Dumb Question Thread!

[Marky]

So give it back to redline to get fixed, end of story

The more you fck with it the more chance they'll decline a warranty fix

Those SSQV valves are specifically meant to be impossible to leak, they get held closed by boost pressure, unless the diaphragm has split (I'm pretty sure they have one... maybe, it's been a while)

[pmkhoi]

Can't do it as it was more than a year ago, bought it around August last year man so it ran out of warranty now. Will try to contact them to see if they can fix it or not

[boon]

 Andy_Mac said:

So those ones i had didn't fix your problem?

Nope At some point I'll get it put on a SSM and see what that says... but for now I just deal with it throwing a code every now and then.

[Andy_Mac]

That sucks. Surely one of the welly peeps has a tactrix you could borrow. Should be able to give individual wheel speeds using that

[SpeedySub]

Ok, changing front pads tomorrow, I have read the how to bleed brakes, unless I have missed something can I only bleed fronts or do I need to do all four?

[boon]

 Andy_Mac said:

That sucks. Surely one of the welly peeps has a tactrix you could borrow. Should be able to give individual wheel speeds using that

It's all good, I just ordered a cheap-o VAG-COM cable and I'll hook up FreeSSM and see what the code is. I have the FSM somewhere so I can just look it up in there. I have a sneaky feeling it's a open/closed circuit fault rather than a bad signal thing as sometimes it'll throw the code while I'm sitting at the lights. Once I know which corner it is I'll just trace the loom until I find the issue.

[Rosssub]

 SpeedySub said:

Ok, changing front pads tomorrow, I have read the how to bleed brakes, unless I have missed something can I only bleed fronts or do I need to do all four?

Don't need to bleed them to change the pads, unless you're doing a fluid change or they're spongy. But need to bleed all four if you are. Front right, rear left, front left then rear right.

[Rosssub]

 pmkhoi']My HKS SSQV BOV was leaking so I just replaced the stock bov. Is it possible to fix the leaking for HKS BOV? If yes, can I DIY or how much to get it fix?

And yes I know the stock bov is good enough but sometimes miss the sound so just wondering if I can still fix it or I should get the new one as the fixing cost is not worth it.

Got it from redline performance more than a year ago so it seems genuine. I replaced the bov first to see if the leak from the bov or the turbo, after that it ran smooth so don't have time to check the leaking on bov yet. No idea about this stuff so how can I check where the leaking coming from? Symptom was the pssssh sound when the rev go higher than 2.5k (my leg still on the pedal), the turbo still working but not as fast as usual, no leaking at idle

[quote name='pmkhoi said:

Can't do it as it was more than a year ago, bought it around August last year man so it ran out of warranty now. Will try to contact them to see if they can fix it or not

Is it an adjustable HKS, with the nut/bolt on the rear of it?

To test it use either a vacuum pump, or air compressor connected to the BOV vac port. It should hold 20in/hg of vac or 15psi of pressure. Or just suck on the hose as much as you can, then block the hose with your tongue. Again it should hold vac until you release it.

[patrickc22]

 Rosssub said:

Put the front wheels up on ramps or blocks of wood. Then get someone to turn the steering wheel side to side, while you lay under the car listening/looking for play. Could be the inner rack end where the split boot was:

http://clubsub.org.nz/forum/showthread.php?46152-inner-rack-joint&highlight=rack+ends

Could be a worn out bush that holds the steering rack to the chassis. Could be an outer tie rod end or ball joint. Or worn front/rear bush on the lower A-arm:

http://clubsub.org.nz/forum/showthread.php?40802-Rosssub-s-Suspension-Bush-Upgrade/page2

Accordingto my wof guy it's play in the right rack end and a little in the left

[Skatieguy]

So I've just finished taking my GT-B for a 40 minute drive. The water temp gauge "randomly" jumps up, and randomly climbs up a few notches while driving, slowly going back down to normal temp (times seemed to vary), wasnt until 3/4 of the way through the drive it the temp first jumped on the gauge. Also driving up a big hill near my house will get to about 3/4 temp driving slowly, last time I drove it up there nearly cooked it according to the gauge. Is this something that would happen if it had a blown head gasket? There's no oil in the water or vice-verse, no smoke/steam coming out the exhaust. However the header tank gets lots of tiny bubbles/frothy type with the cap off, and the overflow bottle gets bubbles this size pictured below:

*Yes I'm aware the water is incredibly yuck.

Thoughts? BHG or something else?

[Rosssub]

Most likely BHG unfortunately. Guessing you haven't been running antifreeze (anti corrosive) for a while now.

[Nachoooo]

 Rosssub said:

Most likely BHG unfortunately. Guessing you haven't been running antifreeze (anti corrosive) for a while now.

Sorry to hijack this post.

