Dumb Question Thread!

[Marky]

 Divine said:

In my Legacy BE5D, I put my foot down and as soon as the primary hits like 8 psi, the car starts lurching and won't gain any more power. Driving without boost runs normally. Whenever I load the engine up, just lurches and won't gain power.

Just had 1 coil pack replaced, would changing spark plugs fix this? They've been in there for at least 40,000 k's This started once a coil pack gave out, and was replaced with a 2nd hand one.

I can't drive up hills

It will fix it if it's the problem

I doubt it's the problem to be fair but does no harm to do it

[Divine]

 Marky said:

It will fix it if it's the problem

I doubt it's the problem to be fair but does no harm to do it

Have any other ideas? It gets up to 10 psi very quickly then does this lurch. My old WRX did this when it was overboosting.

[Andy_Mac]

So it lurches only when you give it the beans after, say, 4000rpm? Or does it right down low too?

[Marky]

Mine behaves like that if it's in limp mode, for what it's worth. If its a real hard, very repeatable "cut" rather than a misfire which should be a bit more random

Just turn it off and on again (like, the battery off and on)

Normally I'd say AFM or boost leak type things - tho yours has just been apart the other week hasnt it

[McDoof]

My guess would be AFM too. Had that on my rev A. Although it would fire up a CEL at the same time. The other possibility is bad fuel.

[pedro]

 ADIKT said:

How much is a STI 6spd NON dccd gearbox worth?

$1000 >>>> $1500..

[ADIKT]

 pedro said:

$1000 >>>> $1500..

LOL at the $2800 one on trademe

[Guest]

2-2.5k or cheap/hot/need a sale 1.5k.

[Divine]

 Andy_Mac said:

So it lurches only when you give it the beans after, say, 4000rpm? Or does it right down low too?

Down low too, once the engine is loaded up.

Will leave battery unplugged in case it's in limp mode. It's only had a coilpack replaced and that's it.

[hijacka]

 evowrx said:

2-2.5k or cheap/hot/need a sale 1.5k.

Nah not anymore, below 1000 for quick sale 1500 for standard price would be about right for 6 speed with shifter

Dccd 2500-3500 depending on condition and what it comes with.

[Andy_Mac]

Damn 2500 for a 6mt DCCD box would be mint. Would love to be able to have a play with that. Not really needed but would like it either way

[hijacka]

 Andy_Mac said:

Damn 2500 for a 6mt DCCD box would be mint. Would love to be able to have a play with that. Not really needed but would like it either way

It happens!

The joys of v7&v8 now becoming old

I seen a v7 spec c dccd 6 speed go on tm for 2800 not to long ago. I picked up a rolled v3sti gc8 off trademe about 3 years ago for 2g had v8 sti box and was a runner.

Its the waiting game though and you have to be quick!

[Andy_Mac]

Are the legacy 6mt cases any different to the sti ones? Suppose its almost impossible to find a dccd without the whole box. Since i'm 90% certain my viscous centre is on the way out

[McDoof]

AFAIK the post facelift box is the same as the STI box inside and out. The pre facelift box has slightly different ratios with a longer 6th gear (only 3.0R because the GTB has a 5 speed) and the gears are cut differently for smoother engagement.

[patrickc22]

Looking at fmic for the bh5 is 600×300 good size?

[Guest]

 patrickc22 said:

Looking at fmic for the bh5 is 600×300 good size?

Probably more like 600x200 or 500x200. Depends how much of a misterhackalot you are.

[Andy_Mac]

Marky's is 600x280. But he is a misterhackalot

[Marky]

If in doubt, a jigsaw will fix all

600x280 will fit in behind the bumper, just. Your foglights won't survive either. 500 wide will look a bit silly cause it's smaller than the opening

I think my last one had a 600x300 and it fitted fine, since you have that bottom lip on yours it'll be sweeeeeet

That said the bumper reinforcing bar might not like it, better to maybe go wider but shorter if given the choice. The top 100mm of it is obscured by the bumper anyway. You need to trim away a fair bit of material but nothing drastic

Have a look at how AJT did his, could be an idea? Wish I'd done mine the same, it's very subtle

[Andy_Mac]

Speaking of front mounts, whats the better option for piping to use in terms of heat retention, weight, cost, ease of welding? Think aluminium would be better, correct?

Been told arc welders aren't the best for this kind of stuff but thinking about getting some practice in with the work one and hacking something together myself. Or atleast, trying, failing, and getting it done by someone with a proper clue

[patrickc22]

What problems would I running into with having the lip might go with 600x 280

What about thickness I am looking at having a oil cooler but might have that in the drivers gard

[boon]

 Andy_Mac said:

Speaking of front mounts, whats the better option for piping to use in terms of heat retention, weight, cost, ease of welding? Think aluminium would be better, correct?

Been told arc welders aren't the best for this kind of stuff but thinking about getting some practice in with the work one and hacking something together myself. Or atleast, trying, failing, and getting it done by someone with a proper clue

Alloy, if only so it doesn't go rusty on you.

You really need an AC tig to do it nicely, if you want to save money on fabrication I suppose you could tack the pieces together with an arc then take it to someone with a tig to get the welds finished off?

[Guest]

Alu i just insul taped the joins with 10mm open so can see the seam.

[ADIKT]

How much would a centre diff for a 6speed cost? Where to buy?

[McDoof]

http://forum.liberty.asn.au/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=31089&start=45

DIY?

[Andy_Mac]

Been thinking about that too since mines showing some periodic issues. Won't be very practical to ship over there and did ask him about it and he's sharing the basics but there are alot of things he's not putting up there so that people don't just go use his info and do it themselves. Its more of a thread publicising what he's doing than a full blown DIY how to.