?

are the CVs bigger (the part that snaps that goes inside the diff)???

has anyone got actual infomation about welding the center diff other than a pic with no description? Ie wat to do to center diff and what to weld etc?

is solid mounting the diff any good ?

and also whats the best way to do this? machine spacers to replace the rubber bushes?

any good solid info is good as thats wat im after

cheers

[Flash]

Hey, I just fitted a bafffled sump, I got mine from Possums, they are about $200. They work & are alot cheaper then the Winged Group A sump they make & are also found on the Net.

I also was thinking about going RWD but after doing alot of reading on the net on alot off different web sites. My conclusion is any standard WRX rear end does not last long at all & the guys that have no problems (are not breaking parts monthly) have fabricated a larger rear end into there car from a GTR or similler sized diff. There is heaps off info on this on the net just google Rwd subaru WRX. It shows how to do it either way. (The team orange D1 car runs a GTR rear end.)

What I did instead because I hated the factory understeer & torque steer was change the center diff. I have every aftermaket suspension swaybar, coil overs, a-arm brace etc etc, I played around with spring rates wheel alignment settings etc with no luck so thought i would go rwd. Instead i fitted in to my non STI V4 WRX an adjustable center diff from a type R STI, I am still running the higher ratio but i just removed the end diff housing & swapped the center diff the same as if you were to mod it to rwd My car now is 65 35 RWD and i have to soften the rear end up to make it not so sideways. It is perfect no understeer & lots of sideways action. The diff is not even connected to any control unit because with no power it runs with 65% to the rear wheels.

[dubbedup]

if your rwd you wont have enough grip to get oil sloshing side to side and missing the pickup...at least IMO

[Joker]

hang on rwd = less grip and your worried about ya sump?

well not an expert but dont think the two are related very well somehow...

edit : beaten

[WRXONP]

wouldnt being sideway or doing donuts be making the oil go to one side and the pump pick up nothing??

ie high speed on a track the gettting sideways and switching another way would defonatly make the oil go side to side

[Drunkenmonkey]

put kingstars on and keep awd do it right or but a Rwd if you just want to do skids

[Flash]

More grip means more g so more chances off oil starvation.

But also after removing the factory sump it is crap & needs an extra baffle on the top. Good insurance from the big end bearing club & this should be the first mod if you want your engine to live. Plus a fuel pump & modifed fuel pick up

[WRXONP]

well yeah im prety tempted to just get a RB rolling body either a cef or a skyline and it be de regd or whatever and make a motor and get some more drift time in again ;D events like the south auckland one are allgood specially to get some experience in

[GC8E2DD]

It is sustained cornering force that holds the oil away from the pickup. It is grip that generates sustained cornering forces. Make sense?

As 98WRX said, you could chuck in a DCCD centre with no controller. An early one will run at a (fixed!) 65/35 torque split biased to the rear. With no controller, it will require no breakaway force to enable a speed differential between front and rear diffs unlike your viscous one which binds on friction. Assuming you have sufficient traction at the front you'll be doing donuts all day long.

[WRXONP]

 98WRX (PEASANT RACING) said:

More grip means more g so more chances off oil starvation.

But also after removing the factory sump it is crap & needs an extra baffle on the top. Good insurance from the big end bearing club & this should be the first mod if you want your engine to live.

have u seen a car fully oposite lock one way and then switch to oposite lock another way...alot of g forces LOL...it would want to go to one side of the sump

[Flash]

You are both correct because the std sump has a baffle only half way down, as soon as you corner fast half the oil can slosh out in the first second.

& yes I can now do donuts & drift like Ken Block (Yea Boy) ;D

[WRXONP]

i supose 4wd drifting must be pretty awesome haha with the 65/35 and cheap tyres

[Joker]

cars still going the same way as the oil grip vs skid

[WRXONP]

 JoKer said:

cars still going the same way as the oil grip vs skid

on a skid pad at an event the oil would just sit on one side.....

as for the guy with the 200 doller sump baffle...did u get it from possum bourne motorsport

[Joker]

oil will be at the top of the motor via revs (ok maybe not a EJ but most V8's do this) - almost zero forces involved.... motor is usually centre of rotation

[Flash]

We used to run alot of Porsche's with slicks because they were dry sump we had do problems, the new water cooled 911's & boxters (not Turbo,GT-2 & GT-3) are wet sumped if you bolt on slicks to them & try to do targa or track days they will have oil stavation problems with out a sump mod.

We now run Michael Pickens at Western Springs That car is 100% sidways or on 2 wheels all the time.

If that car was not dry sumped that engine would run a bearing on the first lap.

Any high speed corning sidways or straight line can cause problems in your oil system. It all depends on how good the design is & the Subaru one is junk, The Rally cars also all so run baffled sumps because the subaru sump is junk.

[Flash]

& yes I know Brian & the boys at Possums, They have fitted that $200 baffled sump to alot of rally cars like Emma Gilmor's & alot of production cars.

I have been trying for 6 months to get them to make an intermedite sump the price was going to be about $400 & it was going to be like the Group A sump inside but not winged.

They have been too busy to make this but if they get more interst he will do a run off 10.

[WRXONP]

so for 200 does he give u a modified standard sump or do u give him a sump and he modifies it and fits the baffle?

sounds like a good plan i say

[rex-leggy]

fark for $200 id would be into that but even more so for the $400 one .

im sure there would be interest from ten people in this club.

[nickch]

Interest Expressed for the $200 one..

[Flash]

You exchange your old sump & they give you a second hand modifed sump for $200

It has an extra baffle welded in around the top edge. It also has a plastic trap door at the rear. It is a very basic mod that works.

They fit this sump to every engine they do other then the engines that have the flash winged Group A sump & It looks std from the out side.

The $400 sump I wanted them to build was the same as the Group A sump on the inside but with out the winged part as this takes time to do. The Group A sump has alot of Aluminium panels & more trap doors They were also going to weld a Possum badge on it so you could tell what it is. This is still in the pipe line & will be done when they have time.

You could make one your self as I was going too but I could only use my mates engine brace tool for a few days & I know that sump works. I also have alot more other jobs to do like removing sound deading that the dry Ice could not get too,

If you are keen just ring Possums & speak to Brian or Paul.

The $200 sump is off the shelf.

If you want the $400 sump tell them you want the $400 Sump Haydn was asking for.

If they get enough orders they might get around to making 10 sooner rather then later.

Last time i was there they had 11 engines to do & rally cars to fix.

[D-Style]

do they modify the pick up at all?

[Joker]

re: RWD vs Baffled sump opinion ONLY

[WRXONP]

 JoKer']

re: RWD vs Baffled sump opinion ONLY

seems someone has experience....and u seem to be wrong about it?

[quote name='98WRX (PEASANT RACING) said:

We used to run alot of Porsche's with slicks because they were dry sump we had do problems, the new water cooled 911's & boxters (not Turbo,GT-2 & GT-3) are wet sumped if you bolt on slicks to them & try to do targa or track days they will have oil stavation problems with out a sump mod.

b]We now run Michael Pickens at Western Springs That car is 100% sidways or on 2 wheels all the time.

If that car was not dry sumped that engine would run a bearing on the first lap[/b].

Any high speed corning sidways or straight line can cause problems in your oil system. It all depends on how good the design is & the Subaru one is junk, The Rally cars also all so run baffled sumps because the subaru sump is junk.

[WRXONP]

in relation to the RWD though im not going to be going RWD anymore...if anything ill be going to the 65/35 split...

but im deffonatly keen on a 200 sump baffle with trap door ill be getting one asap after my next few mods that are lined up to go