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Dumb Question Thread!


Jambun

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 Timmah said:
Just use brake caliper paint from Supercheap/Repco.

Sweet. Will pick some up when I do the pads.

Any recommendations for front pads? I'm looking at BnT ones, but not sure of quality (would prefer BnT over repco/supercheap). Not looking for high performance/price.

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 Marky said:
Thoughts on best place to take wastegate feed and why? Off the nipple on the compressor housing or better to use something post intercooler?

So! At the end of the day it doesn't really matter, but it depends on how you're doing boost control and what you're referencing it to.

If you are purely using the wastegate spring for boost control and you take it from the compressor housing you will get lower net boost at the intake ports (which is where it actually matters) than if you took it off, say, the intake manifold.

If you have some sort of boost control in there, it's more important where that gets its boost reference from, and you may as well go off the compressor cover.

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Ok guys really dumb question here.

I am looking at swapping the EJ20 from my 1999 Legacy B4 sedan, as it has a knock while cold which sounds like mean piston slap.

My question is, I want to convert from twin to single turbo at some point, what engine would be easiest to bolt in? Also I've seen that people have wiring issues, so is the engine loom part of the body loom? Not searching for huge power, as I've got a toy car already and this is my daily haha.

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 ZeroNZ']Ok guys really dumb question here.

I am looking at swapping the EJ20 from my 1999 Legacy B4 sedan, as it has a knock while cold which sounds like mean piston slap.

My question is, I want to convert from twin to single turbo at some point, what engine would be easiest to bolt in? Also I've seen that people have wiring issues, so is the engine loom part of the body loom? Not searching for huge power, as I've got a toy car already and this is my daily haha.

[quote name='megamac said:

Any EJ20 bolts in lol. Just replace with a recon TT motor?

You will need a BE/BH rev A or Rev B (98-00) engine, both running at 8.5:1cr. Compression bumps up from rev C onwards so it would ping it's tits off running on your original ECU.

Or if going to single turbo straight away, a complete version 5/6 WRX engine or complete version 5/6 STI engine will bolt straight in with the matching ECU. You just need to swap a few pins at the ECU, all covered in the single turbo threads on here.

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So in the middle of my single turbo conversion - just wondering how the PCV setup is supposed to run?

I assume the valve on the back of the inlet + the crank breather are both linked together then connected up pre-turbo? Then the same deal for the breathers on the heads / rocker covers?

Which makes me wonder, would I be alright to use pieces of hose and T pieces to link all four together then up to the intake pipe and block the other outlet off ? May seem like a stupid question but i'd rather run hoses than the factory plastic type ones under the manifold - trying to get a reasonably clean looking engine bay.

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Normally the intake pipe will have 2 ports on it for the breather system. Both head breathers join together and feed into one intake pipe port. Then the crankcase breather normally splits (T piece), one side to the TB's PCV valve and the other split goes to the other intake pipe port. I used 12mm black silicone hose and gates automotive 1/2" T pieces.

Joining both the crank and head breathers together can restrict the system too much and pressurise the block, especially on a higher km engine. Pumping 2L of oil out the dipstick hole in my case. :)

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 Rosssub said:

Joining both the crank and head breathers together can restrict the system too much and pressurise the block, especially on a higher km engine. Pumping 2L of oil out the dipstick hole in my case. :)

Righto then - looks like i'll use my original hose idea but use both ports on the intake pipe - unsure of how many km are on this motor.

Cheers!

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would a car running 380cc grey top injectors start and run on a car running a version 3 3plug 6s STI ecu?.

My gtb has just been converted and turns out the motor didnt have yellow top 440cc injectors in it yet it was still running a GTB 4G 3plug ecu it would stutter on boost but it would run ok.

It is running an orange afm.

currently converted it will run and idle on the 4G GTB ecu fine. but as soon as i plug the STI 6s in its hard to start and wont idle. I know that it should be running yellow 440cc sti injectors but just seems weird the 4G will work fine..

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 sobanoodle said:
Pretty sure those are Advan rims (or a copy from Rota - they seem to be copying every single Japanese rim)

After a zoom at it I notice it is white wheel with blue stripe.

I thought it is Advan RG but found out the advan rg only has 6 spokes. Then the closest one I can found is Konig Forward, but the konig one only come in White with Pink stripe or Black with red stripe so I have no idea what is that now

Another question:

My WRX has 17x7.5 wheel, the ideal tire would be 225/45/17 but I found some good used 215/45/17 tires on trademe. Is there any effect except the different in speedo if I put those 215 on my wheel? If I use the 215, the tire height would be about 24.6'', 0.4'' different from the stock height

Edited by pmkhoi
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 Marky said:
Only difference is in the speedo accuracy

There are calculators online to tell you exactly how much different

Re the colour scheme, have you heard of paint

The speedo accuracy is fine for me but I'm worry about the grip then, 215 should be less grip than 225 but I don't know if it is a big difference or not.g

Yeah I thought he/she might repaint it but I assume for this type of car, the owner took the konig black/red wheel. If I was that guy, I wouldn't bother to paint rim/stripe with different color, just paint the whole wheel to white imo.

But if you guys can't find any wheel look similar to it so I assume it should be the Konig then

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