What's the best way to remove corrosion affected coolant from the system? And should attention be paid to any components in the cooling system that could be largely damaged by corrosion?

[Rosssub]

Drain it, then flush it through with the garden hose. Then top it up with water, warm the car up so the clean water circulates then let it cool down. Then drain again, flush, fill, warm up, cool down and drain. Keep repeating until it's as clean as possible, then top up with antifreeze and distilled/demineralised water.

Not much you can do for any corrosion damage that's already done. But the antifreeze should stop it getting any worse.

Edited October 10, 2015 by Rosssub

[Skatieguy]

No she'd been parked up for 9 or so months before I bought it and still been mainly sitting since then. Done 150km in about a year (assuming parked up since rego on hold). If what's been done to it were true I would imagine it was straight water since the heads were reconned and since the recon was just parked up so no anti freeze added.

I'll find out if they're blown when we strip out all the good bits. Will leave it parked up again now until she needs moving.

[pmkhoi]

 Rosssub said:

Is it an adjustable HKS, with the nut/bolt on the rear of it?

To test it use either a vacuum pump, or air compressor connected to the BOV vac port. It should hold 20in/hg of vac or 15psi of pressure. Or just suck on the hose as much as you can, then block the hose with your tongue. Again it should hold vac until you release it.

Yeah it a HKS SSQV 4 BOV but I don't think it's a adjustable one. As I know, the HKS BOV v1 is adjustable but they make it non-adjustable from v2. Moved to Auckland CBD with no garage so sold all my tools. Probably I'll ask my mate to test it sometime this week.

[Marky]

Which mount/s should I be looking at for harshness with on and off the throttle?

Bit of a thump with a sudden back off, if that makes sense. Or a real hard shift I get a bit of thump from gearboxy region (I am assuming I have answered my own question actually). Normal use it's fine

Second question - best/cheapest/most ghetto way to take all the slop out of the gearshift, it's pretty good compared to most (we're not talking rowing in a box of marbles RS legacy spec) but I'd like to get closer to the rifle-bolt/type r honda-with-brass-bushes solid I prefer

[evljat]

I had new OEM u-joint bushes and Cobb front and rear shifter bushes on one of my previous cars. It wasn't cheap, cost around $200 all up but there was no front to back play and a only a little side to side. Probably my favourite modification. It still didn't feel as smooth as a Honda though.

[Percy]

 Marky said:

Which mount/s should I be looking at for harshness with on and off the throttle?

Bit of a thump with a sudden back off, if that makes sense. Or a real hard shift I get a bit of thump from gearboxy region (I am assuming I have answered my own question actually). Normal use it's fine

Second question - best/cheapest/most ghetto way to take all the slop out of the gearshift, it's pretty good compared to most (we're not talking rowing in a box of marbles RS legacy spec) but I'd like to get closer to the rifle-bolt/type r honda-with-brass-bushes solid I prefer

A broken rubber one, hur hur!

Ahem, I used a plastic bush and a shoulder bolt I had lying around from my old work, and just hacked/turned the bush down to fit with a file and a drill.

Excedingly ghetto, but it worked!

It was to replace the pinned on one in the linkage under the car, the big ass round bush at the gearbox end I chucked a Superpro bush in, the funky square one at the lever end on the chassis I just wrapped the end of the shaft with shrink wrap until it was tight again.

[McDoof]

 Marky said:

Which mount/s should I be looking at for harshness with on and off the throttle?

Bit of a thump with a sudden back off, if that makes sense. Or a real hard shift I get a bit of thump from gearboxy region (I am assuming I have answered my own question actually). Normal use it's fine

Possibly the engine pitch stop mount bushings?

[boon]

 Marky said:

Which mount/s should I be looking at for harshness with on and off the throttle?

Bit of a thump with a sudden back off, if that makes sense. Or a real hard shift I get a bit of thump from gearboxy region (I am assuming I have answered my own question actually). Normal use it's fine

Rear diff thump, transmitted through driveline?

[McDoof]

Does anyone know where to get muffler packing material in Auckland. I am going to try and build some custom mufflers from an existing set, but it seems to be quite hard to get the right kind of fibreglass packing and steel wool.

[boon]

Try a truck parts place or marine workshop?

[McDoof]

 boon said:

Try a truck parts place or marine workshop?

Chur

[Marky]

 boon said:

Rear diff thump, transmitted through driveline?

Have narrowed it down a little, it's the sort of thump like if you're in traffic in first gear (for example), it makes it want to bunny hop a bit when you button off. Or if in gear, and you take foot off loud pedal, wait half a second, you get a mild bump

It's not severe by any stretch, more just something I know can be removed, and now that I've noticed it it drives me semi mental

[scratch]

rear gearbox mount? I had this problem in my Forester replace mount and it sorted it out