F**KING AFTERMARKET S**T

[EJ20T]

In the scheme of things a alloy radiator has little effect on the over all look of your car, wheels on the other hand have a huge effect. If the stock one is fine and you want to dress up your engine why not consider some of the things out of japan like those radiator cover panels etc, they make things look better and serve some purpose

[QRAF]

go alloy just make sure you spend the money and get a good one, i went factory and got a zerosports diversion plate as i just didn't have to coin to get a alloy one.

I don't think you'll notice any gains but your engine bay will have some shiny bits.

[Pelvin]

Im all about the shiney bits

[rskikn]

i had the same problem with mine and it was from sta parts the fans fitted mint just had a bit o trouble with top hose but that was only cos of the fatter after market hoses i was using.. i shoved a screw driver in the end of it and bent it up a little so i could get both the lines on lol.. worked fine.. its been in there for 2 years.. just make sure you earth the radiator as well.. i up graded mine to full alloy cos the factory ones kept splitin open..

[Pelvin]

How you mean earth?

[ADIKT]

 rskikn said:

i had the same problem with mine and it was from sta parts the fans fitted mint just had a bit o trouble with top hose but that was only cos of the fatter after market hoses i was using.. i shoved a screw driver in the end of it and bent it up a little so i could get both the lines on lol.. worked fine.. its been in there for 2 years.. just make sure you earth the radiator as well.. i up graded mine to full alloy cos the factory ones kept splitin open..

What does earthing a radiator change?

[rskikn]

 Pelvin said:

How you mean earth?

like an earth strap.. from rad to chassis..

[rskikn]

 ADIKT']

[quote name='rskikn said:

i had the same problem with mine and it was from sta parts the fans fitted mint just had a bit o trouble with top hose but that was only cos of the fatter after market hoses i was using.. i shoved a screw driver in the end of it and bent it up a little so i could get both the lines on lol.. worked fine.. its been in there for 2 years.. just make sure you earth the radiator as well.. i up graded mine to full alloy cos the factory ones kept splitin open..

/quote]

What does earthing a radiator change?

sum thin to do with chemical reaction cos there full alloy.. thats wat the old guy at trevor morris radiators told me.. it dont hurt to do it so i did it..

[QRAF]

can't hurt i guess

[subieboy]

 rskikn']

[quote name='rskikn said:

i had the same problem with mine and it was from sta parts the fans fitted mint just had a bit o trouble with top hose but that was only cos of the fatter after market hoses i was using.. i shoved a screw driver in the end of it and bent it up a little so i could get both the lines on lol.. worked fine.. its been in there for 2 years.. just make sure you earth the radiator as well.. i up graded mine to full alloy cos the factory ones kept splitin open..

/quote]

What does earthing a radiator change?

sum thin to do with chemical reaction cos there full alloy.. thats wat the old guy at trevor morris radiators told me.. it dont hurt to do it so i did it..

Electrolysis... It kills the radiator and the engine block essentially

http://www.sancarlosradiator.com/electrolysis.htm

 

What is electrolysis and why is it a problem in an automotive cooling system?

Lets start by trying to understand electrolysis as it pertains to automobiles. Electrolysis is a destructive force that packs enormous potential to damage not just cooling system components, but any aluminum engine part that has contact with the coolant. The coolant acts as both the catalyst and as the conductor, just like the electrolyte in a battery. The "electrodes" mentioned in the above definition are the aluminum components in the cooling system (like the plates in a battery). The "electrochemical process" mentioned is the aluminum particle (ion) movement, such that leaks (thinning of wall surface) occur. When enough ions have moved, this results in a failure (leak) typically in the radiator or heater due to the thickness (read thinness) of the tube wall surface. A thicker surface (like an aluminum casting) is not more resistant to electrolysis, but is not as likely to leak because it is thicker. However these thicker surfaces may leak anyway if the electrolysis occurs at a gasket surface. Generally you won't know you have an electrolysis problem unless you have (a series of) unexplained leaks. However, to add yet another factor, in some parts of the country (southwest), electrolysis is much more prevalent than others.

[mattapo]

I got my alloy one from A1 radiators and so have lost of friends, no problems with any of theres. they sell online to.

[dimin]

My end tank cracked on my radiator as they do with age, was gonna get one of these redline ones but glad I didnt now !!

Instead got stock one reconned, for a lot cheaper and at least it no stuffing round to get it to fit.

Reminds me of an M&H down pipe I bought for my STi coupe, was told it was a 'bolt on', shit it was so far from bolt on it wasnt funny. Nothing lined up, it was hard up on the steering knuckle, hard up to gearbox crossmember, flange didnt line up on the turbo studs, etc what a shocker. Took it back for a refund and vowed never to get cheap rubbish parts like that ever again ! Proper JDM branded stuff or custom fabricated is the only way IMO.

[WRXONP]

I've had heaps of fenix alloy triple core radiators and never had leak problems. are the cheap ones leaking at the welds ? to check electrolisis you run the motor and earth ya multi meter and put the other lead in the coolant. you shouldn't have electolisis. I've seen piston liners eaten right through and allot of other parts destroyed from electrolisis

[Old Skool Subbie]

Some cases its actually cheaper to get a custom alloy raditor made than get the original brand new replacement.

this was a few years ago...

But for a oem raditor it was going to cost $700. Infact that price mite had just been the price for a replacement plastic tank?

I found a place that would do a custom raditor for a reasonal price. Also did check out A1 as well.

[gazzy2000]

i got an after market up pipe, the ports (pipe to turbo) didnt line up cost an extra $50 to get it port matched

[Shale]

Oh, this sounds familiar.

I know a certain family that's on their 8th radiator across 3-odd Subarus now. Several blown stock ones and several blown alloy ones later, the consensus is stick with stock and keep an eye on 'em.

Alloy aftermarket: $350

New from Winger: $1400

One must ask why.

Highbrook have a radiator repair place...they seem to have done a jolly good job on my ancient Legacy rad I'd only ever go repaired stock.

[D-Style]

End of day, you get what you pay for, and do you research before you buy. But so hard to find good stuff now days with all the Chinese shit out there now.

[nt_a_foz]

I had a redline one in mine and i had thesmae issue, i did what Tony said and tweaked it across, was still tight but it did the job in the time i had it.. replaced mine due to split end tanks which as we all know is common in older subis....

[Pelvin]

Well so much for redlines so called awesome customer service, not heard back yet

[nt_a_foz]

they used to be good when leo/gtrice used to work in aux branch...duno how flash they are now though

[Jammasta]

 nt_a_foz said:

they used to be good when leo/gtrice used to work in aux branch...duno how flash they are now though

HahaHhahHhHAhahaha. Funny Isht.

[nt_a_foz]

 TURTLE']

[quote name='nt_a_foz said:

they used to be good when leo/gtrice used to work in aux branch...duno how flash they are now though

/quote]HahaHhahHhHAhahaha. Funny Isht.

ok il rephrase that lol...leo would at least sort shit out when he was there..by the sounds of it the guy now is a plonker...